Self-leveling primer for kitchen cabinets?

17 years ago

I'm considering painting my kitchen cabinets and have done a test cabinet door using two coats of sherwin williams trim paint. It is self leveling and I got great results with two coats - no brush strokes, roller marks, clumping, etc.

For actual painting of the cabinets, I was thinking about using a primer so that I only need one coat of paint and thereby reduce the cost due to not needing such expensive paint in two coats. Are there any self-leveling primers that will not show brush/roller marks??

Featured Answer

teppy

17 years ago

downsy,
i'm about to start painting my cabs. they will be white and glazed. I have always had the impervo oil based paint, but it does tend to yellow after time. I am going out on a limb this time and will be using the impervo waterborne this time. do you have any experience or thoughts on this paint? I have already purchased my gallon, and it is expensive, but I would rather any experienced advice now before i paint that have regrets later.

And, what kind of poly did you use over the glazing when it was done? I know that some polys will yellow over time too.

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Comments (6)

PRO
Window Accents by Vanessa Downs
17 years ago
I recently painted my cabinets and used 1 coat of primer and 3 coats of paint. My primer was Zinnser Oil based and then I used BM satin impervo paint (Oil). My finish is really hard. (I also glazed them and then put on 2 coats of poly to even out the finish after the glaze was rubbed off.)

I don't know how well your paint would wear if you only have 1 coat. I would think at least 2 coats at minimum.

My kitchen is similar in size to the photos I saw of your kitchen. I only used 1 gallon of paint and 1/2 gallon of primer. (Although I didn't have to paint my island - it was already painted.) But I have paint left over.

I rolled on light coats and brushed in the raised areas. The roller was fast and easy and has a nice finish.
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robynpa
17 years ago
I am painting my cabinets right now. I am using Zinsser 1-2-3 primer because it was what the guys on the painting forum told me to use. I do at least 2 coats of SW Pro Classic on the front of the doors - sometimes 3, and 2 coats on the back of the doors and face frames. I don't think 1 coat is enough.
PRO
Window Accents by Vanessa Downs
17 years ago
Teppy - I am a novice at painting cabinets. I took the advice of the sales rep at the BM store when I painted my cabinets. They said the latex would be fine to use, but they felt that the oil paint was a stronger product and would last longer. I held off buying the paint and then decided to go with the oil. They never said anything to me about it yellowing over time. (Oh great! - I got rid of my yellowed/orangy oak!!)

I wasn't going to use a poly coat because the rep said it wasn't necessary as the oil paint is very strong and will hold up. However, because I was glazing and rubbing off glaze - I had uneven looking spots on my finish and that's why I used poly. I was told that oil poly would yellow and I found a water based poly (polycrilic by minwax) that could be used over oil based paints. I used the sateen sheen because I didn't want a glossy look.
Naomi Miller
4 years ago
I see no one actually answered the question... does anyone know of a self leveling primer? I am interested in this also...
User
4 years ago
There’s no avoiding sanding by using anything called ”self leveling”. You still have to sand down, even after a high build primer. Especislly after a high build primer. That is the route to a smooth even surface ready for the first topcoat. Which also gets sanded before the second top coat.