I've been interviewing contractors for a full kitchen remodel (we started out partial, but got sucked in). How do I objectively choose between these two?

One of the two just finished my neighbor's kitchen, so I've seen the work. I know first hand that it drug on a bit, but it looks nice and the neighbor recommended him. It's a larger company, specializing in kitchens and baths, with all in-house employees. When I had the owner over to talk about my kitchen, all I got was how wonderful his company is (and how others aren't so good), all the high end stuff they've done for important personages, what deals he'll give me, etc. A real sales job. He basically asked me if I could do a $40K remodel, then sent me a letter reiterating his sales pitch and giving the $40K number (appliances not included). The only thing I said that he listened to was painted white cabinets, so he sent me photos of his own kitchen (gorgeous, of course) and says he'll do that for me. It's lovely, but I actually do have some ideas of my own, being an artist and all.

The other guy is smaller time, says he does 3-4 kitchens per year. I have no references from people I know, but references I called loved him. They all said he was on time, on budget, fixed problems with no quibbling, etc. He uses subcontractors and brought his local cabinet maker out to chat with me. The cabinet guy was great and had interesting ideas about design and gadgets. Since cabinets are his bread and butter, while furniture is his passion, he can presumably make anything I want. Most of the photos I looked at, however, were more modern styling than the traditional/transitional looks I'm considering. They really seem to want the job and go out of their way to convince me.

The more detailed second round of bids are substantially the same. The big shop bid seems more generic and like the first bid from the small guy (I suspect it's actually my neighbor's bid, recycled). It seems very baseline, and I know I'll have to cough up money for extras that he is unaware that I want, or is aware, but didn't include. The little guy's bid is much closer to my current design ideas, because we actually had a conversation, and this second round is a refinement from the first more generic bid.

I know I won't deal that much with the owner of the big shop, as his crew will do the design and construction. I don't have any contact with them to go on. Perhaps that's one thing I should do before a decision.

I find myself wanting to work with the little guy, but feeling a bit nervous about the unknowns. So my question (sorry for the long winded workup) is this: how to choose between known and safe but unclear on what I'll get and how much it'll cost, or lesser safe outcome with better personal communications and firmer cost ideas.

Thanks in advance for any input.