I was waiting, hoping someone else had some information for you. I do have several plumerias but keep them in a heated greenhouse in the winter..so no help that way. One thing, though, they drop all their leaves and go basically dormant in the winter, even in the greenhouse. So, you could probably do what the guy from CA does.

Hello.. I grew several plumeria plants from cutting and seeds. I grew them underlight for the winter. Grow them four inches from the lights, about 12 hours daily. They always looks so happy with very green leaves. Those leaves did not fall. Of course.. sometime those leaves turned yellow and fall. It is normal to me. I put them outdoor after first frost in the spring until two weeks before frost in October. I do know some people prefer to storage their plumerias (dormant stage) in the closet or in shoe boxes for the winter.

It is fun and easy to grow plumeria from seeds. I would like to grow some more this year.

I hope this helps you!

Kat

I'm so new at this.I have some cuttings from Hawaii with wax on the root ends. Do I cut that off and cure them for a week or two before planting? Or will the roots emerge above the waxy seal? Also, What kind of grow lights are you using??? I hear all grow lights are not created equal...Thanks

What color is the plumeria cutting? Red ones are usually more difficult to root than white or yellow ones. The ones you buy in Hawaii may be somewhat small, and may not have enough energy to store through the whole winter and early Spring. They will probably shrivel, but that doesn't mean that they won't grow. If the cutting is small and not particularly fat, you could try rooting it on a small heat mat or heating pad through the winter. They do need heat to root. They would root best at warm late Spring or Summer temps. I've never seen a cutting with the wax on the end. I would think the wax would interfere with the root formation, but don't know since I'd never heard of it being on the end. Rather than cut the wax off, perhaps it could be scraped off. The longer the cutting is, the easier it will be to root.

Don't know if I'd be any help since I'm zone 8 but after mine have dropped all their leaves,I quit watering,let the root ball dry out,then cover tops of pots with newpaper secured w/ masking tape(keeps the soil from falling out) then lay them on their sides,up on the top shelf of my un-heated lean-to. Late March-early April,I take them down and start watering again.

PP

It is a rather tough time to be starting plumerias...I have about 12 or so...if it has wax on the ends you could probably store them until spring in a cool, dry spot. Check the cutting once a week and see that it feels SOLID...not in the least bit mushy or shriveled. I've kept cuttings I got in Florida on a basement window sill in Chicago all winter. Rooting them is a matter of less is more...1/2 cactus soil to 1/2 perlite. Fill 1/2 gallon or larger pot, mark 3 or 4 inches up on the cutting, dip in water, then rooting powder with fungicide in it, make hole in soil and place. Pat soil firmly in place and top with 1 inch of pea gravel. Heat makes them root, I've actually rooted some on top of the hot water heater when they wouldn't wait til spring. LET THE SOIL DRY OUT...DO NOT OVERWATER or they will rot. when in doubt...WAIT!!!! Don't wiggle them to check for roots, roots are brittle and will break. New leave at the top means roots are forming. I put mine out on the patio once the nights get about 65 with no problems. They winter over in my basement where I water them about once a month or so after cutting off all the leaves. ( They go dormant and the leaves would fall off anyway. Cutting them off means they don't suck any moisture out of the plants before they fall off.) Good Luck...