HI - JUST LOVED ALL THE PICS FROM ALICE AND EVERYONE - WANTING TO COVER MY LAMINATE SURFACES WITH COPPER SHEETING - DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY INFOR ON PLACES THAT MIGHT HELP IN UK AS I HAVE NOT BEEN ABLE TO FIND ANYONE HERE THAT REALLY KNOWS ANYTHING ABOUT USING COPPER AS WORK TOPS?
THANKYOU

I was just curious how people are liking their counter tops now. My wife would love to do this, but I thought it would be expensive; price of copper and all...how are they holding up. Does the heat from the stove or oven influences the patina?

Circuspeanut, I was wondering how the joint at the "L" looks now? We have an "L" and would have to seam it in much the same way.

Lastly, how do you patina the copper if you want to patina it yourself. The wife and I saw a cool copper counter at a winery in AZ. They used acid and a torch then lacquered it to protect the patina.

"We are considering DIY Stainless Counters using similar copper methods used in the original post.
Does anyone know if this can be done with stainless sheets?"
Stainless- which comprise a host of alloys- is invariably of much higher yield than copper, which means harder to work. It also work hardens faster, any bends made need to be done once- re-doing at a home shop level would be difficult at best.
It would be better to have any L-shapes accomplished by shearing/sawing/notching VS. joining themally (welding or silver soldering)as oxidation will require polishing and may involve flattening. Autogenous TIG welding is the commercial standard for the work.
Seams made with sheared edges (read:"factory")...if joined with epoxies/adhesives as in the referenced thread, will exhibit a thick glue line due to slight deformation at the edge. Care could be taken to have the burr side up but would require abrasive dressing which could compromise surface finish. A brushed surface would be easiest to blend into, as well as maintain.

HI,
After following all of your wonderfull work for sometime now, I am ready to begin putting copper backsplashes in my newly renovated kitchen. However, I have a few questions/points for clarification before I begin :)

In regard to putting in the backspashes, is it best to put up the 1/4 inch plywood first - that is attach it to the wall with counter sinked screw and then fill in the screw holes and then, finally, put the copper on with the TC_20?
OR
Attach the copper to the plywood and then in some manner attach the coppered plywood to the wall???

As trim I plan on using very thin (1/4 inch)by 1 1/2 inch wide stainless steel bars. My question here is, how best to attach the stainless steel bars to the copper??

Aside from some paint this is the last phase of the project and I very ready to be done!

Hi a_collie_garden,

I haven't done this yet, so I'm no expert but it sounds like the first option you listed is the best. If you did attached the copper first, then you make have a hard time attaching it to the wall.

can anyone list the name of the supplier who has the wide copper sheets (4 feet by 10 feet). I am unable to locate them. Thank you!

Hi historichouse,
I got my 4x10 sheet from ThyssenKrupp. Their website is www.copperandbrass.com. They were a bit of a pain to work with, but the copper shipped directly to my house in tact. It shipped Yellow Freight, but was packaged in a 400 pound crate (the crate was so big because it was laying flat). I was by myself, luckily the Yellow Freight driver was incredibly helpful.
Hope this helps!!!!
BTW, we still LOVE our copper counters.

Well, it's been almost 2 years since I first installed my DIY counters (July 2008). I had promised some photos of it after some time had passed, so here you go. We also still ADORE our counters; they just keep getting better with age.

As you can tell from the following shots, it is extremely difficult to catch the depth and richness of the copper in a photograph; it looks a different color in each picture (!). But they will give you the general idea.

{{gwi:1919838}}

Copper is a living finish; this means that it changes daily depending on whatever you set on it. This is not a countertop for folks who like polished granite, fussy glossy baroque cabinet trim, lots of fringe and doilies and daily dusting. :-)

{{gwi:1800739}}

Steady exposure to water will patinate some areas more quickly than others. Around the sink rim and faucets:
{{gwi:1919835}}

{{gwi:1800738}}

The light salmon spots here, for instance, are where a lemon was dripped on the way in or out of the fridge and not wiped up, removing the patina. It darkened again in about a month.
{{gwi:1996797}}

Someone on the kitchen forum wanted hardcore copper counter usage pictures. Here you go:

The Crime:
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The Cleanup:
{{gwi:1996798}}

The place where we had to seam two sheets along the "L" of the peninsula has held up admirably, in fact it gets less obvious as time goes on; certainly no worse than many solid surface seams I have seen:
{{gwi:1996799}}

It does ding, as you can see from the long side of the peninsula where a castiron pan was dropped. But we honestly find this just adds to the charm:
{{gwi:1996800}}

