Do you mean compacted soil by "tight soil", marinaz?

Clovers are only able to use nitrogen from the air if a certain bacteria are present in the nodules on their roots. Inoculant is applied to the clover seed before planting. It's generally peat moss plus the bacteria. You can also get inoculant to add at the time of seeding. Its easier just to get the seed with the inoculant already applied to it.

Here is an excellent thread on compacted soil that I started some time ago. Note the equipment photo put up by Ironbelly!

http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/restoration/msg011252548404.html

There are many ways to deal with compacted soil. Loosen it up, add compost and other nutrients as indicated by a soil test, plant a cover crop if necessary(like clover or alfalfa, turn it under, etc. But for a small urban plot, I would think loosening the soil mechanically, a soil test, and adding the proper nutrients and organic material would be adequate. How large is the area?

The "nasty weeds" are another issue. What are you going to do about the weeds and there seeds? Mow then solarize or smother? Dig up manually? Spray with an organic herbicide like Burn-out or Scythe?

Ginger

thank you.
the area is about 16' x 45'
I have been trying to dig up the weeds as I see them sprouting this year. many are tap rooting, so it's difficult. I cannot get any big machines in the yard, as it is blocked in on all sides, and my doors are narrow. I am going to manually aerate - dog and hack at it - with some firends! then i wanted to plant a nitrogen fixer, and I guess add the inoculant. The clover might look nice for this year, as I am not sure what I am doing and am working slowly on the plant beds.

i did set a 15' x 15' x 4 area last summer, and plan to add a bit to it this spring. here are some pix, which prove that even a nasty rocky ghetto patch can sustain some life. I saw a 14" worm today too.

{{gwi:1186926}}
{{gwi:1186927}}

I actually LIKE the look of clover--so long as you aren't allergic to bees. CLover is a MAJOR bee-magnet!

melanie

Well, bees might not be so great over a large area. what else can i plant that is:
good for the soil
okay to walk on
doesn't grow too high
can be sown from seed

thanks,
marina

I like your garden; I have had sites with similar looking soil that we have attacked with pick axes. But you can get soil structure back.

What is your purpose? Do you want to till the cover crop in or just keep it as a lawn alternative? Are you trying to improve the soil so you can plant a turf lawn or just wanting a lawn alternative that will grow in poor, compacted soil?

Take a look at this site out of Cornell. It's for NY State, as well.

http://www.gardening.cornell.edu/factsheets/ecogardening/impsoilcov.html

You may want to consider buckwheat, planting it in the spring to early summer. Loose3n the soil as best you can. Scatter the seed over your area at about one pound per 500 square feet. Rake and water it in. Cut it down within two weeks of flowering to avoid setting seed. Turn the buckwheat plants into the soil; they will decompose quickly. Add additional soil amendments and compost as needed. Then you can plant your fall crop/lawn/etc. This whole process takes about 2 months. Buckwheat does get about 3' high tho', but has nice white flowers.

As you said your area was weedy, you could cut back and till under weeds in the spring or early summer and then plant buckwheat to smother out the weeds. Followed by your ornamental planting in late summer.

Ginger

Thank you: that article was very helpful.
My purpose: to create a short ground cover that will nourish the soil, and prepare it for... either a lawn or ornamental ground cover alternating with pavers/a path, and extending my beds next year
so I guess you could call whatever I sow this year as a lawn alternative. 3' high buckwheat scares me, as I will have to wade through it to get to anything, and it won't be so pleasant to barbecue on or sit on a chair in. So if there are other options (someone suggested vetch)... It sounds like the grasses are less difficult- and so I need to figure out which will come close to my present multi-purpose needs! if you have any specific other suggestions, please let me know...

I just looked at the buckwheat- it is really beautiful.
Why does one have to turn it in - why is it bad if it sets seed?

You turn the buckwheat in to enrich your soil: increase the organic matter in the soil, improve soil structure. If it sets seed and the seed falls on the earth--you could have buckweed "weeds" in your ultimate lawn/groundcover of choice.

From the site I mentioned:

Sweet clover (Melilotus spp.)
"Sweet clover is the best legume for improving poor or disturbed soils that aren't acidic. It adds phosphorus, nitrogen, and large amounts of organic matter to the soil. Its deep roots loosen the soil and draw nutrients from the subsoil, which return to the top soil when you turn the green manure under. Sweet clover requires a well-drained soil with a pH near neutral. It absolutely won't tolerate acid soils.
Growing Guidelines: Sow in the spring or summer at a rate of 0.75 to 1.5 ounces per 100 square feet or 0.5-1 pound per 1000 square feet."

Clover or buckwheat are probably your best choices, but be sure to test your soil to see if it is acid or not if you are growing all clover. Buckwheat will grow on anything.

Actually--if you are good about mowing the clover, it won't have TIME to grow flowers. It mows nicely!

melanie

White clover: below a site on using it as a lawn. Not the same plant as the sweet clover referenced above. Both are good for your purposes, 'tho.

You are on the right track, just have to pick a cover crop plant that best suits your soil and the use the area will get for the couple of months while it is growing(considering bees, height of plant for walking through, aesthetics, etc.).

http://www.colostate.edu/Depts/CoopExt/4DMG/Lawns/clovlawn.htm

The innoculant provides a source of nitrogen fixing bacteria which will grow in nodules along the roots of legumes such as clover. There are different innoculants for peas beans and clovers. Usually they are needed if no crops of that type have been grown on that site. If you are going to grow a legume for soil improvement then you are going to have to correct the pH also, so do a soil test and add lime accordingly.
Alfalfa will send a root down as far as 30' and break up hardpans.
If you grow a few different clovers mixed together it will end up looking like wildflowers. White Swedish and Crimson would be a good mix.

Marina--what did you decide to do? The world of Garden Restoration waits to read with--bated keyboards? Doesn't have the same ring as "bated breath," does it? (And when I first typed it I spelled "bated" as "baited"...wormy keyboards--ugh! My proofing is improving!)

melanie

It looks like a prison exercise yard. I'd get some of the inmates to take a pick and shovel to it and get some real exercise! It looks like you are doing some long range planning. Just curious, what is your release date?

All kidding aside, I commend your efforts to make this place a piece of heaven. It can be done. Recruit some help. There must be somebody that might want to share in the work and the rewards. I like Bamboo's suggestion about planting different types of clover in drifts. Work the soil over real good first and add as much organic matter as possible and it will greatly speed things up. Pay attention to drainage. What about drafting one of the better local graffiti artists to paint the walls in a jungle scene or something along those lines to break up those grey walls. Some vines (e.g. Boston Ivy)will work also in conjunction with the painted scenes.

There are books on making small urban gardens. Read a few for inspiration. It looks like a fun project. Keep us posted.