Ugh, I can hardly stand the acrylic one in my home.
I thought it was cast iron, similar to the one I had purchased for my other place, I had to purchase thru the internet and it looked the same, yet it was not.
It scratches something fierce, stains galore, greyish marks from pots and pans every single day and actually got a small chip off of the very front within weeks of installation.
I'd run from this type if sink in the kitchen.
But that's just my humble experience :)

You could have a potential issue, but it won't be a problem if the sink is installed correctly. A lead of caulk (preferably silicone), thick enough to spread out over the entire contact area, should be run under the sink lip prior to setting in place. Press the sink into place and wipe up any excess caulk that squishes out. Now you have a watertight seal that prevents the two metals from contacting each other directly in a wet environment, and prevents water from getting under your sink.

Thanks for the replies. I decided against stainless, but it's good to know a bead of silicone should be sufficient. Even if the metals do react, it shouldn't occur for at least 25-30 years(according to a couple of HS chem teachers). I have American Std Poly-cast on order. I'll post a pic when it's done. Sean

I hope its not an A.S. Americast sink that you have on order because the one we put in a rental house did not hold up. The finish was very worn after only 1 year, and the "porcelain" chipped when my DH installed the faucet.

Having just finished putting on a new roof and using copper flashing, I know the roofers used copper nails for the flashing. The stucco guys covered all their metal (that touched the copper) with strips of adhesive-backed vinyl and attached them with stainless steel nails. So, knowing that, I would say that stainless steel is compatible wtih copper.

Stainless and copper usually get along pretty well.
Low chrome stainless is actually a little better than high chrome stainless for copper reactions.