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Kitchen layout/design help please..pictures attached

16 years ago

I had posted earlier about our dilemma regarding redesigning our kitchen. I am back again and would really appreciate your help with our kitchen remodeling and design.

First off, we live in a four bdr house in a community in northeast, where all the houses are quite similar in design ("cookie cutter houses"). We don't want to spend a lot on the kitchen remodel since we don't think that the money can be recouped when we sell (we bought almost at market peak). We may be staying in this house for 5-7 years more. We are family of three with a toddler and use the kitchen fairly regularly.

The current layout of the kitchen is below:

Pictures of our current kitchen are below.

The opposite side looks like this:

The wall separating the kitchen from the family room is pictured here:

View of breakfast area from kitchen

We want an open floor plan and little more storage space in the kitchen. Kitchen is on the first floor, bdrs on the second and we also have a basement.

To create an open kitchen, we need to take down the main wall which separates the family room from the kitchen. Another small wall (adjacent to the fridge), which separates the kitchen from the breakfast area also needs to come down. The main wall is load-bearing. After discussion with 2 general contractors, it appears that we will be able to take it down.

Our total budget, including new cabinets and countertops is $20,000-25,000.

My questions are as follows:

1) Structural: We are new to all of this and learning by reading this forum! Taking down the walls separating the kitchen from family room and breakfast area seems very appealing. One GC that we talked to gave us an estimate of $4000 to take down the wall and build a header for support. We are going to consult a structural engineer this week. Anyone have suggestions as to what questions to ask and what to watch out for? Is this work doable within our budget?? Please...I need your help! The idea is to place a beam over the new opening. The beam will accept the load from above and concentrate it onto posts at either end of the beam. The header or beam will not be flush to the ceiling - which we think should be fine. The GC or electrician will also have to move couple of electrical outlets.

2) Design: The kitchen and breakfast area floor is vinyl. The family room has carpet and the portion of hallway coming into the kitchen is hardwood.

A picture of the three kinds of flooring looking into the kitchen entry door is below. After taking down the walls, if we don't change any of the flooring, will it look awful? And if we do change flooring(s), what would you suggest, without breaking the bank? Should we just change the family room to hardwood, so that there is just one transition of flooring?

3) We got Lowes and another local KD to provide a few proposals for new layout for the space.

One proposal is below:

The refrigerator will be relocated to the front right hand side after the wall comes down (W362424 in layout).

We will not go with the above corner sink layout because we want the sink near/below the window like we have now. The Lowes layout suggested a single sink below the window instead of current 1.5 sink. I am leaning toward a double or 1.5 sink in the new layout from a point of view of universal appeal (or resale value), so have to work with Lowes KD to accomodate that. Any suggestions about the layout?

Lowes is offering Shenandoah cabinets with installation for $10K, if we purchase by mid-Jan (discount of $2000). Our fridge, DW and microwave are white in color and we are keeping them. The range is black. We are thinking of picking coffee glaze cabinets and darker granite countertop (Artic green or Sapphire blue or similar). That may be another $4000-$5000.

I don't have many inspiration pictures which can help with cabinet and granite color ideas, especially with white appliances. There were a few (posted by biochem101), in reply to my previous posting but they have been removed.

4) Finally, any strong concerns to move with Shenandoh? We made sure the construction is all ply wood and also have dove-tail hardwood drawers.

Comments (13)

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Honestly? I like the Lowes KD's design better. It gives you more prep space and separates the Cooking Zone from the Prep & Cleanup Zones better without losing the availability of water in the Prep Zone.

    I also think it would be great to prep in front of that window! [Remember: 70% of the time spent working in a kitchen is spent prepping...more than 3x as much time as cleaning up (20%); the other 10% is spent cooking.]

    Is a sink centered under a window that important to you? If it is, then OK. But, I wanted to show you the differences b/w yours & the Lowes KD's design...

    Layout #1 (basically, the Lowes KD's design...with a couple of tweaks):

    Layout #2 (sink centered under window):


    Notice how there are more "small" cabinets that are not as useful (and more expensive) as the larger ones in the first layout? There also isn't a good place for the trash pullout in this design. It pretty much has to be next to the DW b/c (1) it gives you enough space b/w the sink & DW to stand and (2) to avoid the problem of creating even more small cabinets, which would happen if you put on the range side. But, in this location it is really inconvenient for prepping & cooking...where you use the trash for longer lengths of time and more time overall. You'll have to not only walk across an aisle almost 6 feet wide, but you'll have to cross the Cleanup Zone to do it. [I have the 6' aisle to cross to get to the trash from my Prep Zone and it's the biggest regret/mistake I made in my kitchen.]

