You could use a regular 24" base cabinet, or 27" inch extended depth cabinet (that may only come as sink bases or cooktop bases in many lines) and just pull them out from the wall to install them. Only the countertop is deeper, really.

Can your cabinet maker make deeper drawers? If so, I'd make the whole cabinet deeper rather than pull them out from the wall...why waste space behind the cabinets when you can increase your storage!

Would you do the whole run or just the cabinet next to the refrigerator? I think the whole run would be nice to get deeper workspace...especially if there's a sink b/c you can always use more room behind a sink!

Or, how about a Baking Center? Deeper counters for rolling out dough would be very nice as well!

I wish we had had the room for 30" deep counters on our cooktop side (which includes my Baking Center), but alas, we couldn't do it (not even 27").

Maybe with drawers you could work something out with oversized hardware, but you have to have space to be able to pull the drawers out into, and stand in front of comfortably, and if the base is too deep and it is a reach in, you will be on the floor pulling the stuff out way at the back.

There were ergonomic reasons in the development of cabinet depths and the standards developed based upon "reach" and things like that. Make things too deep and the back ends up dead space.

We had the cabinet run next to our refrigerator pulled out for just the reason you mentioned: I really didn't want the frig (which we kept from our old kitchen) to stick way out. Because we used IKEA cabinets we couldn't get deeper lowers so they were just installed out about 4 or 5 inches from the wall and the counter was made to that depth (it's in a run about 4 feet wide). I love having the extra depth. If I was building another kitchen I'd make all the counters deeper. And the frig doesn't look goofy either.

Full extension...no "reaching in"

Wide enough aisle, no problem opening into the aisle

You can always stand on the side if it's too deep for you to stand in front of it...but I don't think that would be the case (of course, I have long arms so maybe others will feel differently!)

Just for reference sake, here's the kitchen layout before I started changing up the fridge wall:

It would just be on that one side. Since they are custom cabinets, I think (haven't talk to the guy, but I assume) that I am not limited to standard depths. There shouldn't be a problem with space around this section, since nothing is close. I'm assuming I should go with drawers, so I can get to the back stuff easily? I was originally planning on doors there, which would be the only set of doors in the kitchen besides the sink.

I hadn't thought about making the whole set of lowers deeper, but I'm afraid I'd lose storage in the corner, since its an L shape. I'm barely able to fit a set of drawers next to the sink (any smaller and I think they'd be useless) and the corner cab. I'm going with inset cabinets, so it makes the space a little smaller...hence the deeper than usual uppers (14" instead of 12").

I see. The refrigerator & the cabinet in question are the only cabinets on that run! So, yes it definitely makes sense to make that cabinet deeper.

You're probably right about the other counters...you would most likely lose that 18" set of drawers. Additionally, the sink wall really can't be any deeper b/c of the door on the left wall (unless you can move that door????)

BTW...there's a good chance you'll need a filler b/w the wall and the refrigerator so you can open the refrigerator all the way (>90o).

I would absolutely do that since it's the only cabinet by the fridge. Just make sure you get full extension drawers and I think it's a great solution!

I did this in a number of places, from 25" to 30", and love it. As long as your countertop material comes in that width, you're golden. Enjoy!

I would definitely go deeper if they can be made that way. I never thought about it and then beuhl suggested (but it was after the fact) and it's a great idea!

Okay, great! Thanks for all the help! I'm going to ask for a 29" deep drawer cabinet there, then.

I have added a 4" broom closet/filler on the other side of the fridge. I went and played with my fridge to be at the appliance store, and the appliance guy and I figured that 4" would be enough. Do you think I'll need more? The fridge is a Samsung, and Samsung has brilliantly planned for my dilemma. You can pull the pantry drawer out all the way when the doors are almost 90 degrees, because they left a space for it on the doors.

I'm getting extra-deep lowers on my wet/prep/cooking side, and though we are going custom, my KD says they don't make full-extension drawers at 27", so we're just pulling the bases out from the walls and making the counter deeper. Even so, I'm looking forward to the extra counter space, as I like to have stuff on the counter as I work.

If you go with deep lowers, consider correspondingly adjusting the depth of any uppers.

Venice_2008...is it that your cabinetmaker doesn't make full-extension at 27" or that no one anywhere makes them?

Many cabinetmakers, especially stock manufacturers, are limited in what they offer.

Melanie1422...I honestly don't know if 4" is deep enough. I was thinking more like 6", but if you have a KD you're working with, I'd ask him/her. Or, you could call out to Live_Wire_Oak, Kompy, Paulines, or one of the other professional KDs here and ask.

Buehl, in truth, I don't know. My KD just told me that it couldn't be done, and I took her at her word, as she was quite emphatic. So, maybe it's specific to these cabinetmakers? Are you telling me it can be done?

The Blum Tandems come as long as 27" and 30". By the way, not all web sites I visited when I was searching for a 27" drawer slide carried the larger sizes.

I was planning on 4" because that's what the appliance guy told me, and that's what size people seem to use for a broom pullout on IkeaFans... I could do 6" if I need to though.

I hate that I can't remember who this photo belongs to, but this is kind of what I'm going for on that side. I'll put the micro on the counter, not in the cabinet, but otherwise its about right.

Do you think that's a 4" or a 6" pullout? I could swear it was a 4" when I saved the photo to begin with, but I'm not positive.