What would we do differently?
If I could have afforded it, it would have been nice to have had the metalworker bend all the counter corners as he did for the farmhouse sink. It's a sleeker (and possibly safer) option than the sharp square corners. We don't have kids so we're not too worried, but it might be a consideration for families.
{{gwi:1996801}}

If I were doing it again, I'd be sure to keep the sheets flat while stored. We rolled them for about a month while we figured out how to do the project -- we've had some slight bowing where the sheets want to return to that original rolled shape. It might also have been prevented with a vacuum press or other means of "ironing" the sheets before or after gluing.
We got our 4' x 10' copper sheet (Revere copper) from a local building supply distributor -- I'd look into that option before ordering bigger sheets online; most everywhere has a lumberyard or materials supply that has the sheets in stock for roofing contractors.
The barstock we did have to special order - Storm Copper shipped them for a minimal fee but it was a bit of a hassle to go collect such a big crated package from the freight depot.

On the whole, though, we are in love with this yummy metal and think it's added immeasurable value (aesthetic and otherwise) to our kitchen. It's certainly been a lot of bang for the buck.
Looking forward to seeing pictures of all of your copper tops --

Yikes, all my photos vanished. Once again!

Steady exposure to water will patinate some areas more quickly than others. Around the sink rim and faucets:

The light salmon spots here, for instance, are where a lemon was dripped on the way in or out of the fridge and not wiped up, removing the patina. It darkened again in about a month:

The surface is endlessly changing according to use. A dinner guest last weekend actually asked whether it was marble (!):

Someone on the kitchen forum wanted hardcore copper counter usage pictures. Here you go:
The Crime:

The Cleanup:

Same spot, a few months later:

The place where we had to seam two sheets along the "L" of the peninsula has held up admirably, in fact it gets less obvious as time goes on; certainly no worse than many solid surface seams I have seen:
at install:

a year later:

It does ding, as you can see from the long side of the peninsula where a castiron pan was dropped. But we honestly find this just adds to the charm.
right after ding:

a year later:

What would we do differently?

If I could have afforded it, it would have been nice to have had the metalworker bend all the counter corners as he did for the farmhouse sink. It's a sleeker (and possibly safer) option than the sharp square corners. We don't have kids so we're not too worried, but it might be a consideration for families.

If I were doing it again, I'd be sure to keep the sheets flat while stored. We rolled them for about a month while we figured out how to do the project -- we've had some slight bowing where the sheets want to return to that original rolled shape. It might also have been prevented with a vacuum press or other means of "ironing" the sheets before or after gluing.
We got our 4' x 10' copper sheet (Revere copper) from a local building supply distributor -- I'd look into that option before ordering bigger sheets online; most everywhere has a lumberyard or materials supply that has the sheets in stock for roofing contractors.

The first DIY copper countertop thread was a big part of the inspiration to use copper on the bar in our basement remodel. We still have a few things left to do (Tiling the bar front for one!) but the metalwork is complete.

Here some pics!

...and a closeup of the finish....

Wow! What an awesome forum! Totally inspired our cool new basement bar. Thanks to all who posted instructions and pictures.

mongo -- nice finish on the copper. is that sanded? looks great!

hoping this link to my pics will work....

Here is a link that might be useful: Copper Bar 90% done!

Coppercat - It appears that great minds do think alike! I believe we are using the same tile you used on your project.

The finish is sanded. I used 3" medium scotch brite discs to apply the pattern to the bar top and foot rail. I used 2" discs for the corbels.

Mongo, I got that tile @ home depot for $5/sqr after originally finding it online for $15/squ. I would advise laying the tiles out on the floor in the shape ur going to use them and make sure it looks ok. I discovered after they were up that about 10 squares out of the 60 I used were significantly lighter than the rest and make a visible pattern on the wall even though they all looked exactly the same as I pulled them out of the box. It was also a real pain to grout. I wouldn't change it tho, that tile looks perfect with the copper! Post more pics when it's done!

Finally got the bar done! Here are some pics of the finished product

[IMG]http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d154/FFlyte/Bar%20Top/IMG_0288.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d154/FFlyte/Bar%20Top/IMG_0289.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d154/FFlyte/Bar%20Top/IMG_0289.jpg[/IMG]

Lots of info on this and the original thread - thanks guys! I'm planning on making a non-coated (raw) countertop. I'll probably accelerate the patina initially using a "Florentine Brown" recipe. My aim is to go for the rustic look, so will embrace dings, splotches, etc. Some Qs:

I will have top counter seams. What are some ways of joining the sheets? One way would be to lay a copper strip (maybe thinner gauge) underneath the seam, butt the two sheets together and glue it all. Might not even need the underlay strip. You could also solder it, but then the solder is a different color. Another idea is to use that copper colored epoxy or glue, but then that'll be different than the patina (but maybe that won't matter). Thoughts?