    OTOH, there is more room to stand in front of a standard 36" sink base than a 42" corner sink base (the size in Layout #1)...the 42" corner sink base has approx 26" frontage, the 36" standard sink has, well, 36". (If you went with a 45" corner sink base, you would have approx 30" of frontage...but it would be another 3" off each wall.)

    However, there's also the Zone issue...

    Layout #1 with Zones:

    Layout #2 with Zones:

    Notice the greater overlap of Prep & Cleanup Zones? The more overlapping you have in general (but especially when Cleanup Zones & Prep Zones overlap), the less functional a kitchen is as a multi-worker kitchen (multiple cooks, or one cook + one cleanup person).

    Some other ideas:

    Layout #1a (alternate MW location):

    The range is moved "up" another 6" for a little more protection of the Cooking Zone (& range) from traffic.

    Layout #3 with smaller corner susans. However, several people here have said the 33" susans aren't as easy to access as the 36", so I would hesitate to recommend them w/o a great impact on design/function.

    ...


    In the end, this is your kitchen and you should design it the way it will function best for you and your family. I just wanted to point out the pros & cons to both layouts.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Not going to talk about a specific plan, but about orientation and what your goals are. Some very tuff love follows.

    In a very real sense, your new plan isn't any more open FROM the kitchen perspective. The person cooking or cleaning is still completely turned away from family life. My opinion is you're spending $4k more than simply replacing the kitchen cabinets and gaining nothing for the chef or the cleaning crew. Well, maybe the noise of the ref in the family room.

    When you say you what to open the whole thing up - what does that mean to you?

    Why not do it cheaper by reversing the counter and the ref and removing the wall behind the peninsula?

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Buehl, Thanks so much for the very informative layout suggestions. Now I see that the sink centered under the window would create zone issues. Though from a prep point of view, we tend to prep right next to the range, since everything goes in pots on the stove. So prepping won't necessarily happen under the window if we go to a corner sink.

    Bmorepanic, the plan is to remove the main wall behind the fridge, so there will be no wall separating the kitchen and family room. We plan to have a small island there as shown. That makes it easier for anyone working in the kitchen to be connected to the family room (for us watching our toddler while working in the kitchen). The small wall separating the kitchen and breakfast area will also be taken down.

    However, we have very little idea about what it takes to remove a load bearing wall and we are definitely not DIYers in that area. I am not fully confident about the capabilities and know-how of GCs that we consulted with regarding the job. Having read this forum, we have decided to look for and consult with a structural engineer. I don't know what to expect and to watch for..so looking for input. Also, what should we expect to spend for removing a wall and moving electrical outlets and a small plumbing line that goes to the fridge? We don't know if the estimate given by GC ($4000) is too much or too little! Thanks.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    But it won't work out that way. The person at the sink or the range will still be excluded. When working at the range, for instance, you'll have no view of the family room at all - you'll be looking at the ref.

    Prep will take place between the sink and the range, so you'd still be turned away with no views.

    Sometimes being included needs more than taking a wall down. You'd need to rotate the entire kitchen counterclockwise about 270 degrees plus find a new home for the ref.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    If you want more "inclusion", then plan the Prep Zone so it will face the open area...(Remember those statistics from my previous post...70% of your time is spent prepping)

    One note....just b/c you do something one way now doesn't mean that's how it will be when you remodel. Sometimes we do things a particular way b/c it's the only way it works now. When you remodel, you open yourself up to new ways of doing things...if you make it possible to do things differently.

    We sometimes have to come out of our "comfort zone" of familiarity and do something "different"...which means change, and everyone is resistant to change to some degree (some more than others).

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    What about something like this? It puts the Prep Zone on the peninsula and the range nearby.
    The range is protected and still against a wall for (1) less expensive, easier, and more effective venting and (2) far enough away from visitors that they won't get splattered by grease or have steam/smoke/odors in their face.
    You also have 42"+ of workspace b/w the prep sink & range for prepping...a good amount of space. You also have some space on the other side of the prep sink for setting things down and reducing the chances of pushing things off onto the floor.
    The prep sink will also provide a place for hand washing without having to go deep into the kitchen.

