I'm doing higher counters because of a back injury. My perimeters will be 40'', which should be a comfortable height for general prep and also permit installation of a deep sink without making the sink's bottom too low. My island will be 38'', which should be a good height for kneading and stirring and also permit an overhang for sitting without requiring custom height chairs.

Two different heights provide comfortable levels for different types of work, but you also need to think about how they affect things like sinks, appliance installation, and seating.

I did not put in two counter heights. It's a nice idea but I don't think most small-to-medium kitchens have room for two different counter heights. I don't know if you noticed, but they also talk about how much same-height counterspace is needed around sinks and ranges/cooktops...which increases the amount of linear space you need in counter space to accommodate those multiple heights.

Interestingly, most of the NKBA Guidelines talk about "minimums", not "ideals", but I think if you have no special circumstances, this is an ideal and a "nice to have".

My DH and I discussed raising all our counters two inches since my ideal work height is around 38" and I'm the shortest in the house. But, we're trying to talk my mother into moving in with us now that she's alone. She's 4" shorter than me and we were afraid a 38" counter height would be too tall for her. I suppose we could have raised the cooktop side and not the sink side (the cooktop side is "my side" and where most of the work is done in the kitchen), but that would also be where my mother would work and would still be an issue. It would also mean different heights at the peninsula b/c 38" isn't a "standard" height that you can get stools for...and different heights would have eliminated the nice big workspace I have there (well, big to me!)

My new counters are two inches higher than the old. Drove me crazy for about a week. Now it's OK. I think they will be too tall for easy mixing but I have a couple of other options for that. I don't know why the original counters were only 34 inches tall. They were the built on to the wall variety so maybe that's the height they made them back then.

The older and creakier one gets the more one appreciates right height counters. Two different heights aren't really necessary, but common in a traditional kitchen where there was a work height counter and a rolling height table.

I wanted my counters higher. There is apparently a code issue here, where there's some tolerance for variation, but they want 36". Even though by the 6" from the elbow rule, that should be okay for me, I end up with a backache on marathon prep sessions at 36". The way the materials were stacking up, 36.5" worked without having to build an accommodation for the the dishwasher, so I compromised on that. but got the island at 38.125", which is much better for me for prep. Having the perimeter lower is better for using the mixer, and stirring large pots. It's amazing how much difference an inch and a half is!!

My original feature list included a rolling station. I decided I was fine shaping bread, dropping cookies, etc., on the island at the height it is. The stone island top is good and cold for rolling. So instead of a dropped rolling station, I decided to wear my tall clogs when I need more shoulder power on my rolling pin. Low tech solution, right? Though my folding table shelf, which is 30" high, is strong enough for rolling, and I could use it if I didn't mind getting flour all over it. It's a good height for sitting at (normal table height), and useful for writing, eating, plating beautiful trays, etc.

So those are the whys on why I have three levels. Are they needed? Absolutely not! They're just another useful tool.

Do check out the linked kitchen in the 1940/1950 kitchen thread. It shows how to put multiple work levels into a small kitchen.

Thanks everyone!

Ok, so if I want a 10" deep sink and I already get a back ache doing dishes in my 6" deep sink in a 35" counter height kitchen then it might be a good idea to have something higher for the sink wall?

What does one do for the corner cabinets if a whole wall's counter is a different height than an adjoining wall's?

How about the upper cabinets on that wall? We are planning on going to the ceiling with ours. Would you raise the bottom or just have it be closer to the counter?

Would you just raise the whole perimeter and perhaps have a lower island height?

What about around the range? I would imagine you can't come up higher than the range on the sides.

Here is a rough layout if that helps. I know some of you have seen it too much already. :o/

If you put a 10'' sink in a 35'' counter, the sink bottom will be 25'' from the floor...4'' lower than what you have now. Either get a shallower sink, taller counters, or plan to use something in the bottom of the sink to minimize the depth. If you search ''bac k pain'', there's a long thread here about back issues when washing dishes in a too-low sink.

You can have your GC/carpenter make platform bases to raise a range (or DW) up to the level of higher counters.

I'm planning to raise my upper cabs up as well, so I still have 18'' between the counter and the bottom of the upper cab to accommodate my blender, mixer, et al. This is personal preference vs your local building code.

Maybe someone will be able to answer your questions. Achieving different counter heights was one of the most difficult tasks in designing my kitchen. I never did figure out how to vary the heights of continuous counters attractively. My solution was to disconnect. Each area is a stand alone zone: clean-up (36'') , prep (32-33''-the floor slopes), cook (34'), and food storage & beverages (32'').

Sounds pretty fancy to me to have multiple heights! But if chronic back pain or other problems can be solved with varying heights of course it's sensible.

Traditionally, one might find a lower section for rolling out dough, or a higher section for sitting.

