I staryed using the Hafele's about a year ago, mostly the Loox series. Clienrs have all been happy.
Did one for an interior designer friend on a Poggenpohl frameless kitchen that had no mding. Used the track that gets recesssed (routed) into the bottom, almost flush.
Only had one driver that had a bad switch outlet may otherwise no issues. Use mostly the touch (actually wave at) switches, not much with the dimmers.
Pretty simple unless also doing in cabinet lights.
They offer a service to your seller that suggests parts based on layout.

Jakuvall - My electrician has left it up to me to purchase (he strongly prefers direct-wire). I have been looking at Kitchensource.com for purchasing the Loox components - you think they have someone to walk me through it?

I figure I need:
- spool of Loox 2015 lights
- 15 and 30 watt transformers
- a couple daisy chain cable connectors (for where the cabinets/shelves switch elevations)
- aluminum profile for the upper shelf where the tape light will be exposed

post your layout, I'll look at it. Be good if your can include elevations.

Woo! Thanks. I'm running out the door now, but I will post some elevations this evening.

Thanks so much!

The final layout (sorry things look a little distorted - not sure what happened):

A mock-up of the right side (we want a strip of lights recessed into the shelf over the sink):

The left side (there will be fewer shelves, and only the lowest level will have UCLs):

My electrician would greatly prefer for me to go with direct-wire, but is willing to put in whatever I choose, so long as I do all of the research and get the correct components. He suggested that I get two transformers/adapters if I go with low-voltage - one for each side of the kitchen. I'm looking into both the Hafele Loox 2015 lights and Elemental LED flexible strip lights.

How are the shelves being nad? How thick are they? Can the wire be locaed within the shelf? Lights under the cabinets, or no? In the cabinets? The walls are still open, or no? If closed is the backsplash installed? Have to hide the driver and wires.

The shelves over the sink are made out of fir (to match the cabinets) and are 1.5 inches thick. They haven't been installed yet, so we can route a channel lighting/wiring.

Yes to lights under the cabinets (our plan is for lights under the open shelves on the left and under the cabinets and sink shelf on the right). No lights in the cabinets.

The walls aren't open anymore. Wiring was run for direct-wire lights, but the electrician is open to making changes. The backsplash hasn't been installed, so we can make some cuts, as needed.

The electrician's proposed plan was to hide a driver in an upper cabinet for the right side of the kitchen and hide another driver in the basement for the side with the open shelves.

Thank you so much for your help!

Ok, will work it out, likely take to monday.
Second driver can go in base cabinet no need to put in basement.
He may be thinking in terms of transformers wHaich are larger and hotter.
Are the shelves solid or a sandwich?

OK- 2 drivers. Each will come with one connector cable that is 78" long and a plug also that long. Length of the wire for the switches I'd the same if I remember right.

On the side with the cabinets I'd put a touch switch under one of the cabinets, will run all lights connected to the driver.on the side with just shelve locating the switch can be trickier. If shelves ar NOT solid it is a little easier to run the wire inside the shelf- then embed a touch switch in the side. The push button switch is shorter if you have to use it verticslly but the wire connection adds about 1/4" to the spec size. Alternative is a switched outlet.
For every length of track that you cut get a pair of end caps.
They angle track is nice if you want mor light on the backsplash but a pain to surface mount under cabinets and it sticks out a liTtle more. Get one length of the wire cover in whatever color suits. (Black, white, or brown).

For connecting between cabinets that are close I get the 19" jumpers and splice them shorter. Use crimp connectors (Radio Shack).
For the short corner on the shelf side a 2" jumper is fine
Since you can run several connections to a driver it can be easier to use extra connectors than just trying to string all the lights in a row. Particularly at the shelf over the sink. Hope the shelves are sandwiches, a lot easier for wiring and stiffer, more stable.
Connectors and jumpers are cheap, get extra.

Put the driver for the shelf side in the base cabinet- they fit behind a drawer. The other side in a wall cabinet out of the way, just watch your lengths.
I'll keep an eye out for this if you have questions.

You might want to see if there are any local dealers, the website you mentioned only has 20 percent off, ought to be able to find that or darn close. Best if it is someone who has used the line. They are not all listed on the Hafele site as dealers, might call. Many kitchen places handle Hafele.

Ended up in the office today as I'm slammed. Here is a list

2-833.72.762 - recessed tracks #
5- 833.72.768 pair end caps
1- 833.73.400 -roll Loox 2015 warm white, ioncludes one 2m drive connector
Note requires .2041 wats per inch

1- 833.74.715 - 1 15/15" daisy chain to turn corner of shelves.
2- 833.74.718 - drive connector (I'm suggesting connecting light under each wall cabinet directly to the driver, same for shelf over sink, and single run with one connection for "L" shaped shelves.
Alternatively get daisy chain connector cables- 833.74.716 (78") or 833.74.719 ( 19.625")
2-833.74.900 - 15 watt driver allow up to 73.5" of lights per driver. From what I can tell you have a total run by the sink of 77" so that should be fine and saves a couple of bucks. Could change and use one 30 watt driver # 833.74.901 and one 15
1- 833.89.040 - sensor switch
1- 833.89.049- silver switch housing-
Note care needed when installing switch into housing. There are small ribs in the holder that fit into shallow grooves in the housing. If not align and housing is installed tight it can disable the switch- doesn't usually damage it, just won't work until it is aligned.

There is no switch included in this for the side with just the shelves. Depends on how you want to do that. From the looks of it I lean toward a push switch # 833.89.044 mounted on the face of the micro compartment. I'd put the driver in that compartment behind the micro, use the same outlet that will already be there.

Jakuvall - I'm still processing everything that you wrote, but I just wanted to say THANK YOU!

I really appreciate your time. I'll check back in after I've digested the info you posted.

Thank you, thank you, thank you.

So, I matched up the Hafele codes and placed my order today. Thanks again for your help!