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elkwc

Grafting

14 years ago

There has been a few questions about my grafting and I've decided to start a new thread about it.

My plans are to grow 20-30 grafted plants many against non grafted plants so I can get a good comparison. Provided any extra's survive I'll either find homes for them or squeeze them in somewhere. Grafting isn't a miracle technique but rather another tool that a grower can use to increase yields, lower loss of plants, improve vigor and health and provide certain soil disease resistances. Several of the rootstocks have large root systems and are vigorous growers. This promotes better health and larger, earlier harvests in some cases. The benefits I feel I will see are the increased plant vigor and health. The large root systems will also provide better health and help withstand environmental stress issues better. A healthier plant is better suited to withstanding disease pressure.

Along these lines I have chosen Maxifort, RST-04-105-T and Colosus as the main rootstocks I will grow this year along with a few plants of Emperador and possibly He-Man.

I will mainly use the tube graft method. May cleft graft a few especially if they get to big to tube graft.

I have done some practice grafting. The critical areas I've identified so far:

Choosing the correct rootstock for the specific issues you want to address.

The healing chamber. Especially for a smaller numbers of plants like I'll be dealing with. What I'm using is the 1020 seed trays and place a high vented dome on top. I add a little water in the bottom. I place the tray on either a heating pad on low or a germinating mat. I'm still experimenting with regulating the heat. I cover them with several layers of an old sheet. Basically for 4-5 days I check them once a day and do nothing. Then I start removing the covering one layer a day and gradually opening the vents. You have to watch the light levels. It is just like hardening a plant off. From the day of grafting till I have them back under the light shelves full time has been around 12-14 days so far. It does set them back some. One reason to start them earlier.

Another thing is timing your planting of rootstock and scion seeds so you have plants with stems very close to the same size which is very critical. Rootstocks vary some in germination times and some are smaller seedlings. Many recommend to start a few seeds of rootstock and scion varieties in a test germination to get an idea of how to space the planting to achieve similar stem sizes when they reach grafting size. My plan is to stagger plant scion plantings about 4 days apart. Then will do like some regulate the growth rate by temp and light duration if I need too. It will be trial and error this year for certain. One reason I'm not making any definite plans about the number I will put in the ground.

I plan of using a variety of scion varieties. Some I have either planted or will over the next few days are 4th of July hybrid, Cherokee Purple(NCSU researches say it does better than many as a scion variety),Juane Flammee', Goliath hybrid, Jet Star hybrid, Barlow Jap, Ed's Millenium, Brandyboy hybrid Randy's Brandy, Royal Hillbilly, KB and Cody's Paste. These will change depending on whether the stems sizes of each will match a rootstock plant. So a few may be added and subtracted depending on correct stem size. I want to try a wide variety this year so I can get an idea of what varieties seem to benefit the most from grafting.

Post any questions you have. After the last few years I have decided I need to use more of the tools available so I can increase my odds of a better harvest. Using WOW's, row covers, transplanting either earlier or larger plants along with grafting I feel are tools which will increase my odds of doing that. Jay

Comments (6)

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I noticed last night when I checked my trays I had 100% germination on the RST- 04-105-T that I planted on 2-12-12. Rootstock usually germinate slower. Not one of the 11 regular varieties I planted that same day have germinated yet. Some of them are supposed to be scions for the rootstock. Hope some shows soon or I may not have any scions the right stem size.

    Picked up 20 bags of potting soil yesterday. With what I have on hand that should get me through the season I hope. Had a good visit with the couple that owns my favorite greenhouse. They were busy potting up and preparing trays for the germination chamber. They had just removed their first peppers over the last few days. And going to start their first tomatoes Friday. I always enjoy talking to them and learning some of the news on the commercial end about potting soils, ect. They also told me now they are required by company that holds the rights to the Fourth of July Tomato to use containers stating such and everything. They can't use their own containers and use labels to state it. I wondered last season why all of their Fourth of July were in special containers. They are older than I am. And he said some have already called about plants with the milder weather. They usually don't open till late March. I'm always their first customer. I call ahead and they leave me a way to get in. He is like me afraid we will see one cold morning later. Also he feels my lilac bush is like lots of trees in trouble. He said he has seem many die before. My concern is after the drought stress and not leafing out totally last season how much more can it stand? Got home and finished planting a tray and prepared another one to plant tonight with rootstock. Jay

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Jay,

    That rootstock sure did sprout quickly. Can you maybe slow down the growth rate of the rootstock plants by keeping them at a much lower temperature than the scions are kept at once the scions emerge? Maybe that would keep the rootstock plants from getting too big too quickly.

    Only 20 bags of potting soil? I hope that's enough. : )

    I planted tomatoes early because of the warmer winter weather, and if the weather nosedives back to persistently cool to cold weather in March, I'll be potting everything up to larger containers while I hold them inside. I'm hoping to transplant sometime in early thru mid-March if the soil temps are right and if the forecast looks good.

    There always is a concern when plants bloom/leaf out too early in a warm winter, and I can understand the concerns about the lilacs and how much more erratic weather they can tolerate. I'm always amazed at how well the native woodland fares in drought. We do lose trees and understory plants during and after severe drought, but not as many as I think we will. Of course, the whole process can be deceptive because a lot of woody plants will seem like they survived the drought, only to die sometime in the next year or two because they're surviving off stored energy that pre-dates the drought.

    I expect more than one more cold morning, but then you know how my microclimate is. It was so warm here yesterday---74 degrees in mid-afternoon---and I love that, even though it won't last. We are on a weather roller coaster here with temps swinging back and forth from average to above average every week. I was sitting at the table sowing snap pea seeds into cups yesterday and Tim came inside to tell me that he had opened up the greenhouse doors and vents because it was 108 degrees in there. I'll be happy when the shadecloth I ordered arrives.

    Dawn

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    My question about planting out grafted plants is: Do you plant them out to keep the graft above soil level,. I usually plant my plants very deep to get roots along the stem. If planted deep they will root above the graft and I have wondered about that.

    gary

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Gary,
    Yes you have to keep the graft joint above soil level just like a rose, ect. Likewise I usually plant my plants deep. On the grafted plants I won't be able to do that. They say the root systems of many of the rootstocks are such that it isn't needed. That is one reason I'm starting some of my rootstock seeds in the 4x4 cells. Then will leave them in them through the grafting procedure and pot up after they heal if needed. I expect a steep learning curve. I'm hearing positive reports from the few trials so far here in KS. The greenhouse growers I visited with Wed have heard similar reports and want me to keep them informed of my results this year.

    Wed 250 or so white geese arrived in the afternoon and ate on the wheat field next to me and spent the night on the sewer pond. I could tell by all of their noise yesterday morning they were probably moving on. Sure enough all were gone last evening. So signs of an early spring are increasing every day. I need to get some pre emergence down or it will be too late. I did shred some leaves last evening. Still have a few to shred. Will try to finish working the garden this afternoon. Jay

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    The instructions that I have read say that you must keep the graft above the soil line, which of course makes sense. It also says to be careful to support the plant well as it grows because the graft may be a weak spot. I guess that planting deep isn't as much of a requirement because the rootstock is so robust.

  • 14 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Oops, looks like Jan and I posted at the same time. Well, mostly same info as well.