Unfortunately if it's mushy and dripping dark fluid, you are going to have to prune off the rotten parts ASAP.

You need to cut to a firm spot below the rot until you see clean white wood. Sterilize your shears in between each cut or it will spread.

After you get to clean wood you can seal the area with caulk so it doesn't get moisture in there.

In the garage it either got too cold / and or wet in there for them while dormant.

It has happened to all of us and it's not fun but if the plant can be saved it's worth it. Good luck & keep us updated.

Things can freeze in a garage in Michigan besides that's where you put all the Vernor's to keep them nice and cold. :)

I would expect the cold was too much for it. E gave you good advice to cut it back to clean wood. Be sure you sterilize your snips with rubbing alcohol between cuts so you do not contaminate the clean wood when you find it.

I would bring it in and place in a southern sunny window. If its wet then let it dry out some and keep it on the dryer side for a couple of weeks. A light watering around the inside edge of the pot when you do water and no fertilizer. Best of luck and hope it recovers.

My Plumeria froze on the tips so I cut off down to good stem and didn't water it. It is now 85 degrees and getting leaves on the tips. How often should I water a Plumeria in a container in the heat of summer?

Debrichard,

I like the advice that was given.. Cut back to clean wood and remember to clean your shear with alcohol between cuts. If you have over wintered like this before ... Did you happen to leave them on the floor this time? They like to be lifted from the cold floor so may if you bring them in again and give them some more heat in the garage, you could also place them on pallets or something so the warm air can circulate around the container. Don't overwater in the winter . Just a few thoughts..

Good luck!

Laura

Hi Anne.. Watering In the summer depending on where you live can be different from my watering habits. If you tree is in a good fast draining mix, then it will dry out faster than in a potting mix that is heavy and water retentive. So.. You need to see how long it takes for your trees to dry out first. What type of mix do you have them in? If you are unsure of the waterings needs... You can use a bamboo skewer and stick it into the container to check for moisture levels. Then pull it out. If it is moist to the touch or wet, don't water. If it is dry, then water, most of us like to water our trees when they dry out. This can be every three days for some. Once a week for others... It all depends on where you live and the environment that you have your trees in. Are they under other trees? In the open sunshine?

I'm trying to say that you will get a feel for your trees and how to water. You need to feel comfortable knowing that they are in a good fast draining mix. This really helps so that the are not standing in water. Plumeria do not like to have their "feet" wet for very long... So you want a fast draining mix.

I water my trees a lot in the summer and I don't worry about them soaking in the mix. My mix is very fast draining and I can water without worrying about the PWT being a problem in my containers.

Some will say, when in doubt, wait a week... Lol. I know my trees like to get plenty of water and then I let them dry out.. It all continues like that.

Hope this helps..

Laura

OMG "K" you know Vernor's. I was raised in Buffalo, NY and unless your living in the north no one has ever heard of it. We have found it in Va but not often. I think it spread a little over the years.

Sorry debrichard to hear about your plants. Lots of good advice here though. I'm sure they will pull through better than ever. Lots of new tips for blooms. Peg

wow, never thought Vernor's was such a big deal! I have brought the Plumie inside, and started cutting it off, a little at a time, is that right? Also, i have heard it will not bloom on the tips you cut off, is that true?
My garage is heated, although we keep the heat pretty low, 40's to 50's. I guess I'll go back to using my friends plant room for the winter!
Thanks everyone! Also, i'm always looking for a cutting! Small or whatever, this is my first and I LOVE IT.

Oh its a big deal! You get it at Meijers and return your pop cans for the deposit. :) I knew that comment would flush out some Yankees. As of about 3 years ago I can get Vernors in San Antonio.

It will not bloom for you this season on the tips that you cut. Unfortunate but it happens. I would use the opportunity to prune and shape if needed. I had a 7 ft tall Lei Flower with about 40 tips get some frost last winter. Since it was going to be a bad bloom year for it I decided to prune it back and shape it.

I am glad Laura mentioned not to place it on concrete. That is an important step. Any kind of thermal break will help out. I have used everything from pallets to cardboard to acoustical ceiling tiles with success.

Cut, look for clean white wood, clean your snips, repeat if necessary until you have clean white wood. Good luck and keep an eye out on this forum as many of will post when we have extra cuttings to share.

loveplants2 ... I think you made a VERY Good point. I did notice that some of mine that rotted were on the garage floor and not on the layers of sheetrock I put under them. Also many that had a tip or two touching the concrete inside wall rotted. This winter I am using pallets, moving them away from the wall and keeping a heater in there even though it never got below 57 degrees with no heat.

Hopefully I will get my greenhouse done before winter, but that's wishful thinking.

If the plants are kept outdoors but on a concrete floor, do they still need to have some type of thermal barrier between the pots and the concrete?

Sago, Assumption that you are referring to overwinter/dormancy periods I would lean towards a yes in most instances. It does become less critical the further south you are. Being zone 10 I doubt it would make too much of a difference for you provided its primarily warm (60s and up) and not just above the zone 10 freeze numbers (USDA zones give a flavor of how cold it may get but don't give a heat based number so be careful.)

I Have left more resilient Plumeria outside year round on concrete without much impact.

In the spring and summer and fall warm concrete is your friend. In the winter its not.

Got it. Thanks kms2. :)