I may be mistaken, but I don't think fertilizing before the grass starts turning green helps it wake up. As I understand it, the grass will only use fertilizer if the grass is green.

The grass won't use it until greenup (which, since you winterized, will be earlier than unfertilized lawns). Also, the Milorganite will require time to break down and feed the microbes which will then supply food to the grass.

Having winterized, early spring fertilization definitely isn't required (in NH, I'm presuming a cool season grass like fescue or KBG or perennial rye). You don't have to rush.

Whenever the snow melts and the ground dries out enough that you don't slide around is just fine. The Milorganite will take a week or three to become available, and gently feed the lawn.

Doing it right now would be fine, too--it'll wait for ground temperatures to rise and the microbes to awaken. It's just a lot more uncomfortable for you to be out there...

This has always been the beauty of the organic feeding concept to me. You can basically fertilize any time you want but the actual nutrients taken in by the plant will be limited to the microbial activity that is heavily influenced by temperature. So only until the temps rise enough in the soil will the actual "fertilization" occur. Not to mention the rate of nutrient release will increase as temps keep climbing which is especially convenient for a lawn grass as its activity also picks up the pace as it gets warmer. Pretty much the way nature intended!

On the other hand I'm thinking this can be bad for chemical fertilizers and maybe someone can back me up. Since it is not dependent on microbial activity and hence temperature, I would think in certain cases you can put it on a little earlier than the grass might prefer and shock it into growing? I know fluctuating winter temps can be hard on a plant (much better to just stay cold all winter and come out with a gradual thaw) so maybe in the same train of thought this can induce unwanted stress on the plant.

Either way the chemical fertilizer doesn't stick around too long and doesn't have the controlled release of an organic system so why would you want to do it anyways?

Thanks to all of you for such a great advice. What is the good time to put down the fertilizer (after soil temp is in 50 degress ?). I have been monitoring soil temperature maps for my region and the soil temp is still b/w 30-35 deg range.

What should I start with for fertilization - SBM / Alfafal/ Milogranite?

I live at end of cul-de-sac and plows dump the street snow and along with it salt/sand on the lawn. Is it ok to put some lime down right now since the front of my lawn has some salt/sand. Is gypsum pellets a better option than lime?

I might have to top the front of the lawn with some loam and seed as a portion of my lawn got raked out by the plows. Is hydro seeding a viable option since it contains chemicals and may not go w/ organic plan? I only have to do it for front portion of my lawn. Please advice pros and cons.

BTW I did over seed my lawn last fall w/ 70 lbs of premium Lesco seed and my lawn size is 7500 sq ft.

Thanks

shock it into growing?

Yep, it can force top growth before the plant wants to and when it should be growing roots. Technically, excessive organic fertilization can cause the same thing, although it's harder to do and I can't see a way of doing it with reasonable feedings offhand.

What should I start with for fertilization - SBM / Alfafal/ Milogranite?

Whichever's easiest for you to get. All of them will become available as the weather warms at just about the same time, give or take. The Milorganite might be a bit faster to become available, but not significantly.

If you can vary it a bit during the season, that would help, too. Different foods will favor different species of bacteria and fungi, encouraging more diversity.

If you can't, don't worry about it. What you can get will be just fine. Remember to balance the feeding to no more than 1 lb of actual nitrogen per thousand square feet at a time, however.

Is it ok to put some lime down right now since the front of my lawn has some salt/sand. Is gypsum pellets a better option than lime?

Gypsum is for sodic soils, which you probably don't have in NH. Only a soil test could tell for sure. Lime will raise pH on any soil--slowly--but is usually not necessary for organic lawns. Your microbes will adjust (well, the species will be appropriate) to your lawn. Organic material will neutralize and buffer the pH as well, moving it toward normal and making it harder for it to move away.

In short, if you have no soil test, it may be a waste. If your lawn looks OK, you probably don't need to (unless a test says you do).

Is hydro seeding a viable option since it contains chemicals and may not go w/ organic plan?

That's arguable--some will say yes, others no. I say yes as it's a one-time thing and doesn't contain that many synthetics, and not a one I can think of that will cause long-term issues. I'd check that, of course, as an additive beyond the standards may cause issues.

You'll find that some of us are pure organic, others a little more hybrid. I allow for a hybrid approach (and then tend to be pure organic anyway as it's just as easy and does a better job).

If you can do it early, you can top the soil and just spread seed. You'd definitely want that done before soil temperatures reach into the 45-50 range. At that point, seed is sprouting. Getting it done during the dormant period means not having to water (much) until later in the season. NH summers are mild enough that summer losses should be reasonably minimal, too. They're fairly minimal here in PA, even.

BTW I did over seed my lawn last fall w/ 70 lbs of premium Lesco seed and my lawn size is 7500 sq ft.

Depending on the actual mix, that's kind of a lot, really. KBG only requires 1 pound or so for overseeding per thousand square feet (so 7.5 pounds total for you). The numbers go *way* up with fescues, but 10 lbs/thousand square feet is above the seeding rate for a new...