A friend used the Viking hood for the Wolf 48" since it has the right look I want and strong ventilation. Note that Viking hoods have two "kinds" - ones w/the Viking logo called the professional series and ones w/out logo called designer series. Wolf has vents too. Good luck.

Does anyone have any experience with either of the hoods listed above?

If it were me I would opt for the CP4 series. CP4 series has better lighting. 4-light bulbs & 4-light levels vs. PIK45 has 3-lights & 1-Light level (full blast on or off). Better filters (baffle & mesh) vs. baffle only of PIK-45.

The CP4 can be hooked up to LogicLink and automatic make-up air dampers (if you need that). The PIK-45 is an older model & older technology.

List price for the PIK-45 & P8 will be $1,567 and will be only have 800-CFM. I don't think that will be enough CFM to work effectively with the DF48.

List price for the model: CP47I48482SB will be $2,092
My money would be spent on the CP4-Series.

If you don't want to spend that much look at the CP3-Series it would be cost wise more inline with the PIK-45. Model: CP37I482SB will be $1,585 and have 1,200-CFM.

Good luck.

Thank you. How do I find out if I would need make up air dampers?

I would want baffle filters only, not mesh. Mesh filters tend to clog quickly with grease, rendering them inefficient, and if left long enough without cleaning, useless. You will have more maintenance, i.e. need to clean, with mesh filters. You will never see mesh filters in restaurant kitchens, only baffle filters.

You may also want to look at the Independent brand of metal liners. Independent used to make the hoods for Wolf, and Wolf would put the Wolf badge on them and sell them. A couple years ago, Wolf decided to make their own hoods in-house. Independent still makes hoods with the fit and finish to the high standards of Wolf, but under their own Independent Hoods brand name.

Independent's Hood Comparison - go to Page 4 for Metal Liners

Independent's Metal Liners

Sorry, another question. The description that I read of the CP4 series doesn't indicate there are mesh filters just baffle. How can I confirm?

Make-up in our area is mandated by some of the local cities building codes. If you begin pushing out 1,200 cubic feet of air per minute out of your home you can create a negative air pressure in your home. Think of a pop (soda) bottle when you were a kid and sucking all the air out of it. That can happen in your home and air will seek the easiest way to make its way back in. That could be through you fireplace, hot water tank or your furnace. Back drafting carbon monoxide and other dangerous gases. See the video link below.

Regarding AKChicago's comment regarding going only with baffles filters - I used to be of the same opinion. Think of were baffle filters came from the restaurant industry. They operate their ventilation systems at full speed all the time. The air is moving so quickly that the grease droplets are being thrown out of the air and deposited directly on the baffle filter. But what happens when you have a residential hood that can operate at a slower speed. Grease droplets can be slowly carried along with the air movement and slip through the baffle. The dual filtration (baffle out front and mesh behind) helps do a double catch. What could be bad about that? My guess is that most homeowners will not be running the ventilation at full speed. And because of that slower speed why not have the peace of mind that you’re catching as much grease as possible. Will you have to clean the mesh and baffle filters? Absolutely! But it beats having to look like a road side diner with grease running down the wall. There is a whole industry dedicated to clean commercial restaurants ventilation systems. Don't believe me? Go ahead and Google the following words: grease restaurant exhaust fan. Look at the how many pictures you’ll find on Google. What is the one thing all these exhaust fans have in common? You guessed it - baffle filters. I will acknowledge that fact that restaurants run their kitchens from sun up to sun down. I'm sure that you will no where put that kind of mileage on your exhaust system. But is goes back to my earlier question. What could be the harm of a double catch filtration system?

Here is a link that might be useful: Air Vent Video

You can contact Best Technical Support directly 800-637-1453. The marketing buzz word that they use is "Evolution Baffle Filter"

Take a few minutes to read this web site about make-up air.

Here is a link that might be useful: Oversized Kitchen Fans--An Exhausting Problem

Scrap all of these other choices and invest in nothing but a Vent a Hood. No matter what pro range I sell, I make sure a Vent a Hood goes over it. Anything else is a step below. A few steps below.

Sounds like someone is pimping the Vent-A-Hood. Out of all the brands to push the "magic lung" series is a big nasty PIA to clean. Who wants to climb into a hood to remove luggage latches and don't forget your allen wrench. Give me a break. Of all the previous brands mentioned above you really can not go wrong with Best, Independent or Wolf for a built-in hood. If you head off in the Vent-A-Hood direction at least go with a remote fan with baffle filters. But I would stay clear of the "magic lung" because of not so easy cleaning.

What amazes me is that the "magic lung" concept has been around for very long time. Does it take the grease out the air? Yep, sure does. It's just a huge PIA to clean the collection box.

One more thought. If this concept of the "magic lung" is soooo great why hasn't anyone else (GE, Whirlpool, Wolf, Dacor, Independent or Viking) jumped on the band wagon? And please don't tell me about "patent right protections" because it’s not that unique to do a variation knock off.

Hey EZWider, Can you answer a few questions for us. Do you personally have a Vent-A-Hood in your own home? Have you ever cleaned a "magic lung" blower system?

