I start my seeds on a wet paper towel in a ziploc bag. Once they sprout a 1/2" or longer root, I transfer them to a small pot. I typically go with 4-6" pots. I've even used dixie cups with holes punched in the bottom. Keep the soil for the seedlings wet but not saturated. I fertilize after the first set of true leaves (not seed leaves) developes. As it starts becoming a small plant, start allowing the soil to almost completely dry out before watering again. When the roots fill out whatever container they're in transplant to a 1 gallon pot minimum. Bigger pots will allow bigger plants, but growing on my balcony I'm limited to 1 gallons if I want to put them on my wall where they get the most sun. I also have a few 3 gallon pots but since I can't place a 3 gallon on the wall, they get less sun but still do fine. I use 1/3 perlite to 2/3 soil to improve drainage but as long as your soil drains well you'll be fine. Give a heavy watering after transplanting and go back to letting the soil dry before watering again. Fertilize regularly. Repeat and enjoy. This is just what I do and it's worked for 16 years. Other people have different methods that work great. It's not an exact science. Depending on what zone you're in, it might be late to be starting seeds. I'm starting some seeds I got from a coworker out of curiosity and boredom but San Diego is mild enough that you can grow peppers year round. Good luck and welcome to the club. Fair warning, growing peppers can be addictive. Fortunately you came across this forum which is an absolute wealth of information. Good luck and welcome to the club. =)

I .. I am the great and powerful ..

Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain !

[Oh the hell with it.]

I stick the seeds in some warm moist dirt. Wait for them to pop. Preferably a very well drained soil. Then I slowly transition them into the sun and give them ferts once in while. The bigger the pot the bigger the plants and lots of drainage holes is a plus too. It ain't rocket science. But Temps below 50 or above 90 make your pepper plants not so happy.

It is very addicting though.

I found small peat pots to be of great practical use when starting seeds. Makes it easier to handle.

*Note - Windhager peat pots we have here in europe are real peat and very thin and will not bind roots. They easily penetrate through them so there's no need to crumble when transplanting. I'm saying this because in a discussion on the tomato forum i've learned that the ones in US are quite thick and therefore not as practical.

Yeah, you're *supposed* to be able to re-pot without removing the peat pot. But when I've tried that the roots don't get the idea. I remove the peat pots now, even though it does take a few roots with it.

Dennis (not in Europe)

WOW, thanks youll are great. I really appreciate it, and I will be letting youll know how it goes, Thanks Again

Sara

so when you put the seeds on a wet papertowel in a ziploc, do you leave it sealed completely and do you have to add water regularly?

When I have used that method, I didn't seal the bag - just kept the papertowel moist. You shouldn't have to water it for quite a few days.

Here's a link to the FAQs at the top of the Hot Pepper Forum page, which may be helpful...

Here is a link that might be useful: Hot Pepper Growing FAQs

For Dennis:

Outside bottom of my peat pot, just before transplantation.

Nice roots there Djole! :)

Thanks MG ;)

sleekit, I just got my seeds in and i put them in a ziploc on a wet papertowel like u said. now, how long will i have to wait until i can plant?

The seeds will tell you. Some take forever to germinate. Bhut jolokia is 30 days or longer, according to some sites. Just check them every couple days.

Keep them warm. 80-85 degrees is good for germination. Make sure you keep the papertowel moist but not soaking. If you took the paper towel out, there should just be condensation left in the bag. leave it open slightly and watch for roots to appear.
I did an experiment to test some of my seed last year. I didn't actually plant any of these but I wanted to make sure the seed was viable. I got less than desirable germination rates using the baggie and paper towel method but it told me if the seed was viable which was the point. I get much better germination rates planting straight into soil.
Here is a photo of two of the seed types that I germinated in baggies last year. It will let you know what to expect.

okay, they already have germinated, except the tepin. I transferred them to pots. do they have to have sunlight(direct/indirect) or can i leave them inside without a lamp?

Without light they will get leggy and fall over. They don't need direct sun, but a bright window or artificial lights is called for.

Be careful you don't over-water.

thanks, how much water is necessary and how often should i water them?

thanks, how much water is necessary and how often should i water them?

This is something you'll have to learn for yourself. The top of the soil should be dry, but the bottom still moist. To get a feel for it, you can let the plant start to wilt to tell you that it needs more water.

saramegan:

Are you in the southern hemisphere? It's a tad late to START peppers for North America. Most of us START indoors with lights in winter.

As far as watering is concerned, peppers are very sensitive to damping off. I normally drop my seedlings in about an inch of water for a couple minutes so they "wick" from the bottom up to prevent damping off. Misting with a spray bottle is sufficient when they get established some. Once the seeds emerge, let the soil get almost bone dry between waterings.

I'm no expert though -- I'm just speaking from experience and the knowledge I've picked up from sites like GardenWeb. I'm sure some of the other guys/gals here can point you to some tried and true methods for success.

Good Luck.

Kevin