Edging. My initial inclination is to fold the edges over and under the 1.5" base and nail it underneath. Any suggestions on how to do an outside and inside corner?

While I like the idea of the narrow strip underneath for joining, but you might run into an issue - the pieces won't stick very well to each other and you may get lifting at the join. You may want to go to a local sheet-metal place and talk to them about it. Many of them do custom counters and may be able to help with joins.

No way you could solder it - you just won't be able to get it hot enough once it is on a piece of plywood and it wouldn't be rigid enough to attempt soldering without backing.

The copper epoxy is the color of aged copper. You would see a line, but it wouldn't be a glaring color difference. It may not work well in a really narrow, shallow joint however. It would be difficult to force it into the joint and the layer may not be thick enough to be strong - might crumble out. It's worth a try though. I would do a small mock-up and see if it is workable.

You really won't need anything to accelerate the patina - you will be amazed at how quickly it occurs on its own.

I am so impressed with the beauty and artistry of these DIY projects - YOU PEOPLE AND YOUR BEAUTIFUL COUNTERS ARE AN INSPIRATION TO ALL!!!

So of course, I am wondering whether:
1.) you ever cut on your counters (my guess is no - I don't cut on laminate without a cutting board either),
2.) you can put hot pans on it (it's a pretty good conductor of heat, right?), and
3.) whether any of you grounded your counters, and if so, how?
4.) you have any recommendations on sheet thickness and what to do about sharp edges.
5.) you have any concerns about copper toxicity (I know, it's antibacterial, but there are cases of copper toxicity from unlined copper cookware...)?
6.) you are beeswax users?
7.) you practiced first, or just jumped right in?

Thanks for the inspiration. I would love to do this. I might experiment with the powder room vanity before I try the kitchen counter...

Started counters today...

This post was edited by pruitt6 on Tue, Mar 4, 14 at 1:29

Started counters today...

This post was edited by pruitt6 on Tue, Mar 4, 14 at 1:28

This is the small counter on the side of the stove. Bought

1 1/4" thick wood base. Then added a 1" 1/2" moulding which fits over cabinet base. Am trying for a gift wrap corner which will be cemented on edges of moulding. So far so good. Any suggestion will be appreciated. Thanks for all information. It was the inspiration for doing this project. The pictures and completed projects are amazing. P.S. Am using 16 mil copper sheeting.

First side done. Scratched the finish but not concerned. Am going for patina finish.

First side done. Scratched the finish but not concerned. Am going for patina finish.

First side done. Scratched the finish but not concerned. Am going for patina finish.

This post was edited by pruitt6 on Tue, Mar 4, 14 at 1:24

Newly installed Copper counters in kitchen.

Newly installed Copper counters in kitchen.

{{gwi:1996792}}

They're beautiful! Can we see close ups of the corners?

Close up of corner. Allow for the copper to extend beyond the counter on both sides to cover the edge (1.75") or your measurement plus 1/4 " to bend under counter edge. You are going to fold the copper over the edge with a rubber mallet and a 2x4 piece of wood the length of counter edge clamped with a furniture wood clamp on one side. Then cut to corner at 180 degree or straight. Then fold the wing around corner. Then you use the mallet and the wood dam to bend the copper over the edge and use mallet to bend under edge. We used air gun staple to attach edge to under counter. We used copper with protective coating of PVC. Otherwise you need to protect copper with soft cloth to keep from scratching. Hope this helps. You can fill the edge with metal epoxy, like used in metal repair. Do a practice with a piece of cardboard or paper to get a visual before cutting copper or ordering your copper.

Flat copper sheets glued to substrate with 3m glue before bending over edge. Celebrate hard work with popcorn and coke.

Cool! Can you estimate your cost and time commitment?

I finally did the math. The counter materials were $1500. The time was 0ne month to complete the kitchen. The cost of total project including appliances, paint, exception of refrigerator and disposal. Bought appliances, stove,dishwasher, microwave, from foreclosed home owners for $700. . LG brand, they were used for about one year. The cost of lighting and chandeliers, sink,faucets are included. It has LED lighting surrounding the recessed lighting box. total $3600.