And here is the BIG question of the day. How much spiff money are you collecting off the sale of every Vent-A-Hood that you make? For those not familiar with the term "spiff" here is the definition: Special Promotional Incentive Financial Fund paid directly to the sales person that sells a product of particular brand to an end-use consumer. All brands have sales spiffs to pay to retail sales people. It is the appliance industry�s dirty little secret. Once you have the sales person hooked on your brand via the spiff it�s like they are on crack cocaine.

What would be the spiff that is being paid this month for the following built-in hoods?

Best?
Dacor?
Independent?
Wolf?
Viking?
Vent-A-Hood?

Are you honest enough to let your customer�s know that in fact you are being paid to push certain brands? Well? We all wait for your response�

The VentaHood is very easy to clean. A couple of latches then the blower box is easily removed. No allen wrenches needed. You get no grease in the ducts, which means no chance of grease fires up in the ducts. I don't mention VentaHood because of spiffs, as you can, at least I can make more on a Wolf hood if I chose to sell it, but for overall performance, they do out perform everyone else. And don't recommend remote blowers to anyone, unless you're going to get up on the roof to take it down when you begin to have problems with it, because no techs are going up on a roof to service it. They'll tell you to take it down if you want it serviced.

I sell all brands of vent hoods, but over the years, VentaHood has been quieter, and is very simple to clean. If your floor display VentaHood still needs an allen wrench, then your floor displays are old. Time to update them.

We all get paid on all hoods, but VentaHood doesn't pay the best, but they do have the best product out there. I'm not saying that the Wolf and Best hoods are crap, just gave my opinion. Been selling these for years, so I know what I'm talking about.

Hey EZWider, You never did answer the question. Do you have a Vent-A-Hood in your own home? If you do have one have you ever cleaned it?

Now I hate to confuse the issue with the facts but straight from the Vent-A-Hood's web site is how you clean the "magic lung". And yes, you do need need an allen wrench.

"Regular cleaning of the blower housing should prevent grease accumulation on the blower wheel. If grease build up should occur, the blower wheel may easily be cleaned in place using a soft bristle toothbrush and a common degreaser such as Formula 409�. Take care not to move or lose the metal balancing clips that may be affixed to the wheel (C).

In instances where the blower wheel may need to be removed, follow the instructions below.

Removing the blower wheel requires a 1/8" hex wrench. A T-handle hex wrench (A) is available from Vent-A-Hood� to accomplish this (Part # AW101). There is a small set screw on the side of the hub of the wheel (B) that tightens up against a "flat" spot on the motor shaft. The set screw must be rotated � turn counterclockwise to remove the blower wheel. Insert wrench through the blades of the blower wheel and into the set screw. If the wheel is difficult to remove, the area where the motor shaft makes contact with the blower wheel hub may need to be sprayed with common penetrating oil such as WD-40�.
After allowing the penetrating oil to soak for a few minutes, push the blower wheel forward slightly, then gently pull the blower wheel off the motor shaft. Use caution to avoid bending or distorting the blower wheel and take care not to move or lose the metal balancing clips that may be affixed to the wheel (C).
A soft bristle toothbrush with warm soapy water may be used to clean the blades, or soak the blower wheel in warm soapy water. When reinstalling the wheel onto the motor shaft, make sure the set screw makes direct contact with the "flat spot" on the motor shaft. Slide the blower wheel onto the motor shaft as far as it will go, making sure the back of the blower wheel does not touch the motor mount screws protruding from the motor.
If the blower wheel is too far back, it will rub the motor mount screws, and if it is too far forward, it will rub the inside of the blower housing. Adjust the blower wheel slightly to find the correct front to rear location. Tighten the set screw (clockwise) to lock the blower wheel in the correct position.
NOTE: For hoods that have more than one blower wheel, make sure that white blower wheels are matched up with white motor rings, and black blower wheels are matched up with black motor rings. The hood will not perform properly if blower wheels and motors are mismatched."

Sounds really consumer friendly doesn't it!? Please don't take my word about this as gospel read the web site link below. Then tell me how convenient this sounds to your customers. I feel very sorry for each and every one of them.

Here is a link that might be useful: How to Clean your

I have lived with a hood with mesh filters. Never again. I stand by what I said above. Mesh filters clog VERY quickly with grease, and unless you clean them a lot, they are rendered useless. Just go to a store, and look at a hood on display with mesh filters. Then look at one with baffle filters. You can easily see what I am talking about. The mesh fill with grease, and become an exhaust blocker. So, if you are looking at a hood with a combo of, say, 50% mesh filters and 50% baffle filters, that means half of your filters will be rendered useless with just a few greasy hamburgers or steaks, or a few frying pans.

My link above shows a comparison among Broan, Ventahood and Independent. Page 4 specifically compares metal liners by each company. I realize this comparison is made by Independent, but since the points they use are factual rather than subjective, i.e. the grade of stainless steel, and double-wall vs. single-wall, I think it would be helpful to the OP.