Peat vs. Peat moss-is there a difference??
Giovanna_gal
17 years ago
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tapla
17 years agosocks
17 years agoRelated Discussions
Need help choosing paint color
Comments (115)Hi! My husband and I bought a very similar looking house 7 months ago...it's an orangy brick color...blues compliment the orange, I'm sure you know that. We painted the door "Deep Sea Diving" by Valspar, and absolutely love it! We have gotten so many compliments, and it just brightens up the house...just what it needed with the drab brick color we have...now I actually like the brick color...I accented outside my front door with turquoise pots and pink hydrangeas...they really compliment the darker blue door...the turquoise on the door I thought would be too much. We went back and forth with paint colors, and I absolutely love this color! I will try and post a picture for you to see it....See MoreHelp large l/r walls and narrow floor space.
Comments (22)You have a great space and I agree - the beige really shows beige. I think it might be better to go very light on the other walls - a very pale gray would work great with the muted brown. There are many shades that have touches of cream, which would pick up the brown hues. Have you ever considered painting the oak molding and fireplace surround? Oak shows as orange and works against the brown the same way as the beige. A great alternative is SW Dove White as it's a cooler white with gray tones - a wonderful neutral. You don't have to paint the banister, just the door and window frames and the fireplace. The white blinds are very stark on that wall - I think the contrast is making it difficult to see the beauty of the rich brown and they make the wall appear shorter. Consider pinch pleat ceiling high drapes in a pale gray with hints of brown and cream would tie it all in very nicely. Add a one or two touches of blue or mossy lime green in a glass vase, throw pillows...those colors work very well with browns and grays. Address ambient lighting by adding a couple of tall, thin, buffet lamps on the mantle, perhaps with a touch of mercury glass or silver. An artwork grouping over the fireplace or something sculptural (such as the round metal art you have on the other wall) would give even more focus. Balance lighting above with low lights closer to the furniture and keep the high lights on dimmers. For the space between the front door and the high window you could put a lovely grouping of photos (large enough to see detail), a piece of sculpture or even word stencils. Just remember to keep things in scale - you have high ceilings so don't be afraid to choose large items for those great walls, but if you do use small items group them together so they make a statement. Thanks for sharing your space!...See MoreSo I got a fiddle leaf fig tree!
Comments (197)For the most part, plants decline and die in situations where the amount of food/energy they're able to create (with the help of the sun) is less than they are expending to drive their metabolic processes. It doesn't LOOK like your tree is in any immediate danger of expiring, but symptoms made manifest by ongoing limitations commonly lag the cause by weeks to months. Necrotic leaf tips and margins are far more often than not a symptom of over-watering and/or a high level of dissolved solids (salt) in the soil solution. Occasionally it can be traced entirely to growers watering with their own version of enhanced frequency; more often, it's the result of a poor soil that simply does not allow the grower to water correctly w/o the plant paying a tax in the form of diminished root health because the soil remains saturated long enough to have attained the age of majority. Curing the effects of too much water in the soil starts by using a soil that doesn't hold too much water, and by default, not enough air. Then, using a 'tell' as an indicator of when it's appropriate to water to put a polish on what you practice. I use soils that hold no (or nearly no) excess (perched) water. That means I'd have to work very hard at over-watering. That scenario makes things easy for the grower and easy on the plant. If you've been forever in battle with your chosen soil for control of your plants' vitality, the change that occurs when you switch to a good soil (one that allows you to water correctly [so you're flushing accumulating salts from the soil whenever you water w/o your plant paying 'the tax'], will make it seem like you have somehow done something magic. Too, where a poor soil makes fertilizing something of a helter skelter proposition, good soils make it monkey easy. Your job, as chief grower, is figuring out what is most limiting to your plant and fixing it. This represents the difference between a plant surviving at the outer limits of what it's programmed (genetically) to tolerate and one that's growing in its 'sweet spot'. understanding how soils work, followed by understanding how plants work, are representative of the largest steps forward you'll likely make as a container gardener. There are several links I can suggest if you have interest? Low light and cool temps can cause plants to stall in sort of a consequential dormancy, but nutritional issues and root congestion can do the same; as can the cyclic death and subsequent regeneration of roots as the root mass wobbles back and forth between just right and too wet. Soggy soils kill roots. Before the top can/will grow, the root system has to be able to support new growth, so dead roots have to be replaced. The energy it takes to regenerate roots might have been put toward an increase in the plant's mass. The difference between what a plant is and what it could be is described as lost potential. Even plants that LOOK good can be losing out on an extreme measure of potential; and in plants, lost potential can never be regained under ANY circumstances. If your plant has a droopy or hang-dog look, it's likely from a lack of turgidity (internal water pressure), brought about by too little water, too much water, and/or a high level of dissolved solids in the soil. Unfortunately, after wilting the leaves of F lyrata often don't recover to occupy their former spatial positions. IOW, once they wilt, their attitude usually changes at least partially so that droopy appearance becomes a permanent thing. Try reading this. Al...See MoreWhat type of succulent do I own?
Comments (4)Some things that you should know about the plant: * It does not tolerate wet feet well; therefore, it should be grown in a fast draining medium that holds little or no perched water. This is the only succulent I've ever grown that prefers the 5:1:1 mix (5 parts of pine bark [in an appropriate size, dust to 3/8], 1 part sphagnum peat moss, 1 part perlite, + an appropriate measure of garden [dolomitic] lime, which raises pH and acts as a source of Ca and Mg) over the gritty mix. * Indoors, it will respond well to a position in full sun or VERY bright indirect light. Outdoors, it will grow well in dappled shade, open shade, or a spot where it is protected from direct midday sun, but gets morning and evening sun. * This plant will simply go dormant during periods of severe drought. So you would need to wait years for it to lose viability due to drought. This is a plant you could water on a schedule if you like, with the condition that you allow the soil to go completely dry between waterings. Even when watering on an 'as needed' basis, the medium should be almost completely dry before it gets a drink. * When I water, I make sure the entire soil column is moistened and at least 20% of the total volume of water used exits the drain hole. Fertilizing about every 5th time you water is about right, if you're flushing the soil as you water. To keep track of how many times you've watered and when it's time to fertilize, drop a marble or other object into the pot at every watering. You'll know it's time to fertilize when you're about to add the 5th object. I use Foliage-Pro 9-3-6 as the 'go to' fertilizer for nearly everything I grow in containers. * It readily produces offsets, so you should have many plants to share; and, the clumps should be thinned and repotted from time to time to avoid the toll root congestion takes on the plant's growth rate and level of vitality (health). Al...See Moretapla
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