I did my best Google-foo and couldn't really find anything on "stag horning"

I can't imagine that this would be related to drought. We have had a significant amount of rainfall here in the Chicago land area over the past few months

Can you visably see the rootflare? If not, find it and post a pic of what you found.

The rootflare is a good start and what did the roots look like when planted? The affects of girdling roots might not show up for a few years. Another long shot would be if you had any late frosts, but since this was last to leaf out, I'm guessing a root issue hindering water to the top.

tj

How cold did it get over the winter? What side is it open to? I guessing it's on the west side, you get strong NW winds in winter, plus you got an exceptional storm this year, with very high winds that continued after the snow stopped. In short, it looks like winter damage to me. As for the bark, my PB is currently peeling, and yours looks pretty normal. Still check the root flare as suggested by others. Lose the straps and remove the white tag on the branch, and kill the grass back from the trunk. NONE of these are helping your tree at this point. Prune out the dead wood.

Arktrees

Hard to tell from the pics, but how has the regrowth been. Here in Mpls I get some dieback every once in a while, but regrowth is always vigorous (1-2'). If you are not seeing this, I would think you have other issues besides winter injury.

This tree was a container grown tree. If I recall, the roots were slightly potbound/rootbound. With all my trees/plants, I make a few vertical cuts into the soil mass before firmly teasing the roots outward by hand.

I have done this with all 7 trees that I've planted and they all appear to be doing just fine.

This tree is on the northwest of my lot and we do get cold, windy weather in the winter.

I keep the straps on due to the strong winds. If I don't keep the straps on, the trees will be blown on an angle (I've learned my lesson). I understand that I should remove the white tag, but I don't see how that could be affecting it. The tag is NOT tight and I've left all the tags on my trees to help me remember which ones they are. At this point, I've memorized them and could take them off, just dont see how that would affect it.

I'll be honest, with a wife, 3 active kids, a new house, a new job, I haven't had the time to measure the trees and keep up with their growth pattern as much as I would like. When planting, I did perform my due diligence, and planted the best that I read how to. The majority of what I've planted is doing very well. It's been a few years, but I believe that I was very careful when planting this tree as it is my favorite of everything I've planted.

Below are some pictures of the root flare. If I need to go deeper, please let me know and I will.

Ok, so I decided to go a bit deeper to see the roots. There is one very strong root on the west side of the tree, but I don't see one on the west side of the tree. Now I didn't go too deep, but below are pictures of what I see near the surface.

Just to the east of this tree is the underground pipes that carry the sump pump water to the storm drain the back of my yard. Perhaps the roots are attracted to it?

There does appear to be some girdling going on. Is there anything I can do about it?

These pictures are taken as I walk around the tree.

The strong root is on the EAST side of the tree. There does not appear to be a strong root on the WEST side (without digging deeper).

Is this the problem? If so, what can I do about it?

What is that round thing surrounding the plant about a foot out?

It appears your tree has a lot of girdling beneath the trunk. The flare of the roots isn't extending outwards, instead it is circling just below the trunk. That's the casual agent I'm quite sure.

When anyone sees knobby growth under the trunk it can be assumed the roots are girdling/circling. That's gonna be the problem I believe and at this point in time, it's only a matter of, time, until it fails.

Anyone else concur?

Dax

Oh, that thing is a soaker hose! Hopefully you don't use that anymore!

You may have to dig that tree up as soon as the ground thaws next year and bareroot to correct encircling. You might lose the tree but you're better off giving it a chance.

The round thing surrounding the tree about a foot out is a tree soaker hose (as seen in the example below):

Why would I not want to use the soaker hose? I've read that you should water your trees once a week. This is the method I use.

I agree with Dax and Whaas. The "knobby growth under the trunk" is what your last pic on 7/9 showed.

tj

If your tree is 3 years old you need to encourage root growth outside the dripline of the tree. With a soaker hose only a foot out your're creating an environment in which the roots will want to grow in that area.

Sorry but you are actually encouraging encircling roots with that watering method at this point.

Thanks for everyone's help so far!

The last picture on 7/9 only shows knobby growth under the trunk on one side of the trunk. The other 3 sides appear to have very large roots growing out in a straight line.

I understand what everyone is saying about the soaker hoses creating an environment that encourages circling roots. What method should I use to water the trees? Should I have a drip hose on the perimeter of the dripline?

I don't have runoff (or create a moat to avoid runoff) so I flood/soak the area so it expands throughout and beyond the rootball. I only do this for the first couple years until its established. Otherwise if there is drought I'll still use the same method but move the hose to various areas within and just outside the dripline (for juvenile trees). OR I created a contraption that has three 10' extensions coming off the main hose, that way I drop and walk.

I've never watered a mature tree before.

I use one of the soaker bulbs in the link below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Soaker bulb

I have a soaker bulb... should i just put it outside the drip line?

Depending on your flow, run-off and if water is needed its definitely an option.

You'll still have to address the roots in spring as soon as the soil thaws.

Root flare. You are getting there but it looks like the damage to this tree was done at the nursery. Those twisted compressed circling roots are good evidence that this tree spent too long in a small pot. I would not be surprised if this is not the real root flare, but adventitious rooting that grew above the real root flare. As for fertilizer, fertilizer does not cure tree problems but only makes healthy trees grow faster. Don't ever fertilize a stressed tree unless this is the cause of the problem which I highly doubt here.

atjag's post #7 appears to show a rootflare.

I'm not sure how I can address the roots. It is not like the roots are flexible wires that I can bend and shape at will. Some of these roots are pretty thick.

Not really much you can do at this point. The damage was done in the nursery a long time ago. I think I see the original root collar in that last picture. Just keep the soil as low as possible and if any roots start to strangle the stem, cut them off. Hope for the best and if the tree does recover you can cut off more offending roots one at a time. Think of it as a learning experience and next time you buy plants look at the roots as well as the top.