I have one about 6' in a cont in the house that is doing fine-but I think that I am watering it more than you. I keep the soil on the damp-not soaking wet side, In other words, when it dries out, then I water it, I don't leave it dry for long. I also think the fan is unnecessary, and may be drying it out as well.

As to the bulging-not sure exactly what you mean, except that they do have a fat base.

illinoispalms

My advise is " get that fan away from it " and buy you a moisture meter . You will not believe how much it will help you with this palm as well as all your other plants...

Another thing is this palm is a warm weather palm and
I would be certain it does not like 65 .. probaly no
less than 75 is what I would recommend
just my opinion !

I also think you misting it and keeping it very moist in winter (low temps and weak sunlight) is doing it in.

A lot of palms that like warmer weather year-round (the ultra-tropicals and most from madagascar, frankly) need to slow their metabolism in the winter (here in FL the dry season that is accompanied by cooler temps).

Most problems with faltering interior plants (all types) is people overwatering. So, in the winter with your palms, give them very bright light and reduce their watering and don't fertilize. Remember full sun above 30 N latitude in winter (more so above 40 N) is weak and very weak, respectively. Give them sunlight up there in winter!!!

Even here in south Florida, many "shade palms" like Chamaedorea, licuala, pinanga can take the winter sun without burning since cooler temps are accompanied by drier soil. Metabolism is slowed, so we don't fertilize or worry a lot about watering in this dormancy period.

Oops, yeah, lemme qualify our "dry season"--we still get rain, but the soil temps are cooler, the soil dries out and then you water. Our dry season is not like Arizona's--in which it doesn't rain for months on end.

Yes, as was said earlier, do water the palm so that it dries out before another swig, but not like enduring a severe drought condition.

I actually keep my house much more humid that the average home here in Michigan in the winter and warmer as well, but since my very good sized one has fronds very near the ceiling where of course the hottest and driest air rises, I do get browning on even new fronds and sometimes severe. They don't take the dry air well at all I'd guess, but warmer temperatures are required as well, and now that the coldest weather has arrived I find mine gets very dry soil quickly, though it's not far from the furnace. If you are growing at those cooler temps. I wouldn't worry about it being a little drier however, in the pot, but would still work on improving the humidity. I would say , though mine is far from a perfect looking specimen , at over ten years old its' grown into a healthy and oversized specimen now, so growing them indoors is not impossible! I do give it supplemental light with some flourescent lights as well though!

i keep mine by a SW window in the winter - after the soil surface dries, i wait about another week before watering again, so i end up watering about every 10 days, the plant remains at room temp, so far so good this winter, no fertilizer