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sjv78736

august came and went.....

20 years ago

"Posted by sjv78736 austin texas (My Page) on

Fri, May 26, 06 at 21:57

i have a plummie that is now in its fourth season and has never bloomed. i have just learned that if i didnt see an info before it began leafing out from its dormancy, that means it will not flower yet again this year.

it has gotten quite tall and i fear it getting so leggy it will begin to fall over. is it okay to behead it at this time of year? should i wait til fall (which is a second spring for us here in texas)? will lopping its head off help produce blooms next year? tia for any input.

jo (who has waited 4 yrs for a bloom and is now quite frustrated)"

in response to this post it was suggested that i wait til august to see if it bloomed...it didnt. i need instructions on properly cutting this plant. can i save the top and replant it? should i pluck the leaves off and let it go dormant, then repot in spring? should the topless trunk be moved to shade? or put away to go dormant? it is still quite hot here and some of our best growing weather will be now til mid/late nov. any help much appreciated! tia --

jo

Comments (6)

  • 20 years ago

    Jo,
    If you cut her, she surely won't bloom next year. That is unless you rooted those pieces that you cut and it was already predetermined in those tips that it would have bloomed next year.

    I know it's frustrating, but I wouldn't cut her. Just let nature do her thing. If you fear it falling over, then just stake it.

    How much sun is it getting and what is the watering and fertilizing schedule. Also, what kind of fertilizer.

    Blooming is caused from hormones within the plant. If it's not ready, then no amount of fertlizer will force it to bloom. Perhaps you may try foliar feeding with liquid kelp or adding some kelp meal to the soil.

    Is this a cutting or a seedling?

    Tony

  • 20 years ago

    My experience does not match the information you mention about the absence of an inflo coming out of dormancy means it will not bloom. My plants frequently have no signs of inflos coming out of dormancy yet bloom well during the summer.

    As Tony asked, there is a big difference between a cutting and a seedling. Seedlings can take years to have any blooms. Most will bloom within three years, but some I have heard about have taken many years to bloom.
    Mike

  • 20 years ago

    I read on one website some where in my trek across the www that Bill Moragne waited 16 years for one of his varities to bloom. I don't think I'd have that kind of patience, and hopefully that is an extremely rare situation.
    I also have had plants that flower later in the season, which don't have an inflo coming out of dormancy. I never heard that before. Good luck.

    John

  • 20 years ago

    Jo,

    Just thought I'd weigh in too! Does this plant just have a single stalk? If so, I'd try to give it one more season to bloom. And you very well may need to stake it, as has been suggested. Where did the plant come from? Cutting or seedling? And how tall is it? and what size pot is it in?

    The tip may form an inflo over winter to bloom next June. If the plant has several growing tips, you could try to trim the tallest one down and let the others grow. Sometimes that will trigger the others into forming inflos. Then you can root the one you cut off. It might help to see a photo of the plant though before we give advice!

    If it's rootbound, you might pot it up to a larger pot size next Spring. Many times that will invigorate a plant into fast growth and flowering.

  • 20 years ago

    thanks all for the responses.
    yes, it is one single stalk...and it is beginning to list as if the "canopy" is getting too heavy for it to hold up. it is about 4 ft tall from the top of the pot to the top of the stalk. there are about 20-22 large leaves on top. i repotted last year into a larger pot but with this years growth i feel certain it will need a larger pot next spring. as for if it is a cutting or seedling? i simply cannot remember. plumeria is completely new to me. if memory serves (remember this was 4 yrs ago now) i was told that the color of seedlings could not be predetermined - only the cuttings. is that right? if so, i feel like i probably chose a specific color, therefore a cutting -- but i've slept since then and could be wrong on that....and cannot even remember what color i chose!!! lol. as for fertilizing, sun, etc: it is in full Texas sun - we've had 34 straight days of 100+ temps. in spring (late feb/early mar) i give all my plants compost tea twice, two weeks apart and water them with liquified seaweed once a week for a month, then i switch to regular fert. i had been using miracle grow but have since switched to peters. with regular fert, i only fertilize once every two weeks throughout the summer. i didnt fertilize anything after the temps rose and stayed so high - it seemed too much to ask of the poor plants - so i guess it has not been fertilized in about 3-4 weeks. thanks to the bi-coastal storms, our temps have fallen by nearly 20 degrees and we've had a nice slow rain for the best part of 2 days...it is now time to fertilize again i think, until it cools to dormancy. so dont behead - just repot in spring?
    all thoughts welcome!
    Jo
    ps. one last thought on pots - i grow mostly succulents. sux generally should be "underpotted". do plumeria require esp large pots for best growth? i have a couple of really large (ugly) black plastic pots like from the nursery. should i consider this instead of "next size up" terra cotta as i have been doing for the past 4 years? TIA!

  • 20 years ago

    Definately put it in a large black plastic pot if you have one. I grew mine for years in clay pots and they were fine but the fine feeder roots do stick to the clay posts and make it very hard to transplant without the loss of quite a few roots. The black plastic pots will also have more drainage holes for better drainage.
    Just my .02 cents.

    karen

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