I do have a large section in my small kitchen that's at a baking height which is a great height for me cuz I'm short. I think if it ever stops collecting JUNK it'll be nice for chopping things (I've enjoyed working on a table in the past). And if I ever finish the kitchen and put a material that isn't leftover Marmoleum on it, it'll be nice for dough.

The real reason for it was I didn't want to raise a window. But I like it.

blessedathome your kitchen is large enough to find room for two different counter heights. The island is a great spot for a lower height like 34". Another idea is to change the U shape run of counter into separate sections that don't meet. Then you wouldn't lose space in corners, as the counters would just run to the wall.

As Cotehele discussed, we separated our different height counters. Our sink run is at 36 1/2", as is our 'breakfast center' counter (just means it's where the toaster oven sits and we store the bread, peanut butter, and the rare box of cereal). The island and mixer counter are about 33", and the run the rangetop is in, is 34" or a little more. The only 2 runs that might have been joined at the corner were the stove and sink runs. To eliminate the need to transition the heights, we framed in the corner and put in inset shelves facing the sink...So each run of counters runs into wall.

A fridge separates the 36" breakfast center and 33" baking/mixer area counters.

The varied heights are good for different tasks for our family, who, at this point, range from just under 4 ft (almost 6 yo ds) to 5'10...dh and oldest ds. I like to be able to knead and chop down without scrunching up my shoulders, and like to see easily into the mixer bowl and pots on the stoves...And I really like to have my kids in the kitchen without need for hazardous step stools.

Yes, the island could be lower. However, what you want is higher at the sink, and I think you could do that.

You could raise the counter at the sink and on that entire wall. I would leave the lower height on the range/oven and refrigerator walls if the 36" standard height is OK to work at. However, if you want it lower for a Baking Center, you will probably have to move the under-counter oven elsewhere where the height is at least the standard.

To accommodate the extra height, all except the corner cabinets could either be taller overall (ideal) or you could add "filler" b/w the top of the standard height cabinets and the counter. You will need to plan the "filler" to be sure it can support the weight of your countertop material. (Raising the cabinets by having a taller toekick area would not work b/c the toekicks really need to meet with the ones on the other runs, and they will be the standard height.)

I would probably use the "filler" method for the last 12" where the leg of the corner susan cabinet would be on the sink side. Alternatively, but not recommended, you could put in a (taller) blind corner cabinet on the sink side and just have the cabinets on the range/oven side meet that blind corner cabinet (you may need some filler b/w them to allow all doors/drawers to open on both sides).

Also note that a back ache can also be caused by having to lean too far in to reach the sink. If you have too big a piece in front of the sink b/w the edge of the counter & the edge of the sink, you may also experience back pain. Ditto for having to reach too far to get to the faucet/handles. I think an apron sink is probably the best type to get if you have back problems...you're right at the sink edge and no reaching back. But, most apron sinks are pretty deep, at least the ones I've seen.

I would not separate the legs & base of the "U" into separate pieces w/floorspace b/w them...you would lose a lot of cabinet & counter space if you did that.

Or, you could do what RHome410 did! You don't lose that much base cabinet space (4 sq ft) compared to what you would lose separating the legs & base of the "U" w/floorspace. As far as losing upper cabinet storage, you don't really lose any if you do something similar to what RHome410 did OR if you put in a deeper to-the-counter-upper cabinet (that would also make up for some of the space lost in the base cabinet.)

You do lose some nice corner workspace (like a place for a TV or a stand mixer or other small appliance), but you have enough workspace that I think you can afford to lose that one corner. Losing the corner b/w the range & refrigerator, though, would be an issue b/c of the proximity of the range to the corner as well as the workspace needed there.

Oh, I didn't address the backsplash area...you probably will want to keep that around 18" b/c you still need work room vertically and you want to have room for the tallest small appliance you own in case you want to use it on that counter (like when you have several people working in the kitchen & they each have their own spaceP).

You do lose some nice corner workspace (like a place for a TV or a stand mixer or other small appliance), but you have enough workspace that I think you can afford to lose that one corner.

One thing I've thought of since we did our kitchen is that the open area for the shelves could have come all the way down to the sink-run counter so that the counter flowed into it. It could have been made deeper as a place for the mixer or whatever (in our case, the fruit bowl), and it would have been easy to slide in and out.

Thank you for the advice everyone! And the photos. Photos are very helpful for me.

So, upon further thought this morning, I realized that my back only aches noticeably when I am expecting and doing dishes. Hmmm. Something to do with the extra inches in front perhaps? ;o) Sometimes I wonder about me. Honestly. :oP

Anyhoo, I think I will go about 36-38 inches on the whole perimeter and a bit lower with the island.

We are looking into a local father/son cabinet shop and they are flexible with measurements and don't charge much at all for small changes so we'll see.

Thanks again!