If you used more than 10-20 pounds of anything per 1,000 square feet, times the number of times you applied, then it might be considered more than most of us use.

Thatch is usually only a problem in yards where the owner waters more frequently than once a week. According to my professional grass maintainer friends, the type of fertilizer you use is much (MUCH) less important than the watering frequency (for thatch build up). What happens is that if the grass gets watered daily (for example), the roots never need to go very deep in the ground. In the case of a really dense grass like zoysia, the roots may never even reach the ground. The density of the grass shades the lower realms of the grass above the soil and the roots can form above ground. As long as they get daily water, they will form an entire plant above ground. Even the rhizomes can spread under the grass instead of under the soil. So the secret to eliminating roots above the ground is to water only weekly and let the roots dig deep for moisture.

Zoysia is an extremely dense turf. It always feels like thatch, but that's just zoysia. I planted some zoysia last spring and it is very dense already. I plunged my fingers into another zoysia lawn last week and it felt thatchy but it was all grass.

Here is an ornamental variety of zoysia (z. tenufolia) that always clumps when left unmowed. Some (if not many) others will eventually clump if you don't mow them. I'm not sure if this effect is due to thatch underneath or how this happens, but it is very striking when you see it. Look for it in Japanese gardening.

Thanks for the info. I had been watering twice a week because my soil was too compacted to take an inch all at once, but after adding all that protien and lots of ACT, seaweed, etc... I've been able to water once a weeek with very little run-off.

As far as I can tell, the roots are growing into the ground, I'll be able to check for sure next spring when I aerate and put down some Mychro fungi.

I must admit that this has been a learning experience. Up until now all I've done was cut the grass with no regard to soil life or anything like that. And if it weren't for my thinning Bermuda, I'd still be the same. Thanks to this site and others I'm an organic man all the way. Go microbes!!

Cutlas, you are somewhat between a rock and hard place having a mixed Zoysia/Bermuda lawn in terms of fertilizing.

I respectively disagree with Dave. The main cause of thatching with Zoysia is over-fertilizing coupled with over watering. I sell a lot of Zoysia in your area just to the south. With you being in OKC, your Zoysia should only be getting 2 fertilizer applications per year, whereas your Bermuda needs at least 5-applications. See a problem?

Anyway in regards to your Zoysia, apply the first application (assuming organic) at the very first sign of green sprigs in the spring, repeat 8-weeks later and you are done for the year. If you use CGM apply at a rate of 10-pounds per 1000/ft2, or 14-pounds for SBM

If you are thinking of using CGM for weed control then use it at a rate of 20-pounds per 1000/ft2 just for the first application, then wait for 12 weeks before applying any more at the 10-pound rate. However I donÂt recommend using CGM on Zoysia for weed control because Zoysia grows so thick and if properly maintained weeds do not have a chance. With that said I wouldnÂt even use CGM because it is so expensive in most areas.

Oh to answer your question for this time a year, add nothing, let it go dormant, adding anything now will do more harm than good. Since you already have had your first frost, the Zoysia and Bermuda should be going too or already asleep for the winter slumber.

Hope that helps.

TW

texas-weed,

Thanks for the info, but I'm afraid I wasn't clear about my situation. I DID have thinning Bermuda because of shade issues, so I replaced it with Matrella Zoysia. So I don't have a mix, just Zoysia.

You may not remember, but you had a hand in helping me get through the decision/laying process back in June. heres just one of my threads from back then; http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/lawns/msg0602561419883.html

Thanks again for the correction. I guess I'll just have to fight the urge to be doing something to it. What about ACT? Should I limit the use of that, too?

Yes Cutlas I remember, that is why I jumped in here on this thread. I was just under the impression you still had some Bermuda, my bad.

ACT? I assume you mean a active compost tea right? No problem using ACT as it is not a fertilizer that amounts to anything measurable in NPK terms. If you can afford it take it one-step further and just use compost and top-dress with it.

What you want to avoid right now is nitrogen or covering the grass up with topdressing. The Zoysia needs to sleep for now. What you can do now to ensure good results next year is take a soil sample test and only pay attention to PH, Phosphorous, Potassium, and completely ignore nitrogen.

Then what you can do with the results right now is make PH corrections. Then in spring since you are in OK you are probably going to need Phosphorous, so armed with that info your first spring application should address the Phosphorous and Potassium needs. On the organic side Alfalfa meal or pellets is likely the answer as it is the natures perfect balance ratio of 3-1-2. My gut instinct is a soil test result will recommend a 1-2-1 ratio for OK. If so get back to use and we can advise.

Good luck and God Bless.

TW