Hey there, I'm thinking of a copper countertop kitchen for my new place (over existing laminate). I have a question below, but first - found this Youtube video that I don't think has been referenced here, really enlightening:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A52WeO751Jc

Question is, I love the colorcopper.com enchantment finish - beautiful - but I don't think I can afford it. Can anyone suggest (or provide links to) any other way I can get a really interesting, variegated patina on a (much cheaper) plain copper sheet? I found this - http://basiccopper.com/cocobybewr.html - really nice, but would like something even more funky if possible.

Appreciated!

The copper changes all the time with use. You cannot keep it from changing unless you put a coating on it. I like mine shiny and have found Bar Top metal cleaner the best. It is available at our Low's home improvement. Have found you can polish it where it is used most and dis colored and it will darken to match the recently polished areas within hours not nessary to polish all surfaces to look good. Am enjoying.. You can order patina enhancements on line. It is sprayed on. So, no worry about getting interesting finishes. Just look at products or experiment yourself.

Thanks, pruitt6, sorry, I didn't have automatic response notification on. Yes, I would plan on a lacquer or epoxy coating to lock in any patina enhancement. I will have a look online again. I didn't turn up anything much along the lines of what I'm looking for the first time, was hoping someone here would have a treasure trove of references for me! So if anyone does, please don't be shy. But if I find something exciting, I will post it.

Thanks!

Been looking online again and realized my issue is that I prefer the red/brown/orange patinas for a countertop to the green ones, but these seem to involve heat (whereas green is just vinegar and salt, easy peasy). Any suggestions for non-heat processes for reds, browns, and oranges much appreciated!

Hello all!
Guess what. I just recieved my 3'X20' roll of copper for my kitchen countertop im about to start on. Thanks to your blog, I feel very confident about it, still have a few questions, isnthis threadnstill monitored?

I look in every few months. I should receive an email if you post with any specific questions, although it's been three months since you posted so more than likely you've already installed your copper.

Hey there, so I have not yet moved on my project, but am finally gearing up to do so. I'm now thinking of a raw copper install, and allowing a natural patina to develop.

My main concern, though, is that I have one very large countertop area (3' x 9') that I only really use half of - the rest is covered in stuff pending my quarterly tidy-up (!). How will this affect the patina? I'm thinking I might be condemned to a permanently uneven-looking counter. I don't mind if one side has a few more spots than the other, but I do mind if one side is super shiny and the other is not.

aliceinwonderland - I think you had a fairly large island, right? How has this issue worked out with you?

Thanks a lot!

Awesome thread! Im building an L-shape public bar top which is 5 meters long (196 inches) on the long side and 3 meters (118 inches) on the short side. 450mm deep (17 inches) with about a 2 inches thick overall but with a 4 inch trim under the front lip of the bar. Never worked with copper before but am totally inspired thanks to this board. Im located in the remote Japanese Alps so a little hard to get the local USA products here. Ill probably import the copper in a roll from China and try to get similar contact adhesive and Just for Copper type products locally in Japan.

Mongo59, to get your sanded effect, did you just alternate the angle of the sander at regular intervals?

Pruit6, do you have any more pictures of how you folded the copper around the edges and corners?

Circus Peanut and Jenathegreat, after years of use do you have any issues with the glued edges opening up at all? Has the Just for Copper product lasted over time?

If expoxy is used, will it scratch and dull over time with heavy use?

Thanks everyone for all your insights.

It takes very little time for the copper to darken, a few days at most. One side would only remain shiny if you sealed it. There is no real difference between the most-used and seldom-used end of my island.

AIW, thanks for the reassuring comment. Another question for you - seams. You said you used the copper-colored epoxy, right? How has that worked out for you? Have the seams become more, or less visible over time with the epoxy? How have they stood up to water? Any chance of a photo? Really appreciate it!

Aliceinwonderland: what gauge or weight did you use? And what type of coating/finish? Thanks!

also: does any one know of the long rolls (20'!) captainyoni mentioned?

nottoosticky: still trying to find out the patina you used!

16 gauge. No coating/finish.

Wonderful photos! Great job folks.

Here's our DIY effort. Results achieved by applying first a mix of course salt and baking soda with a tiger torch. After rinsing I then sprayed random areas the next day with vinegar and small amounts of miracle grow fertilizer. Neutralize immediately when you like the look with baking soda dissolved in water, then dry. These results are very random so if you want a specific look don't try it! I recommend reading lots on heat-treated copper patinas before venturing this way. Sealing is ultra important as the surface will scratch very easily also. We are topcoating with Protectacoat by Everbrite. Thanks for the inspiration to try this out! Next up: backsplash, then decorative range hood cover and even the fireplace surround!