    It does close off the kitchen more, but it also provides more separation of zones.

    The only real drawback I see is that you will prepping in the only entrance to the kitchen...but perhaps a 49" aisle will be enough...I don't know if it will be for you, only you can answer that. It does, however, give you your "inclusion" with others for 80% of your work...prepping + cooking.

    You might consider either glass doored upper cabinets or no cabinets b/w the refrigerator & sink to reduce the "cave" issue. With glass doored cabinets (or none) plus the large window plus good lighting, I don't think the corner near the refrigerator will be much of a "dark cave".

    Layout #4:

    Layout #4 w/Zones:

    Notice how well separated the zones are and no zone-crossing. This layout would allow up to 4 people to work comfortably in the kitchen...Cleanup in front of the main sink, Prepping at peninsula, Cooking at the corner range, and Prepping or MW cooking b/w the range & main sink.

    BTW...that MW could be mounted on a shelf below upper cabinets on that run if you prefer that setup.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Bmorepanic, Thanks for the clarification. I see what you are saying about moving the kitchen counterclockwise 270 degree.
    I thought about that. For one, I don't think moving the cooking zone (range) to where the refrigerator is currently situated will work. It will be too close to the family room and we have a loveseat that will sit very close to it. I feel that a small island is very well suited in that space as per layout suggestions by Lowes KD and Buehl.

    That being said, the island can be used as a Prep zone per Buehl's suggestion. However, isn't the island a little small to hold the sink and counter space? Also, having the sink there doesn't seem appealing on first thought. Maybe the island can still work as a prep area (but without a sink). Buehl, any thoughts?

    We think that taking the walls down will give us access to the conversation in the family room as well as allow us to watch our toddler easier than with the wall. Also, there is a TV in the FR (on the wall opposite to the wall behind fridge) that we cannot watch from the kitchen currently.

    I would also appreciate comments input regarding taking down loadbearing wall/ structural aspects of our project. Thanks.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    Do you have a basement? If so, moving/adding plumbing is pretty easy. If you're on a slab...well, it may or may not be as easy.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    In both the KD's layout and yours, prepping will not take place on the island. It's too far away from the range and there's no water source anywhere nearby.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    BTW...I thought I'd add that if you want/need a Baking Center, the span of counter b/w the DW & range will work well for that. You would also have access to the oven in your range from the peninsula...so you could roll out dough, etc. on one side of the range, while baked goods are cooling on the other side...or someone could be making dinner on the peninsula while someone else is baking on the wall run.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    We do have a basement. The kitchen is on the first floor and bdrs are on the second.

    We spent some time today looking for referral for a structural engineer, but didn't get anywhere. Now we are thinking of getting one from service magic Or yellow pages. Problem is that there is no way of knowing if the person we pick is good and they charge to come out for evaluation. Any suggestions on where to find a structural engineer in northeast/NJ area?

    Buehl, You have so many ideas..It is amazing! We would ideally not want to close off the kitchen with the peninsula (your layout 4). It is preferable to to have another entrance to the kitchen (layouts 1,2,3) since we have a formal dining room down the hallway to the right. So with the island, we can access the kitchen closer to the formal dining room (though we don't use it often).

    This thread is taking a while to load due to pictures. Perhaps I need to start another one, if it becomes an issue.

  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    How about something like this. It wraps the counter around to the breakfast area with the frig there as well (gray square by breakfast area window). The rest of the counter is a breakfast bar and a banquet is added.

    An island is in place of the wall and if you find that is is load bearing, you can have columns integrated into the island (black circles.) The corners of the island and the adjacent countertops are clipped at 45 degrees if needed. Sink and cooktop stay as is.


  • 16 years ago
    last modified: 11 years ago

    I really don't think you need a structural engineer to look at this project. Taking down that little wall in a new house is not a big deal, even if it's load bearing. I personally think $4000 is way too much money for that particular project, too. It is something my husband and I would do ourselves and it would not cost more than $200. One way to make it cheaper would be to keep posts on each side of the island so that the span of the new support beam would be reduced.

    I do understand your desire to open this space up--it's what I would want as well. I think buehl's plan #4 looks fantastic, though--a very workable kitchen. I don't really see a problem with closing off that one opening. The other doorway is only a few feet away.