I would dip it in rooting hormone let it dry for 3 days then put it in water and ST.
Here is a link to clipping where I posted about the same question about singapores as you had:

PS... Usually with water rooting the rooting time is much less then conventional rooting

Here is a link that might be useful: Water Rooting Singapore

Freak does this method works for other Plumies or just the Singapore? I have one cutting that I bought by accident... so I'm wondering if I should put it in Al's Gritty Mix or water method like you mentioned. Thanks!

LOL Freak, Thanks so much, I still remember that thread, I just wasn't sure if it had to be calloused or not. I never had a chance to do the water rooting because that cutting was confiscated. I learned my lesson, no more plants from Thailand for me. Even when I tried with proper import permits from the USDA and with the phyto provided they were still destroyed by the USDA agents! Although they were kind enough to send me an empty box.

I ended up getting a rooted Singapore from JungleJack's instead, too bad JJ doesn't do eBay anymore. It got black tip last winter and just recently two new shoots started forming on the branch that got black tip and this was the same branch that broke off the other day.

The roots that form on cuttings rooted under soggy conditions or in water are quite different from those produced in highly aerated media (perlite - screened Turface - the gritty mix ....). Physiologically, you will find these roots to be much more brittle than normal roots due to a much higher percentage of aerenchyma (a tissue with a greater percentage of intercellular air spaces than normal parenchyma).

Aerenchyma tissue is spongy and filled with airy compartments. The compartments form as a result of highly selective cell death and dissolution in the root cortex in response to hypoxic (airless) conditions in the rhizosphere (root zone). There are 2 types of aerenchymous tissue. One type is formed by cell differentiation and subsequent collapse, and the other type is formed by cell separation without collapse ( as in water-rooted plants). In both cases, the long continuous air spaces allow diffusion of oxygen (and probably ethylene) from shoots to roots that would normally be unavailable to plants with roots growing in hypoxic media. In the case of fresh cuttings placed in water, aerenchymous tissue forms due to the same hypoxic conditions w/o cell death & dissolution.

Note too, that under hypoxic (airless - low O2 levels) conditions, ethylene is necessary for aerenchyma to form. This parallels the fact that low oxygen concentrations, as found in water rooting, generally stimulate trees and other plants to produce ethylene. For a long while it was believed that high levels of ethylene stimulate adventitious root formation, but lots of recent research proves the reverse to be true. Under hypoxic conditions, like submergence in water, ethylene actually slows down adventitious root formation and elongation.

Al

NC: I root 99percent of my cuttings (all varieties) this way. The only cuttings I have EVER lost water rooting where Spdery Yellow I got from Singapore that were 3 mon old and already desiccated. The seller in Singapore I purchased the cuttings from thought she was doing me a favor by trying to save on shipping by packing my order with a friends and shipped it to him. It took me 3 mon before I was able to get it from him. I put the shriveled up cuttings in water and 3 days later they were rotted. As long as the cuttings are viable they have rooted for me in water with no rot or losses and in a shorter period of time.

Musa: I still import from abroad and it is Russian Roulette here in LA when you do so. As for Singapores I gave up on Singapore white, I am happy with Hong Kong as it has a beautiful strongly scented (same scent as Singapore),shiny leathery leaf without black tip.

Al: I agree with you regarding the roots being different when you water root, usually if you let the cuttings developed fully formed roots they will be much finer and delicate. Usually I never let a cuttings water root for more then 3 weeks, and if I see root tips forming before 3 weeks I pot them up to avoid the flimsy roots. Basically water rooting only helps speed up the rooting process and on cuttings that maybe a little soft or wrinkled it helps to revive them so they can endure the rooting process. Again I never let my cuttings fully develop a root system in the water, I only keep them in the water and ST till I see the signs of root tips or sometimes just a really swollen cambium layer, that way they actually develop their root system in soil. I have to also say that when I put them in soil because they are use to the water I do keep their potting mix moist watering once a week or so. If I do not keep them moist I notice it's like a shock to the rooting process where the growth (leaves, Inflos) slow down or fall off.

