Might not be what ya wanna hear, here...

The store is most likely right.

>>> If the paint on the BOTTOM of the chip is a different color than the new coat of paint, an earlier layer failed, and is not the fault of the new paint.
* Top-line Latex paints like Duration have a slight "shrinking/pulling" propery as they're curing/drying-down.
* Old, AND/OR BADLY PREPPED surfaces are a cause.
* Brittle, old, and therefore weakly-adhered oil-base films can literally get "pulled-off" by new Latexes.
* Moisture "out-migrating" from the house can be another factor helping to "push-off" paint-layers.

Bottom-line:
Warranties state substrates must be clean, dry, dulled, & sound.
If an old surface is at/near this failure threshold, it's NOT considered a sound surface.
Under these conditions, it's "game-over" for any new paint.

Faron

Use Super Paint in quarts to do the touch up.

Michael

I agree with faron79

The paint will only work on properly cleaned and prepped surfaces. The paint warranty becomes null and void when there is a problem with the substrate. Almost every paint complaint I have ever looked at was due to moisture problems. I would just purchase a quart of the product for touchup. I would not purchase a different product for touchup because there could a difference in the sheen of the product. Secondly, if the house has been painted for five years, there could be some fade, test a spot to make sure the paint blends properly with the existing paint.

Just curious, is the paint that is peeling on the southside of the house?

Thanks,
It does make sense that the orginal paint is what is peeling. Is there anything they could have done when they were prepping for this job that would have prevented this?
The south seems to have the least peeling. I know the garage door was not prepped right because I talked to the painter at the time and he gave me some lame excuse and I let him get away with it. The window ledges and rails of the front porch and the molding around the garage door are
the worst.
The Duration doesn't come in quarts. The worst of the peeling is an off white color, so I'm not sure how much difference there would be (from fading.)
Perhaps we need to hire a painter to come in a scrape all the peeling paint, prime and redo. It is a two story house , a pretty big job
I just find it so hard to get a quality paint job. It seems that you have to stay right on top of them or they take short cuts.
I had them come back repeatedly when it was first done to do the window ledges right, (I thought) but they are the worst now.

How are you hiring your painters? I would ask the paint store who they would recommend and then check some of his previous customers.

If the surface were prepped correctly, the paint should not fail. Painters usually will pressure wash to remove paint and then feather sand the rougher edges, caulk, prime, and paint. From what you are saying about the painters, I would definitely look into a more professional painter. My guess is that the window ledges were not properly primed.
I would have used an oil based primer.

I do have a solution that will help you. Zinsser has a primer called Peel Stop. It is available in paint stores. This product will seal and bond any remaining paint and hold the topcoat. I have tried this myself and I know painters that swear by this product. The only drawback is that this product is milky white on application and dries clear. It smells like Elmer's glue, but, this product really works great. I had a wall that had chipping and peeling paint. After I cleaned the wall, removed all the loose pieces of paint, I primed with one coat of Peel Stop and painted over it later. The paint is holding up perfectly. This product can be used in both interior and exterior applications.

I did get the painter from store recommendation.
They did power wash the house. The main body of the house is holding up fine. It is all the off white trim that is peeling. Thanks for the info on Peel stop.
Since it is peeling down to the the wood, I suspect the real culprit is the intial paint job when we built. It was probably not primed. The trim is not peeling where it is protected from the weather (under the porch roof)

I have had better luck with recommendations from my BM store than from this SW store. I recently had interior trim and cupboards painted and interviewed painters from both. The Sw painters were just not as professional and I ended up using a painter from the BM store that was pleasant and did a good job. He doesn't do exterior or I would use him again.

Is it finger jointed trim?

I don't think it is finger jointed. I don't see any of that kind of joint on the window units.
It seems that the peeling is mainly on the actual window units, the mullions and ledges. We have wood Hurd casement windows. Our house is 14 years old.

I've now looked more closely at those window units that are peeling and see that it is finger jointed
Should we use an oil base primer before we repaint these areas?

I don't think it matters much what kind of primer you use. This wood is likely going to make the paint fail every few years because it moves at the joints. Once the joints move, they take in moisture and paint failure is soon to follow. There is another thread about this.

Here is a link that might be useful: This link is optional

Thanks for that thread link.
I remembered reading it , but couldn't remember which thread and it didn't show up when I did a search.
This is very annoying. I think it has been 5 years, however they were beginning to peel last year. The front windows have true divided lights and they are also peeling . It is a two story house. groan!!! So tedious to get up there and do it or find someone that will do just the trim. It seems most painters want the whole job and not just the trim.

I agree that the problem is most likely poor surface prep. I bought Duration to paint the trim on my mom's house 2 years ago. I was able to paint much of the trim myself; cleaning, sanding and priming the surface before applying the final coat of Duration. I'm deathly afraid of heights, so Mom hired her next door neighbor to paint the trim on the eves and peaks. He failed to prep the surface and just slapped on the Duration over the existing paint.

Now, 2 years later, some of the trim paint if flaking and peeling. It is only doing so where this guy painted - the areas I prepped and painted look good as new.

Parsone,
What kind of primer did you use?
We can probably do what is on the first level and then hire someone for the second.

Parsonse, Thanks. I'll ask the people at SW about primer.

Isn't Duration "self-priming" and you aren't supposed to use primer with it? Our painter seems to think he doesn't need primer--just Duration. Is this wrong? We start painting on Friday . . .
Thanks!

Duration does not require a primer. It does require two coats!

Michael

My painter recommended Duration paint for my house 18 years ago. On the south side of the house it began to peel after two years. I new understand that Duration sticks so tenaciously to the laywer underneath that it pulls the previous layer off the side of the house. The previous paint expands and contracts at a different rate than the Duration paint. The expansion and contraction cause the paint to peel. This only happened on the south side of my house that gets all the sun, wind and rain. The east, north and west sides of the house had no problem whatsoever. In fact, after 18 years, those sides still look nearly new. My first attempt to fix the problem was to reprep the south side of the house, pressure washing and scraping were necessary. This did not remove all the old paint, but the siding was clean. I put a different Sherwin Williams paint on the siding. It began to peel within a few years. I now realize the problem was the Duration paint that was painted over. A few years ago I removed all the paint with an agressive grinder off the siding down to bare wood. I then repainted. No problems. My opinion is that Duration, or at least the formulation from 18 years ago, should not be used over old paint. It would be great on a new home.