I'm using Turface instead of vermiculite, but from your other post, I'm now wondering if carrots will like it. The bags of Turface I have contain particles about the size of small peas.

Calcined DE (NAPA floor-dry, part #8822) has tremendous internal porosity & holds water well - even better than Turface, and it has a better CEC than Turface, too. It's more expensive than vermiculite on a per volume basis, though.

Al

Have you thougt of using a lower grade of Vermiculite.My second batch of mels mix I went to a home inprovment store (Menard's) It is sold there as atic insulation. It is a lot finer but I like it. mixes well with my soil and compost. the cost around 1/2 of the first bag. around 3.33 per cubic foot.

Vermiculite sold as insulation is often/usually treated with chemicals to make it hydrophobic (water repellent).

Al

I've just started using the floor dry (calcined DE) for my houseplants, but from what I can tell it should be longer lasting than vermiculite. I only bought one bag of vermiculite this season and mixed it w/ several yards of home made compost for my SFG. Jbest is one that has had success w/ straight compost. My finances don't allow me to buy all the peat and vermiculite I'd need to follow Mel's mix.

The only peat in my SFG is from the seed starting mix that my toms/basil/peppers were started in indoors. I also used handfuls of seed starting mix to make a ball around the direct seeded big seeds, or a fine dusting w/ the small seeds.

I'm planning on using a custom seed starting mix next year, using fines and floor dry in the bottom of the cup, and seed starting mix where the seed is at the top of the cup. Potting up will be in fines/floor dry only.

Compost compost compost.

get your operation crankin up and you wont need vermiculite no more. I used vermiculite for my first couple of beds, now i don't just compost no peet no vermiculite.

ron

For tapla. As I am new to soil mixes, could you please post a link to chemicals in attic vermiculite. I do not want any chemicals in my soil that may not be healthfull. thank you.

Are you saying you doubt what I said, or that you want me to do the research for you?

Al

tapla; No.

Al,

No reason to get huffy. I think curt grow just saw that you had info that was interesting and thought that you may have more to share. Just my 2 cents for what its worth.

Good gardening, Mary

C'mon, Mary. I think you misunderstand. Curt's question was ambiguous, and my request for additional clarity has no 'huff' in it. How he answered the question would have determined how I would reply, but since he answered simply 'no', no reply seemed appropriate. As I think about it, there's more 'huff' in your taking me to task with Al, No reason to get huffy ...." than in anything I offered. ;o)

Take care.

Al

Al, your response also struck me as huffy, so it's not just Mary. In the future, if you are asking for clarification, it's probably best to not imply that the question is posed because either a) someone doesn't trust you or b) they expect you to do all the research for them. It is just common courtesy to provide a source when you give information that others are not privy to. If your information comes from personal experience, just say so. If it comes from something you read, then don't take offense if someone asks to read that as well.

To answer curt_grow's question in a hopefully more helpful way:

"Two types of vermiculite are used as insulation: untreated and treated. Untreated vermiculite readily absorbs water and dries very slowly. The treated material is coated with asphalt to make it water-repellent for use in high moisture areas. Both types of vermiculite are usually installed by hand, a simple process. It is non-combustible, odorless and non-irritating." This came from the website: http://www.daviddarling.info/encyclopedia/I/AE_insulation.html

So the toxicity of the product you bought in the insulation department depends on whether it was treated or not. Take a look at the bag and see if you can tell from that.

All: We're all here to help each other (presumably) grow the best garden we can grow, so let's keep that in mind. Have a great day, everyone!

Scheesch - I guess we're having a bad day, hmmm? Isn't it a little hypocritical to take someone to task for a post YOU misunderstood after it was explained there's nothing huffy in it. I wasn't taking him to task, regardless of what you do or don't believe, but you did assume the role of monitor and take me to task, so who's the heavy here? BTW, I've posted literally thousands of helpful posts on GW without instructions or advice about what's best. Have the last word if you wish, & relax. I promise I'll bite my tongue.

Al

Thank you katy f. That was just what I was looking for my vermiculite is untreated.I am relived and grateful . thank you again.

I am trying Oil Dri from Sams Club. It's only $4 for a huge bag (like 40lbs) and it says on the bag it can be used with potted plants to help absorption. It is normally used for oil spills on concrete, but if it works for plants too.. that's great! I actually recently mixed some with peat, perlite and compost for a potting mix for dividing my snake plant. So far these plants seem good with it.

Here is a link that might be useful: Oil-Dri Granular Absorbent

Vermiculite is expensive and my budget did not allow us to add as much recommended in our beds. I do however live in a dry climate and therefore I view it as a necessity. My method has been when I plant a square in a new box, I mix a trowel's worth before planting. This lets me get away with using less and keeps it concentrated in the area where the roots will be.

I also tend to view peat as a necessity because I water with very hard water (alkaline to an extreme)and thus need the acidity from the peat. YMMV.

I keep trying to grow veggies or herbs but I am chronically ill and keep getting Horible infections in my hip especially so I literally have surgery all time now ( the last 3yrs have been the worst) so when I start to feel better seasons pass or I start and boom I have to go to the hospital and have a extensive surgery etc..( seriously my hip has hole that is over 350 cubic centimeters around and deep! I could fit my hand in it at first. Ouch at 27 it's really a bitch) anyway I'm healing and I wanted to start some lavender, and other healing herbs and have them on my deck then inside when it cools down I'm from MN. Now I hear you have to buy vermiculite and make or buy compost!! Is this necessary?

Or could I do compost and miracle grow potting soil,sand and rocks/orpebbles? Does anyone have advice????i have seeds and my doc and grief/pain counselor think this would be great for me to do since I'm homebound, family&basically friendless now besides my BF. Also I love gardens and herbs etc... seriously any advice on growing my lavender and herbs from seeds indoors or in pots on deck with out spending $$$&$ Or buying so many products.

I mean can it grow from seeds w/ the pointing soul l, compost, sand, rocks etc..

thank you so much! I appreciate any and all advice!!!!

btw sorry for the personal stuff, it's just more difficult for me to go out and get it or afford it even w/being so ill and exspensive treatment&Med bills w/out working now.