Cheers all

I have to say that now, after I water-rooted a Celadine cutting following MIMI's directions, I much prefer this method. It's much faster !!!!

Are you all using rain or tap water?

I have a cutting I had to cut in two, taking out a center portion that got sunburn so severe that the stem collapsed completely, all the way around. Trying the base portion back in the soil medium and the top part in water in a hot window. Any suggestions would be welcome!

Jen

I know this is not a new thread, but I have a tiny part saved from a rotted cutting and I repotted it after drying it with rooting hormone and fungicide, and now it's soft again at the base. I would try water rooting, have nothing to lose now. The grower was so courteous to send me another one as replacement, but I'd try to save the tiny one left after cutting the rotted one.
freak4plumeria, do you still do the few days-a week of drying before placing it in water? After that, do you change the water in that glass? If so, how many times a week?

Thank you much for your help.

Jandey, I use distilled water by osmosis, SagoLover, I don't remember If I do or not change the water, but usually the roots form much quicker and so much more delicate that you don't want to wait too long for potting it!
Annamaria

Annamaria, believe me, I have this cutting in water for a week now and no roots. I removed it from the pot because no sign of roots in 5-6 weeks but the cutting got extremely dehydrated. I first gave it a bath in water with superthrive for about 2 days but that didn't help it to plump up. Since then, it's been 5 days in water with ST to root, and no signs of roots as of yet. What could be wrong with it? Oh, and it's very dehydrated, it even shrinked compared to how it was in the beginning. :(

I do not know why you guys waste your time trying to water root. When you water root a lot of roots form from the side of the bark. Those roots do not uptake nutrients because they have no way to attach to the old wood and the cambium line. When the cutting is planted in soil, it develops new roots around the cambium line. Those roots are anchored on new wood that grows over the old wood via callus formation at the cambium line. These roots uptake nutrients and grow. The roots that developed on the side of the bark via water rooting fizzle away because they cannot uptake nutrients. I have lots of pictures to prove this. If you do not believe me I challenge you to post a picture of a rooted cutting with lots of strong roots from the side of the bark. So why bother to water root?

George

George, this cutting was in regular potting soil for more than 5 weeks and no signs of roots whatsoever. Besides this, it got extremely dehydrated so the advice was to get it out of the pot and give it a bath for 1-2 days in water with superthrive, which I did. It didn't get any better (i.e. plumped back up). :(

SagoLover,
I have no problem of putting a dehydrated plumeria in water to plump it up. I have a problem with water rooting plumerias. It is just a waste of time and on top of that you lose many cuttings to rotting.

George

2 days in a bucket with water didn't do anything to this cutting. It's still dehydrated, and it literally shrunk. :(
I don't know what else to do to this cutting. Should I try again pottng it?

This post was edited by SagoLover on Mon, Aug 12, 13 at 19:53

George - please don't be so close-minded but do read the entire post by those forum members that do water root. In short order, people, such as Freak, only root until the cutting begins to show nubs, (I think he calls it popcorn?) then he pots them up. I'm sure you won't mind using the search function if you have any questions on how he does his rooting.

I have a lot of respect for your knowledge, and on occasion seek out posts by you, but there is more than one way to start a cutting.

Moonie_57,
I understand that. The point is those nubs or popcorn do not develop into roots that uptake nutrients. Only roots that develop at the cambium line develop roots that uptake nutrients. So, what is the point of putting the cuttings in water to develop those nubs? They are worthless. You need to develop a cambium callus ring, which will form the roots that uptake nutrients.

George

Well, George, I can't argue with you there since I lack the experience. :)

I just realized that I have never -really- looked at the root system of a newly rooted cutting before. Actually, I do believe that any time that I have had a good root system outside of the soil, that it was during moments of panic. LOL

This post was edited by moonie_57 on Tue, Aug 13, 13 at 19:49

Going back to my stubborn cutting: after having it in water with ST and noticing a few white bumbs along the cambium line and one on the side, I repotted it yesterday. I dipped it again in rooting hormone. Do you think I shouldn't have? I hope it will root fast because it looks really dehydrated..... :(

This post was edited by SagoLover on Thu, Aug 15, 13 at 19:31