Clay needs to be bone dry before firing, this is called a Bisque firing. It is much slower than any of the glass firing ramping up. You will want to drive off chemical and physical water slowly; 1700 will work well for clay molds, however, most ceramic hobby shops bisque at cone 04(about 1800). You want to fire with a cone in place on the shelf so you will know if the heat has done it's work; cone 08 should do the job. ----------July

Sorry I can't be of any help with the clay mold, but I have a beautiful fluted green glass plate edged in gold my mother made years ago with that method.

She took ceramics classes at the local park board (they disbanded them and a lot else, playground supervision at the parks for kids in the summer, but our taxes are at an all-time high). Anyway, I think the park board had what you call the slump molds.

I'd be interested in finding out more about this technique, but don't really have time to look for any classes. Most of the ladies around here just paint greenware, and I tired of that.

I do have a pottery wheel in the garage and took some classes for awhile, son sold my kiln, I wasn't real keen on learning how to use it, had to have rewiring, and didn't want to run something that hot in the house so I would have to take out any projects I do for firing.

I could order some clay, roll it out, and press this plate and some other pretty things I have in it. Sounds like fun if I can find the time.

What does your slump mold look like?

Also, can you make your own custom-designed bricks in ceramic kilns? I think that would be fun, too, but not at all cost effective.