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Systemic fertilizer

18 years ago

I found some Rose & flower systemic fertilizer by Bayer that is a 2 in 1. Kills spider mites, thrips, leafhoppers, & whiteflies to to name a few. It is 8-12-4. My question is....would this be ok to use (every 6 weeks as directed) in conjunction with seaweed extract and or epsom salts? I am assuming I should not use superbloom in conjunction to the systemic.

I am currently using 12-55-6....will mixing with the systemic burn the leaves?? Any thoughts on this??

I read on another forum that the water soluble fertilizers are not good to use all season because they leave salt in the soil?

I have been using superbloom on my plumies the last few weeks. Now that I am seeing inflos, I think I want to switch over to the systemic...but I won't do it until I get the expert advice.

I would hate it if I damaged my beloved plumies!

Comments (3)

  • 18 years ago

    Hi There,
    I am not an expert on plumeria, but I grew roses for years, at one time had about 125 bushes. I used the systemic mostly for bugs. Used rose food and many other additives, etc for the flowers.

    Now this is only my opinion, but I see roses as an woody stock, and would only use rose systemic on roses. Plumeria to me has a soft tissue inside, to me more like cactus. Personally, i would be afraid of it burning from roots to top..but there may be others on here that have used it successfully.

    who knows? I used it in the 80's and 90's, may have changed.
    Karen B.

  • 10 years ago

    If you look at the table of your "systemic fertilizer" you will see Imidacloprid listed. Imidacloprid has been found to severely harm bees. It is a Neonicotinoid, a derivative of tobacco, and has been found to disorientate bees, so they don't find their way back home. Neonicotinoids have been banned in parts of Europe and we beekeepers work hard on the EPA to ban these compounds here and get it off the shelves.

    Please read up on it and DON"T use it. Use diluted soap water for pests on your roses. Use clean fertilizers for the bees' sake.


  • 10 years ago

    Please don't use diluted soap water (unless it's insecticidal soap, based on potassium fatty acids) or any type if dishsoap or other detergent (shampoo, e.g.) on your plants.

    Dishsoap/
    detergent’s effect on plants varies with the mode of exposure. If
    the top of the plant is sprayed thoroughly with even mild detergent
    solutions such that all surfaces including leaves are covered, the
    detergent can easily dissolve the protective coating of cuticular wax
    on the leaves of the plant, causing abnormally high rates of water
    loss and possible necrosis of all or part of the leaf. Cuticular
    waxes prevent leaves from drying out, and help stop pathogens from
    attacking the leaf. Strong solutions will even dissolve cell
    membranes, causing death of the cells.

    If
    a detergent solution is used as a soil drench or makes its way into
    the soil as a consequence of overspray or run-off, the effect on
    roots is immediate. Because one of the main function of roots is to
    absorb water and nutrients dissolved in water, they lack the waxy
    protective coating that leaves employ. Detergent solution in contact
    with root cells can quickly dissolve the lipid membrane
    surrounding cells, killing the cells and inhibiting water/ nutrient
    uptake. Hair cells growing as appendages off larger roots do the
    lion’s share of assimilating water and nutrients, and these very
    delicate cells would be the first casualty of any detergent in the
    root zone.

    There
    are widely available insecticidal soaps, designed to be used
    topically and made from potassium fatty acids, that are specifically
    formulated to be safe for mammals & birds, death on most insects
    they contact, and safe for plants. If you need something soapy, it
    would be much better if you selected a product intended for use on
    plants than one intended for other purposes.


    Al

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