Thank you very much for the information. Would it help to cut out some of the older branches too?

Do you have any advice for moving my Blanc Double de Coubert?

I wouldn't move it. What I would do in your case, is BEND very slowly some of the more flexible canes of the blanc double, over a period of a few weeks, and see if you can actually get part of a cane buried, especially an upper part that may have some active growth. If you make a wound in this actively growing part of the cane, like a diagonal cut in the region of a bud, and keep this cracked open, with gently bending pressure with your fingers, and if it is possible to bury this cracked part of the cane 3-4 inches below the soil line, it will sprout roots there. Start the cut closer to the root, and cut upwards in a shallow diagonal, about a third of the way through the cane - the best knife for this is a heavy duty utility knife like an Olfa H1. This is called layering, as opposed to "air layering" which is an adjacent thread in this propagation forum. Or if you're up to the more complicated "air layering" then go for it, as well. Next season, you will find strong new growth coming from the base, where you cracked the stem, and the basal buds will also send up nice canes. By using this method, you do not risk losing the bush due to transplant shock, you have increased the size of your stock, and you now have a young bush that you can devote your training methods. The time to cut out older branches would be in the spring, during spring pruning time, before the bush starts active growth. If you severely prune a bush during active growth, the result is a severe check on growth, which you do not want. Sativa.

Once again I thank you for taking time to answer my questions. You have been very helpful!

Kimmers

Apply alfalfa (in meal or pellet form). Alfalfa contains triacontanol, a growth hormone. Some people make a "tea" using alfalfa (search here or over on the main Roses Forum for the recipe), some just apply it dry.

Also, some plants need time to grow new roots in order to support new top growth.

Superphosphate isn't organic.

Some roses, like Nevada need to have 7- 10 year old canes removed to help them regenerate themselves, otherwise they loose their vigor. That may also be true of Bill and Blanche (I like to think we're on a first name basis). My Frau Dagmar Hastrup is undergoing such a regeneration right now.

I am hestitant to apply much in the way of fertilizer unless I have a soil analysis done. However, mulching with anything organic is good. Feed the soil, not the plant.

I have transplanted many roses. It is always a lot of work, but sometimes, a rose is not in the right spot. A plant as large as your BDDC would be hard to dig up, but it will survive and thrive in its new location. Treat it as a bare-root rose. I know books say to take as much as the root-ball with the plant as possible, but that is easier said than done. Plant the rose in the native soil and apply any ammendments to the surface around and above the plant. Certainly, Cannibisgrower's method of creating a new plant and moving it is the easiest way to go.
Steve.

Kimmers, I'm no expert, not by a long shot, but I live in a similar climate (central MN). I grow quite a few roses and have moved a few in my time. Your BDC:I would prune it back in the fall after a hard freeze, then transplant it after it breaks dormancy in the spring. that way it will have plenty of time to recover and establish itself before the next winter. This method has worked for me. GaryStPaul