Anywhere you would not want to lose power if some other electrical device on the circuit tripped the breaker. Refrigerators are already required to be on a dedicated circuit. Other possibilities are sensitive electrical equipment like computers if they are not protected by a UPS system.

central unit
heater unit
water heater
dryer
generator
anything that has..a dedicated purpose.
I'm sure electrical forum knows better than I..
so let us know what they say!

moving...didn't you just finish your home??

best of luck.

As you mentioned, major appliances and equipment commonly found in homes are already required to be on dedicated circuits by the NEC. Think about other less common electrical devices that could cause a problem if they lost power while you were not at home or if the equipment would be damaged during even a momentary loss of power. Also equipment that draws more than 10 amps, like window or portable air conditioner/heaters, large tools, or professional level exercise equipment. I would say a darkroom but no one remembers those things. Some kinds of sound amplification systems and central telephone systems should have a dedicated circuit to reduce interference but these are usually reserved for recording studios and office buildings. Perhaps a sump pump and certainly a sewage ejector..

The National Electric Code already requires dedicated circuits in many locations and these cannot be deviated from.

This is standard for your home.

These dedicated circuits include:

-at least 1 dedicated laundry circuit
-at least two 20 amp circuits dedicated to the kitchen and dining area
-bathroom branch circuits (with some exception)
-bedrooms circuits (Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupter protected)
-heating circuits
-circuits for permanently connected AC

Others dedicated circuits may be optionally provided for your convenience.

The list above may not be all inclusive.

It was mentioned previously but if you have or intend to have a treamill or other large excerise equipment, make sure you have at least a 20A dedicated circuit where you think it would go.

Have your panel set-up with an interlock and a 30A cable fed from the panel to plug into a portable generator. Only costs about $200 to get added to new panel. Invaluable when power goes out.

Freezer. If you have one, make sure your basement (or wherever) has extra outlets.

Unfortunately, the terms used by your builder are not the same ones used by the NEC so it is difficult to accurately discuss what is already required by law so be careful.

You are using "dedicated circuit" to describe what the NEC calls an "individual branch circuit" ("a circuit that serves only one utilization equipment"). However, the NEC uses the term "dedicated circuit" to indicate a single or multi-outlet branch circuit that serves outlets in a specific location and/or for a specific purpose like a bathroom, a bedroom, a laundry area, kitchen/dining/breakfast areas and for refrigeration equipment.

So, for example, make sure your refrigerator and freezer are on an "individual branch circuit" instead of one of the small appliance "dedicated" circuits.

Don't worry about large permanently installed electrical equipment. Think about things you will bring into the house and locate somewhere other than the kitchen/dining/laundry areas and that will require a lot of power or will cause harm if power were interrupted because of some other device on the same circuit.

Sump pump, if you are in an area where you expect your sump pump to run often. Pump and alarm for your septic tank and then test your alarm often to make sure that the alarm is working in case the pump shorts out.

A sump pump is a special situation. It's great to have it on an individual circuit but then it is difficult to know if the breaker has tripped unless you inspect the main panel so it is often a good idea to have a signal/pilot light at the top of the basement stairs. It's not a bad idea to have all of the basement light switches in that location with pilot/indicator lights on them. This is also true for any remote electrical circuits (crawl space, attic garage, etc.) so you don't have to travel far to turn them on/off or to see if they are on/off. Don't put the sump on a switch at this location because it might get turned off accidentally.

Of course, many homes now have various levels of sophisticated control systems that make such precautions unnecessary.

I had 2 20A circuits added for my garage workshop, and another 20A circuit for my home theater. Those are in addition to the standard 15A circuits already covering those locations.

If you tend to use a lot of small kitchen appliances simultaneously, e.g. toaster over, microwave, stand mixer, etc, you might want to ensure that they won't all be plugged into outlets on the same circuit.

It's a good idea for a microwave to be on its own branch circuit.

Some people feel that a security system should have its own branch circuit, even though their power requirements are generally miniscule, and they always have battery backup and power supervision (it will tell you the power has failed).

$130 per circuit seems high for that kind of work during construction.

Thank you all so much for your advice and suggestions!

(Yes 'energy rater' we just finished building our custom home earlier this year, and now will be moving to Texas next year, such is life)!

The builder's salesperson has said she will try to get us a copy of the electrical plan.