if you're using the usual rubbermaid plastic tote w/ a cover and no holes, it HAS to be wet - poke some holes in the sides above the bedding level [ice pick or hot nail] and either some in the lid, or leave the lid ajar so the bin can breathe the excess moisture away - wood bins can handle no ventilation as the wood will 'breathe' the moisture out, but plastic just concentrates it - condenses on the side and goes right back in - the porch would be fine, light isn't a problem, just keeps the worms below the surface

Bill

Yes, I should have mentioned, I do have air holes on the top and sides of my bin (it is a rubbermaid bin), but I'm still not able to get my bin to a non-sloshy state. I'm worried about drowning my worms.
PrairieClover

I would just keep checking it and adding paper or other dry products. Try not to add to much wet food until you get it under control. Leaving the lid of for a few days is also very helpful. I think the porch would be a great place for the bin. It doesn't have to stay dark.

Good luck,
Mariann

I'm trying to keep this very, very, very low key.

Get a few bricks and strategically position them under the bin to lift it up a few inches off the ground. Drill a hole at the bottom or bottom side right in the corner, and place a small, shallow plastic dish under the hole. This will allow for the worst of the puddling to drain off with little fanfare.

I agree with Pris ... one hole in the lowest spot of the bin or one hole on one side of the bottom with the bin tilted will help with excess moisture.

Personally I leave the lid off or ajar to control moisture.

Peat moss or coir added to a bin can help suck up extra moisture.

Another thing i do is food process all food before it goes into the bin. If its too wet ill leave it out on the fridge, a heater vent, or the cabinet to get some of the water to evaporate.

Bryan

Drill a bunch of 1/8" holes in the bottom about 1" apart. Your worms won't escape but the excess moisture will. Buy another Rubbermaid container and use the lid as a bottom to catch liquid. Take four soup cans and remove the lids from both ends and put them on the lid that catches the liquids. Set the worm bin on top of these cans.

You've gotten some good advice on putting holes in the bin to allow excess moisture to drain from the system, and I add my voice to such recommendations. The only addition I might make is to suggest that you should not be afraid to punch a LOT of holes in your bin. When dealing with a plastic bin more holes tend to be better than one or two.

Beyond this there something else to consider; a continual challenge to preventing saturation suggests there is either a lot of water being added to the bin, likely due to the inclusion of wet feedstocks, or there is insufficient level of bedding to absorb that moisture relative to the volume of food being added (or perhaps a combination of the two). If the bin is being fed using the pocket feeding method, then it should be filled to the top with dampened bedding material. Pocket fed bins that are bedded only a few inches deep will often have difficulty managing the moisture associated with household kitchen scraps.

Another consideration is your feedstock. If you are currently adding a lot of very wet food (melon, soft fruits, lettuces, etc.) you may want to try mixing it with dry bedding until the mixture reaches the desired moisture level before adding it to the bin. This ensures that there is not a lot of excess moisture entering the system.

As to the level of light on your enclosed porch, it is likely to be wholly irrelevant. While worms prefer a dark environment they tend to be most active a few inches below the bedding surface, which is dark whether the bin is in a dark room or sitting in the sun. Very productive worm systems are often comprised of uncovered outdoor windrows and light is not an issue. An opaque bin on an enclosed porch will not be light stressed in the least.

Kelly S