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silver8ack_gw

Should I start amending my soil, or wait

15 years ago

I'm getting my back yard graded/leveled this fall and will be planting seed. I'd like to move to an organic lawn.

My question is should I start adding "stuff" to the soil now, or will that just be a waste if they are going to grade and possibly apply topsoil in another month?

Comments (4)

  • 15 years ago

    Before applying anything called "topsoil" be sure of what you want because "topsoil is defined as the top 4 to 6 inches of soil and it may be nothing more then what you already have.
    What is your soil like now?
    What is your soils pH?
    How well does that soil drain?
    How much organic matter is in your soil now?
    You can make a very good soil, without laying something called "topsoil" simply by amending the soil that is there now with enough organic matter.
    Start by contacting Rutgers Cooperative Extension Service about having a good, reliable soil test done which will help with the soil pH and the nutrient levels you now have. Then do these simple soils tests,
    1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top.

    2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

    3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

    4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell.

    5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.
    to see what your soil is like now and what you may need to do to have a good healthy soil to grow a strong and healthy turf on it.

  • 15 years ago

    That is a dilemma. I guess I would simply water it now as if it was a great lawn. That means once a week water deeply for an hour.

  • 15 years ago

    Why do the email notifications not work on this board? Lol.

    They guy said he thinks I have enough topsoil to push around. I installed my fence a few years ago and remember digging down to 3 feet and I think most of it was "soil". Again am by no means an expert but it was pretty deep before it changed to a Yellowish clayish dirt.

    He will need to scrape the grass/weeds off though so I don't know how deep that will go. Maybe my soil is already good, this is the garden state after all :)

  • 15 years ago

    Keep in mind that since "topsoil" is the top 4 to 6 inches of soil scrapping off the grass growing there now meams removing at least some of your topsoil. The Soil Food Web is most active in the top 4 to 6 inches of soil too, so removing that can mean removing the most active part of your Soil Food Web which is needed to maintain a good, healthy soil.

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