There has been a few questions about my grafting and I've decided to start a new thread about it.
My plans are to grow 20-30 grafted plants many against non grafted plants so I can get a good comparison. Provided any extra's survive I'll either find homes for them or squeeze them in somewhere. Grafting isn't a miracle technique but rather another tool that a grower can use to increase yields, lower loss of plants, improve vigor and health and provide certain soil disease resistances. Several of the rootstocks have large root systems and are vigorous growers. This promotes better health and larger, earlier harvests in some cases. The benefits I feel I will see are the increased plant vigor and health. The large root systems will also provide better health and help withstand environmental stress issues better. A healthier plant is better suited to withstanding disease pressure.
Along these lines I have chosen Maxifort, RST-04-105-T and Colosus as the main rootstocks I will grow this year along with a few plants of Emperador and possibly He-Man.
I will mainly use the tube graft method. May cleft graft a few especially if they get to big to tube graft.
I have done some practice grafting. The critical areas I've identified so far:
Choosing the correct rootstock for the specific issues you want to address.
The healing chamber. Especially for a smaller numbers of plants like I'll be dealing with. What I'm using is the 1020 seed trays and place a high vented dome on top. I add a little water in the bottom. I place the tray on either a heating pad on low or a germinating mat. I'm still experimenting with regulating the heat. I cover them with several layers of an old sheet. Basically for 4-5 days I check them once a day and do nothing. Then I start removing the covering one layer a day and gradually opening the vents. You have to watch the light levels. It is just like hardening a plant off. From the day of grafting till I have them back under the light shelves full time has been around 12-14 days so far. It does set them back some. One reason to start them earlier.
Another thing is timing your planting of rootstock and scion seeds so you have plants with stems very close to the same size which is very critical. Rootstocks vary some in germination times and some are smaller seedlings. Many recommend to start a few seeds of rootstock and scion varieties in a test germination to get an idea of how to space the planting to achieve similar stem sizes when they reach grafting size. My plan is to stagger plant scion plantings about 4 days apart. Then will do like some regulate the growth rate by temp and light duration if I need too. It will be trial and error this year for certain. One reason I'm not making any definite plans about the number I will put in the ground.
I plan of using a variety of scion varieties. Some I have either planted or will over the next few days are 4th of July hybrid, Cherokee Purple(NCSU researches say it does better than many as a scion variety),Juane Flammee', Goliath hybrid, Jet Star hybrid, Barlow Jap, Ed's Millenium, Brandyboy hybrid Randy's Brandy, Royal Hillbilly, KB and Cody's Paste. These will change depending on whether the stems sizes of each will match a rootstock plant. So a few may be added and subtracted depending on correct stem size. I want to try a wide variety this year so I can get an idea of what varieties seem to benefit the most from grafting.
Post any questions you have. After the last few years I have decided I need to use more of the tools available so I can increase my odds of a better harvest. Using WOW's, row covers, transplanting either earlier or larger plants along with grafting I feel are tools which will increase my odds of doing that. Jay
elkwcOriginal Author
Okiedawn OK Zone 7
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elkwcOriginal Author
soonergrandmom
soonergrandmom