I would think the needle would do more than fine for you in full sun. In habitat, they exist in woodland areas, but my understanding is that they tolerate full sun even in the deep south, and it is preferable to keep them in full sun in the north. I would think that minors in the north would prefer full sun as well.

Not sure about Butias in that cold a zone unprotected, but I do find that needles can take full sun well if given plenty of water. They actually grow faster for me in full sun than in shade.

On the other hand, sabals, both minor and Louisiana do much better in mostly shade, even here in Michigan. I have 2 potted Louisianas and 2 potted minors, and they all grow much faster if given shade. I also have 5 in-ground minors planted on the west side of my house, and they are also doing well with no more than 2 hours of full sun a day.

I have 2 butias and one of them was unprotected this past winter. It did have damage and the newest frond is stunted, but after 3 years in the ground, it was established enough to survive this mild winter even in it's very undesireable spot. So its not too far of a strech to get them to survive here unprotected, but they have no chance in the average winter and can look great with just a little bit of protection. When I protect my butias, they never have damage, one of the most problem free palms I have and one of the most beautiful too!
-Alex

Why is the site undesirable for the Butia? I am leaving mine containerized as least for the current season. They got potted up and won't be stunted. Surprised they were growing so vigorously in the smaller containers and the still look top heavy! Next year, we'll see. Thanks for the advise.

Pindos are notoriously finicky in cool wet winter climates. Everything I read about them says they are at least an 8a palm. Other sites rate them as 8b, which explains why Gary (Gary's Nursery in NC) has had problems with pindos even in his solid 8a climate. Friends in VB who have pindos say they had wrapped them for quite a few winters before they were big enough/established enough to go unprotected in winter.

I've seen some impressively large pindos down in Bethany Beach, Delaware, but they are winter wrapped every year, and we have a good half zone on NYC. I wrapped my first-year blue pot pindo with a combination of techniques based on input here and a local palm gardener: burlap wrap, tyvek home wrap for breathable waterproofing and then a leaf cage around its base. I thought it came through its first winter here unscathed, but as it began to grow, the emerging frond showed a lot of damage, so much that it needed to be cut off. Then two of the most recent fronds also dropped from winter damage to their stems which weakened them. They looked otherwise healthy, but the just flopped to the ground as they grew and pushed up out of the center they damaged stems could support the weight and they flopped outward. It looked sad last month having lost half of its height and 1/3 of its fronds. Now, the palm is recovering quickly with two solid looking spears emerging and opening. This is a blue pot pindo in its first complete year, so they are subject to cold damage, even in a mild winter.

I'm resigned to the fact that I will have to winter protect this palm forever, which is a bit of a put off. I know it will gain winter hardiness in time, but don't think it will ever be a long term survivor in our borderline zone.

My protected butia is in a great spot, southern exposure, right against brick wall, doesnt get much better. My unprotected one is in a dark corner of my yard with white wood deck that does a very bad job of keeping heat. It's also being invaded by a lot of mint in that location and all previous trees in that one spot never survived. The gardenia in that spot is also unprotected but does really well so maybe there is something in the soil (maybe very acitic).

-Alex

I have decades more experience with containerized growing compared to the ground, so only just started this endeavor. I have, in-the-ground, 2 Sabal minors, 5 Trachycarpus fortunei, 1 Trachycarpus wagnerianus, a clump of Rhaphidophyllum (Needle Palm), and Chamaerops humilis (Med fan). The Med fan is in the HOTTEST exposure, full sun, year round near the building, in a raised bed no less because it started as a Mediterranean herb garden. Trachys are also in the front but some get the protection of Maples in the growing season, others get more full sun. Needle is also in full, hot sun and but I heard they appreciate a bit more shading for good color--but they are not being moved now as I will refrain from replacing with a Butia. Sabals are in part sun to shade. I would resist planting a Butia too close to the house--they are massive if successful! But I must gain at least a zone near the house because I am able to grow the following plants--

Eriobotra japonica (Loquats)
Podocarpus macrophylla
Aspidistra
Camellias
Algerian Ivy

But has been noted, Butias seem intolerate of excessive WET and I have no control over that. Shame, because although I love the fan palms, it would be nice to plant a feather palm too. Gotta go, need to transplant up a Phoenix sylvestris and maybe the dactylifera (Medjool).

Pindo palms have problems with sustained combo of wet and cold. Here in va bch we have had colder winter lows than those we had in winter 2010/11, but no damage to Pindo palms. The damage in 2010/11 came from the rare snow that stuck around due to sustained cold.

I have one in my yard but its in a Pot. Really In Indiana thats the way to do It but am Testing seeding right now.

should be fine