Hello,

Ok, 10 acres is out of my league, but i'll try anyway:

Sulpher?
Sul-Po-Mag?
Epsom salts?

Good luck,
Ken

Strawboss,

Great ideas in that video with the use of swales and mulching. One thought I have is to use native plants rather than exotics. Autumn Olive is an invasive exotic and black locust and buffalo berry don't appear to be indigenous to Nevada.

Plants native to Nevada should be easier to establish and more tolerant of salty, alkaline soil.

FWIW,
Tim

Here is a link that might be useful: Nevada Native Plant Society

WOW! almost 10 pH!
I thought it was bad here in the SLC area with 8.5 pH! I do not think I will complain again about not being able to grow blueberries ever again.... atleast I can grow other stuff.
What is the pH level in the water you plan to use for watering your 10 acres?
If it is that high, you are going to be re-introducing the extreme pH levels back into the soil each time you water.

I am looking forward to watching the video and would love to know how you are doing later this summer with the pH levels, and what you have been able to grow this year.
I wish you greatest success! :-)

I used to live in southern NV, and traveled in other parts. Have I somehow missed a part that had bad drainage? The whole state is a sandbox, as far as I've ever seen. Do you think drainage is likely to be a problem?

First, I would advise you to buy a book called "Hands-On Agronomy" by Neal Kinsey, and read it. It will give you a far better idea of what you're up against, and what will and won't help.

Second, take a few soil samples and send them to his laboratory for analysis and advice, then follow it.

Mulch and manure will help a lot, but they can't do it alone.

I used to think the Cooperative Extension Services knew what they were doing, but was proven wrong. Go with Kinsey.

Sue

Here is a link that might be useful: Kinsey Agricultural Services

Thanks for the info about Kinsey, I'll check it out. I've got time - three years before I move out there. Lots of parts of Nevada have heavy clay soil and drainage problems, Sue. This land is part of an old salt marsh. I know, I know...what was I thinking! But it is unspeakably beautiful and the aquifer is massive with excellent water quality. This summer I'm going to put in a couple of swales and mulch them and see what happens in a year's time. We lucked out in Reno and got a really cool cooperative extension agent. She is a member of our local permaculture guild and really shaking things up at the old extension office. he he he.

Buffaloberry is indeed native to Nevada. My property is covered with them, up to ten feet tall. You're right about Russian Olive being considered invasive but only where there are waterways, sadly not a problem where my land is. Black locust, if it will tolerate the pH is masterful at fixing nitrogen and suckering like crazy which would create lots of green matter for mulching. As a bonus, it is a favorite food of goats and I plan to raise some out there.

I haven't been to GW in quite a while, but have to make a comment about the use of elemental sulfur as a pH modifier, and have many times before. It looks like the word has still not gotten out that the use of elemental sulfur is counter productive since it is antibiotic. We don't want to kill off soil organisms or inhibit their work, do we?

I've recently read about and begun to use EM - effective microorganisms. Dr. Higa relates that the 'technology' is good for what ails the planet regardless of location. I have also inadvertently used dilute Kombucha on a pomegranate bush that has resulted in strikingly visual (green) results compared with another bush that doesn't get the same treatment.

Here is a link that might be useful: EM Research Organization

Did you have a regular soil test done, or were your results from one of those little home-test kits? Some of those kits are notoriously unreliable, as are some of those pH soil probes.

Sue

Have your soil tested by the county extension service. Here in NM it costs $20.00 for the test. Remember, it took mother nature millions of year to make the soil, I don't understand why anyone would think they can change the soil in a few years. The only thing that would improve the soil is the addition of organic material such as manure. This type of amendment only improves the water holding capacity and not much else.