I like to grow the tall crops on the north and east sides of the garden. This way from about 10am onward during the summer they don't shade anything else.

To maximize your area for trellised crops consider laying out one bed north south and another east west.

The north south box would be planted on the east side. The east west box would be planted on the north side. The north south box would be to the east of the east west box like so !_ This would give you 32 sq ft for trellised crops. You don't really need to count the peas in this since they will be done by the time the summer crops get going so you can plant these in the 'second row' in whichever box you like and when they are done, just pull them up and put something else there.

The box that is oriented east west can also have both short ends trellised. The box that is north south oriented can have the short end on the north trellised. This won't shade anything beyond a couple hours at most.

The third box you are planning can also be trellised, but now is a good time to go outside and place an 8' stake in the ground and see how far the shadow casts throughout the day. This will give you a good idea of how far the 3rd box would need to be from the others to not cast shade on them.

I wouldn't recommend more than a single trellised row in any box simply because it becomes difficult to harvest. Most climbing veggies such as beans will climb on anything they can get their selves on so you could easily end up with the beans and zucchini (as an example) interwoven.

Certainly you could trellis the north side of each bed. I guess it would largely depend on what you plan to grow.

Last year I grew 6 tomatoes & 6 basil plants in a 4x4 bed using 2 trellises made from scrap 2x2's with strings (or ropes) run down to the plants. The basil were kinda crowded but the tomatoes did fine, you just have to stay right after them (pruning). In fact, grew several other 4x4's with a min. of 6 tomatoes trellised, some with cukes or basil.

This year I will experiment with a 4x12 bed with the goal to get 'most' of my vining crops in one bed (along with some summer squash & zucchini). I usu. put watermelons & canteloupe in another area but may frame that & try to trellis them together. I grow pumpkins on a rock pile & have thought about trying to fabricate something for them to 'grow up' a few feet off the ground.

Not sure the summer will be long enuff for all my fantasies, esp. since I do not enjoy working in the rain. The nice thing about gardening is you can do it anyway YOU want. I say get creative & think outside the box (just do NOT walk in it;-).
Good Luck,
Gumby_CT

Here is a link that might be useful: Trying to improve on squash from last yr.

Have you read the book? Most of your questions are addressed and answered in the latest edition. I agree with those above, you only trellis one side, usually the north side. If you trellis two sides, then the other would be the east side.

But best to only trellis the north side so everything else can get enough sun and ventilation.

See examples here:
Examples Page 1
Examples Page 2
Examples Page 3
Examples Page 4
Examples Page 5

Thank you all for your responses! First, yes, I have read the book (not every single page yet, but most of it, just not the special gardening section). I didn't see anywhere in the book or online where people put most trellised items together, that's why I asked :) It makes absolute sense now that I should spread them out among the boxes though for tending to and harvesting. I honestly hadn't thought of that!

I also love the recommendation about putting an 8 foot stake in the ground to see where the shadows will be. This will be very helpful for me!

The one thing I'm not so sure of, is why you put your tall plants on the east side. Right now, my garden is set up like this (with my peas on the north end of the garden)The cucumbers are actually facing east along the side of the garden, meaning I have the trellis going north/south.
________________peas_________________________
Cukes

cukes ____________bush beans_______________________

____________bush beans_______________________

______Zucchini, swiss chard, and parsley_____

_____carrots & caeser________ caeser__________

______carrots & caeser______carrots____strawberries

The sun comes up in the east and sets in the west. Why would I move my cukes to the other (east) side of the garden? Once they are climbing up the trellis they would be shading everything behind them, no? Am I just missing something here?

Thank you all for your help! I'm a very new veggie gardener and am really looking forward to getting my SFG set up in the fall so I can be ready for next spring :)

dj

The north is the most prefered end for tall crops as this won't shade anything.

The east is the second prefered and can be used when all of your northern real estate is taken up.

Yes, using the east side creates shade, but only in the morning. In the summer the sun is high overhead and shadows tend to be short. Where I live in Wisconsin there is no shade from trellising on the east beyond (guesstimating here) 10am. With the sun setting later than 7pm all summer this still allows 9+ hours of sun on everything.

I think once you put that 8' post into the ground and observe shadows during the day you will notice how long the shadows are and how long they last and it will make more sense to you.

One factor not yet considered is the presence of shade from things outside your garden area. If you have a tall shade tree (as an example) that shades your garden area from 3pm onward, then it might make more sense to trellis the north and WEST ends since the tree is going to cast shade from the west anyway. In this case you wouldn't want anything blocking the morning sun since you have a tree blocking the late afternoon sun as well. I hope that makes sense.

That is a very good explantion. Tho myself, I prefer the north & west sides - to shade from the very hot afternoon sun. I am not sure of the orientation of the above diagram but the cucumbers will tend to face & grow towards the sun.

I know when my zucchini or summer squash grow well, they need 3-4 sq. ft. The leaves get really HUGE. And it may not matter much but mine always wilted in the late afternoon sun.

I grow my carrots up off the ground in a narrow & long box I made for a couple reasons.
1. The slugs would eat them right after they germinated. Gone in 1 night.
2. Unless your soil is sifted & stone free, the carrots will seem to find any stone left behind.

On the strawberries - you do not want to have to move them each year.

The point about the neighbors or surrounding trees is often & easily overlooked.

The great thing about gardening is you can make changes next year.

Good Luck,
Gumby_CT

Thanks again! Over where my cukes are is where I start getting shade first in the afternoon from an oak and the garage. This is around 3:30 PM, so I really do need the morning sun on everything, just so I get my minimum 6 hours.

I will be setting up my garden differently next year. Right now we have a huge dumpster in the yard (that's been there for months! ARGH!), but once that is gone, I will have more space for my garden. I'm just trying to get it all in my head so I can set the boxes and keep them there :)

I've had the strawberries for years, they were just planted in an island bed in the yard. We're slowly moving everything from the island bed so I put the strawberries with the veggies this year and we had THE best crop in years (I was able to get to them before the birds and squirrels :) Once I figure out where all my boxes will be, the strawberries will be in their spot permanently.

I am going to put up a few stakes today so I can start watching the shade from different ares. But, I hear yet more rain is on the way, so I might not get to see for a few days!

You are all so very helpful! I appreciate it!

dj