So, how're you making out?

Bill,

I ripped out the mortar, membrane and lower ~18" of backerboard (again). I am going to re-installing the original fiberglass shower pan. My other post about the treat lumber curb is where I am now. I will cut that out down to the floor due to numerous 3 inch screws and liquid nail the previous guy used to secure the 2x4s to each other and to the subfloor and I pretty sure I don't want treated lumber in the bathroom area.

As for the rest of the bathroom, we have 1/4" backboard on the horizontal surface of the tub deck (on top of 5/8" plywood underlayment) and the vertical backsplash and front surface tiled except grout. I will post some photos on Flickr so you can see what we are doing. Oh yeah, the floor has 1/2" backerboard down and is ready for heating coils and tiling.

On the tub deck....
1. Do you put a grout or caulk line on the corners where the horizontal bull nose meets the vertical straight cut tile or overhang a bullnose piece and grout or caulk underneath?

In the shower...
1. Do you caulk the corners where the tiles meet or grout? I planned on using clear silicone in the corners but have heard that grout is just as effective.

2. When I removed the shower pan during demo, there was nothing underneath. I am now reading that one should lay mortar or foam underneath the pan. You thoughts?

On the tub deck....
1. Do you put a grout or caulk line on the corners where the horizontal bull nose meets the vertical straight cut tile or overhang a bullnose piece and grout or caulk underneath?

No, that gets caulked. I don't know why it's different with outside corners, but it is.

In the shower...
1. Do you caulk the corners where the tiles meet or grout? I planned on using clear silicone in the corners but have heard that grout is just as effective.

Caulk it, but not with silicone. Use a siliconized latex made by the same manufacturer as your grout, in the same color and texture.

2. When I removed the shower pan during demo, there was nothing underneath. I am now reading that one should lay mortar or foam underneath the pan. You thoughts?

Although it doesn't HAVE to be, it's to your benefit if it is. You won't get as much flexing out of it if it's filled.

Bill,

I ripped out the PT curb and am awaiting a plumber to reinstall the line for the wedge-lok drain on the base of the shower pan.

I did more reading and noticed that no one has anything good to say about pre-mixed adhesive...well...you guessed it our handyman swore by the stuff and the entire shower (except recesses) and the front and backsplash of the tub deck are tiled with the TEC invision brand type adhesive. I know you can't use this stuff for a shower floor but is it okay on the shower walls? Am I am facing a back-to-square one redo?

Here is a link that might be useful: TEC Invision Website

Let me put it to you this way. It's a crap shoot. If you take it all down now, chances are good you're not only going to wreck the tile, but you're going to destroy the cement board, as well. That's about the worst that'll happen if you leave it up and it fails (which isn't certain). Guaranteed it won't have the same kind of longevity it would if it were installed with thinset, but now that it's up. I'd leave it and let the chips fall where they may. If it fails, redo it then. It won't hurt the cement board.

Just thinkin' out loud here....but I think I'd probably try pulling one or two tiles off the wall and see where it goes. If it's up with mastic, it's probably still so gooey and pliable that it'll fall right off....and if the backerboard is cement, (Durock, etc)and not a fibreboard-type stuff, I don't see how pullin' a tile would damage it at all...meybe a bit messy, but certainly cleanable~~~might even be able to salvage the tiles as well, if that's an issue.