Unless the temps are consistently in the 80s

I wouldn't mess with it right now.

Make sure you don't use lawn fertilizer with weed killer.

How much you use depends on the size of you pot.

I used at least a few tablespoons full in a 12" pot but
I would recommend starting with less at first.

When I have done this in the past(as long as the weather is warm)it usually only takes a week or less.

I plan on doing the same thing to my sago because all its leaves burned from the heat earlier this month (and it just had a flush indoors that was too big). So Ill probably cut all the leaves off and give it some fertilizer, but I haven't decided if I should use regular fertilizer thats just a little higher in nitrogen or something very high in nitrogen such as lawn fertilizer. But if you use lawn fertilizer definitely make sure there is no weed killer like jim said.
Good luck!

High Nitro is very good, but the other nutrients and micronutrients are just as important, especially Mg and Mn.

You will have better luck if you wait until some warmer weather as already mentioned, but it does not necessarily have to be that warm. By May, depending on where you are, it might be warm enough.

x

So, I have 4 Sagos, One very small one (4 fronds) one small one (7 fronds) and two that I just got, which are pretty darn large ... (about 15+ fronds per plant) They are all now outdoors. So is it warm enough to do a fertilizer flush in my zone? I would think it is by now. The two small ones I have had for a good while, and don't look like they are ready to do much of anything. The two I just purchased what I call the "pre flush spike" or "cone" in the middle so it looks like they are probably going to flush soon anyway.

If I do decided to use lawn fertilizer, what about fertilizing them there after for the rest of the summer? What is the best for them? ALL of them are in pots, and all of them will come in, probably next December. I generally wont leave them out if it is going to go below 30F because I don't want the pots to freeze. Can they handle the pots freezing? Just curious. Thank you!

The pre-flush spikes you refer to are called cataphylls, they protect the emerging leaves. But they are not indicative of a "pre-flush". They form normally after a flush ends. The real way to tell if a flush is imminent is you will see the top of the caudex expand and simultaneously the other leaves start to turn downwards as they get pushed away.

I plan on a first fertilizer dose for my Cycads this weekend. Just be careful not to overdose - lawn fertilizers have lots of quick Nitrogen (urea) which is not as good as slower release N (ammonia).

As for the remainder of the growing season: it depends. If the growing season is long enough to get a second flush, then go ahead and fertilize. In optimum conditions you might be able to get another flush about 2 months after the leaves harden from the prior flush - but the second flush tends to be weaker.

My preference is to maximize on the first flush, then don't push it for the remainder of the summer while the plant accumulates starch in preparation for the next big flush the following year.

The only advantage in inducing an extra flush is the gain in stem height. The downside is potentially smaller and fewer leaves.

My Cycas revoluta, in a pot, starts to show leaf damage at around 20F.
x

Hey Ken

I think all the info so far is right on.

After your Cycads flush I think almost any good palm fertilizer is fine,something like Carl Pools is a good choice=
right balance of NPK and all the minors/micro-nutrients.

As far as hardiness you may want to check according to your specific type-Sago for instance is hardy down to at least 23f

This article here should answer all your questions...

Here is a link that might be useful: Tom Broome's Cycad Fertilizer Info