Here is my new and improved full layout, thanks to everyone here at GW. I don't know what I'd do without everyone here!

www.cabinetparts.com has 28" (unusual for US - standard is 3" difference so 18", 21", 24", 27", 30") Blum FE glides $110 for 6. If you want 3 drawers in your 29" deep cabinet that is (like my pots & pans cabinet). Family is the 566 so I'm not sure if they're blummotion or what. Look in the Basement Closeouts section of the website - if you're going 29" deep this may be a rare chance to get the glides, since Blum only advertises the 27"/30" sizes on their US website. HTH

Correction - site says box of 6 but if you do the math it's 6 pair. Need 3 more deep drawers anywhere else? Also, I looked at Basement terms and conditions, these are direct from Blum (discontinued? Maybe you'd better grab them!) full warranty but not returnable to cabinetparts.com Good luck!

Even if you don't need all 6 pairs, maybe you should get them anyway. If they're a closeout item, Blum may be discontinuing them and it would be nice to have extras on hand in case something happens down the road many years from now.

Since the run of cabinets is small, I would definitely do the deep bases. I do not like refrigerators sticking out either. I would ALSO pull forward or increase the depth of the cabinet Over the refrigerator so the Top of the refrigerator is not sticking out too.

However, I see another potential problem with your plan:

You have reduced cabinet depth behind the outside door. However the Width is only 27" and the door is wider than 27". You will not be able to open the door to 90-degrees--you will bang the door into the corner of the counter where the dishwasher is.

That is potentially an inconvenience. In my area this interference would also be a code issue.

Melanie, what brand of fridge are you putting in there? The one in your inspiration photo is a Liebherr, and I have it in the same configuration (mirror imaged). The thing about Liebherrs is that their doors rotate on a pivot, so they don't need any special clearance space -- except for however wide you want to be able to swing it to be comfortable for your use. Other brands might require a bit more room? But I think you can rely on the KD and the fridge documentation (get it online if you don't have the fridge in your hands yet) to tell you the exact requirements involved.

Mid-construction photo; I deepened the cabs/counters & have a 9" wide set of pantry drawers on the hinge side of the fridge:

annes_arbor and ajsmama, v. interesting -- time for another conversation with KD. She's going to love me more than she already does.

I just called Blum about installing glides for my new drawers, asked them about the 566H7000C they said they are full extension Tandem but not Blumotion. My Tandem Plus work fine (even the 36" wide pots & pans drawers) so I don't think you need Blumotion. These are "older" (discontinued) so unless you want to change your cabinet depth www.cabinetparts.com might be the only place to get these. The standard Tandem locking devices (sold separately - also you will need mounting brackets) will work with these. I'd grab the glides now, ask your cabinetmaker if he'll get the locks and brackets when he gets the others (I'm assuming you're putting Blum on all your drawers).

In most refrigerators, to remove drawer bins you need to open the refrigerator quite a bit more than 90o. Yes, 90o is fine for everyday use, but when you want to remove the drawers, you want to be sure you can open the door as wide as possible to "clear" the door and whatever else is on the door.

Actually, check with cabinetmaker about drawer depth for 29" deep cabinet. I'm not sure about custom, since my Merillat cabinets use 18" deep drawer for 21" deep cabinet (bath vanity) and 21" deep drawer for 24" deep (kitchen) cabinet, maybe you shouldn't get much closer. Seems like I have a lot of wasted space behind my drawers with 3", but then again 1" may not be enough to mount glides correctly and not have drawer backs hit the mounting brackets, so you may be better off with 27" (yes, Virginia, they make them LOL!) instead of the discontinued 28".

Okay! Just got back from cabinet guy, who said no big deal on the 29" deep cab. He said it wouldn't be a problem at all, and it "wouldn't cost but a couple of extra bucks".

The fridge in the insp. is a Liebherr, but I'm going with a FD Samsung. I just used that photo for the narrow pullout next to the fridge. Here is the inside of the Samsung I will buy:

The bottom, full width drawer is the Cool Select Pantry. It pulls completely out when the doors are open only 90 degrees, because of the openings left on the doors. The two crisper drawers pull ALMOST all of the way out, but if I needed to actually get them completely out, I could take the bins off of the doors and get them out. Does that all make sense? So I am not too worried about not being able to open the one FD all the way.

I do have that weird shallow cabinet by the door. The door can't be moved, and if I make it where the door opens flat, I'd have to give up on having that set of full depth drawers on that side. However - the kitchen I tore out had a full depth cab. there, and the door never opened more than about 45 degrees. The kitchen I tore out was installed in 03. With the new cabinet design, the door will not open perfectly, but it will open a lot more than it ever did before. I understand that in a perfect world, the door would open completely, but I am just trying to get a workable, non-rotten kitchen at this point.

I am hopefully not too far away from putting the deposit on the cabs! I am starting to get really excited! Thanks everyone for your help!

Did you ask him how deep the drawers would be in a 29" deep cabinet?

I didn't, unfortunately, because I didn't see what yall had written until after I talked to him. However, I will ask him tomorrow.

Blum is pretty tight on its tolerances, so ask him how deep the drawer would be and tell him what kind of glide you want before he makes the drawers (the 28" ones have to be for a 28" long drawer, no more than 5/8" thick sides). Side thickness shouldn't be a problem unless he usually builds everything incl. drawer boxes out of 1x4 (3/4" thick) stock.