I leave my cannas in the ground until after a hard frost, then dig them, shake off dirt and dry them for a day or two in a warm, dry place out of direct sun. Store them in peat moss at approx. 45-50 degrees. Check them occasionally, if they appear to be shriveling, mist them lightly. As far as saving caladiums and begonias I can only tell you what I've read. Perhaps someone else can chime in. I believe both can be dug, potted and grown as houseplants, To store bulbs, I THINK you dig them before a frost, dry them several days, trim leaves and stems off, store in dry peat. Begonias can be stored at 45-50 degrees. Caladiums like it much warmer and should be stored at 65 to 70 degrees.

Begonias need a light frost - the tops have to die back, but you don't want the corms to freeze hard. Same with glads etc. Cannas much the same. I use a bag of sawdust treated with sulphur powder and keep it in a chilly but not freezing closet.

-Marie

Hay, Marie; where do you find a chilly but not freezing closet? My basement is too warm and garage could be freezing for a few days in the dead winter. Otherwise I would love to grow some more tender perenials.

Any suggestions? Thanks.

Ming

Ming, our bedroom is upstairs and the closet is on an outside wall that is only a little insulated right next to the uninsulated attic. It was a lucky find for me as I hunted the entire house the first year and then realized, one VERY brisk morning, that my clothes were rather chilly :) but there was no frost or evidence of freezing in the closet so I tried it and it was perfect!
-Marie

Caladiums should be dug before the hard frost- left to dry out a bit before storing- removing leaves and stems, all to prevent rot- and kept warmer than most overwintered tubers. I am still trying to find the best place for them in my house which is kept pretty cool through the winter. I think the most important thing for these is that the are susceptible to rot- so I try not to let them touch each other during storage. I have used crumpled paper inside paper bags- and have looked in on them every once in a while to make sure they are neither rotting away or drying out.
Good advice was given with the cannas- I do not clean real well- nor divide any stored tubers till spring just before planting time. The cannas can be started early like dahlias- indoors a few weeks before frost date- if you can give them both warmth and light- otherwise, just plant out after frost date.
Caladiums on the other hand need heat to get them going in the spring! I have tried to start mine early by using a heating pad under the tray of pots. Some respond to this- and others, I have found, will just wait till July to get going.
Ming, if you have an attic- that is insulated but not heated, you could try to overwinter some tubers there- although- it still might get too cold. Out side corner walls- especially on the north side of the house- or an inside wall of an attached garage- or a cold unheated basement floor are the best bets.

Julie

Julie and Marie, you've just given me an idea too, thanks!! This new house is a split level with a closet on the basement level underneath the stairs that go up from the entrance. If you go to the back of the closet you can turn left and get back in the corner under the front entry. It would be surrounded by closet area on both sides and against the outside front wall of the house. I don't have any tender bulbs this year, but I might just stick a thermometer down there during the winter and check now and then to see what temp it maintains.

I have had zero luck storing cannas in peatmoss in the basement. This year I am going to let them die back, then put them in pots with soil like I do my dahlias to see if that works.

I read somewhere that bulbs should be dusted with sulfer or something like that, to help deter rot. Does anyone here do that? And if so, what is the name of the product, so I can pick some up on my next trip to town?

Jenny P

Hey there Jenny-
I use a powdered sulfer product mixed into water to dip the dahlia tubers before wrapping tightly in saran wrap and putting into a paper lined container on the cold basement floor. I do not do this for cannas. They get the dirt knocked off of them and put into a paper lined container with the wrapped dahlias in top. This works for all but the newer orange stripy tropicanna. I only know that one to survive by growing on in the house.
I picked up my container at Bachmans a few years ago- you could try a feed type farmer supply store- as this "Old School" anti fungal treatment is common "up on the farm". It is powdered Sulfer- and you will need a mask and you will need to dispose properly...
This way to store has changed my percentages from 0 to 95% viable dahlia bulbs come spring.
Best of luck!

Julie

Thanks Julie
I don't have any dahlias, just a couple elephant ears, 3 begonias and a couple Canna lilies. But I love all of them! And want to try to over winter them.

Jenny P

Thanks Marie and Julie for the suggestions. I suppose for me the best choice might be to leave them by the garage's inner wall and watch out for bitter cold forecast, then take inside during that period. Also, think about it, I do have a "4 seasons" porch that is never warmer than 55F in winter. Would that work?

Ming