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rexie_gw

How do I test pH?

20 years ago

How do I go about testing the pH in a bin? Do I need to wait until there is liquid in the bottom?

Thanks!

Comments (8)

  • 20 years ago

    There are a number of pH test kits available on the market, though you will want to be careful with them as many are horribly innacurate.

    Having said this, however, you should know that there is no reason to test the pH of your bin. The idea that pH is an issue in vermicomposting is a myth I would give my eye teeth to kill! The internet perpetuates the erroneous idea that worms do best in a pH neutral environment and that acid conditions or even acid feestocks are harmful to overall system function. This is absolutely, verifiably, incontrovertibly UNTRUE!

    In nature worms are found in environments with a pH range from 4 to 9, and their activity level within this range is equal. In other words, worms working in an environment with a pH of 4 are no more stressed or less productive than are worms working in an environment with a pH of 9. Further, when given a choice, worms actually demonstrate a preference for acidic environments, finding a pH range of 5 to 5.5 the most preferential. While their activity at this pH level is no more or less than at any other within the stated range, their preference is NOT for neutral 7, as so many erroneously claim. There are worm bins around the world effectively and efficiently processing highly acidic materials like grape pumice, apple pumice, tropical fruit wastes (including massive amounts of pineapple) tomato pulp, and raw livestock manure with no challenges resulting from the acidic nature of these feedstocks.

    So, you can certainly test the pH in your bin, but it is not necessary and adjusting the pH to neutral has no advantage.

    KellyS

  • 20 years ago

    Yah know...that makes total sense. Darned books push you to purchase all sorts of extras you really don't need.
    Thanks bunches!

    Laters!

  • 20 years ago

    Rexie, successful vermicomposting is 90% instinct and 5% observation. Regardless of who says it or whether or not a recommendation comes from a book or internet site, any advice that just doesn't sit well with you, even if you're new to vermicomposting, should be rejected. There are no hard and fast rules in any biological system, and rubbing the advice of others against common sense and your own observtions of your bin and nature itself will tend to leave you with the right answers in the end.

    Good luck and, most importantly, ENJOY!

    KellyS

  • 19 years ago

    so Kelly, the guy who sold me my ENCs said that if I use peat moss as bedding I should leach it first to reduce the acidity. If I read your post correctly, leaching is not necessary. Please confirm when you can, as leaching peat moss is my least favorite activity of worm farming.
    Thanks!
    Kurt

  • 19 years ago

    I'm no expert but have kept a couple bins for several years and never have even heard of leaching peat moss, and of course, have never done it either. My worms are fine.

  • 19 years ago

    got it. and found the post from last year about peat moss. for those of you who missed it, here it is:

    RE: De-acidifying Peat bedding

    Posted by Kelly_Slocum sw WA state (My Page) on Fri, Sep 23, 05 at 16:03

    Alyss, the warnings against peat being too acidic are based on myth. Peat is typically not too acidic for worms. Some peats can be high in salts, however, thus, rinsing it is sometimes recommended, dependant upon the peat being used.
    In all honesty, it would be out of the ordinary for the old bag of peat you propose using to have any characteristics potentially harmful to your worms. If you're concerned, consider using it as a portion of your bedding instead of making it the sole bedding material, and watch how your worms react. Should you feel they are exhibiting signs of stress, the addition of a few shovels of good compost will typically buffer the types of challenges that might, however improbably, be posed by the peat.

    Know, too, that dry peat is a bit hydrophobic, meaning it resists moistening. Try pouring water over a pile of dry peat and it will simply run off, barely getting the surface wet at all! The best way to moisten dry peat, which becomes highly absorbptive once dampened, is to soak it for a couple of hours. This not only moistens the stuff, but will rinse any salts at the same time.

    Does that make sense?

    Kelly S

  • 19 years ago

    Hello Group, im new here today. Maybe this is just a morale objective for me, but using peat as a bedding doesnt seem to environmentally concious. Isnt one of the reasons we produce castings is to reduce our dependancy on peat. A really good article on the reprocussions of harvesting peat can be viewed here. http://journals.cambridge.org/action/displayAbstract?fromPage=online&aid=107769

    Hope to not of offended anyone, just felt an urge to address this. Thank you everyone for making this forum a nice place to learn and take information from.

    Squirmee!!

    Here is a link that might be useful: The future of cool temperate bogs

  • 19 years ago

    Squirmee,

    I agree 100%. I use only waste for my worms which is part the reason for having them.

    Regards,
    Marshall

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