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momoxan

Proposed Kitchen Layout - Need Advice

15 years ago

Hi there - so glad I discovered this wonderful forum. We've just received out first pass at the cabinetry design. I know we need to make a few tweaks.

Problem: the pantry as currently designed 24" wide (1 fixed shelf, 4 pullouts). This isn't big enough for my family of 5. We need lots of storage for dry/canned goods and baking supplies. I can reduce the 18" cabinet next to the refrigerator to give more width to the pantry but am confused about how small I can go and still have a space that is useful. I'm guessing a tray cabinet can't be smaller than 10" wide, and I wouldn't want a spice rack that far away from the range (which is on the other side of the room).

Also, I am thinking that single drawers on top of the two 34" cabinet (each w/2 rollouts) are two wide and will become a dump station. We have way too many utensils, but would it be better to do two sets of 2-16" drawers?

We are already increasing the depth of the pantry/refrigerator cabinet to 28" so the 27 cu.ft. LG fridge won't stick out too far. The upper cabs will go all the way up to the 9' ceilings.

THANKS for input for these questions and any other red flags you see.

Images #2 and 3 are the main cabinet run, #1 is the range side.

Here is a link that might be useful: MX Kitchen Plan - ver1

Comments (18)

  • 15 years ago

    Wow. A range, with a foot of landing space on each side, ten feet from the sink? No drawers?

  • 15 years ago

    Honestly? It's not very functional...unless you never use your range. The range is much too far away from the sink and it has far too little landing & workspace around it.

    What will be in the middle of the room? A table? If so, that makes it even worse b/c now the table is a barrier b/w the range and everything else.

    Where do all the doors go?

    How flexible are you? Can the window be moved? Can any of the doors/doorways be moved or changed?


    Try this for the top wall, left to right:

    1" filler + 20" cabinet + 30" range + 30" drawer base + 18" trash pullout + 36" sink + 24" DW + 30" drawer base + 37" refrigerator + 33" pantry + 3/4" filler (unless there's door trim around the doorway on the right)

    On the bottom wall (left to right):

    33" Pantry cabinet + 33" cabinet containing washer & dryer

    If the W & D are behind cabinet doors, they won't be "unsightly".

  • 15 years ago

    BTW...you're probably not receiving emails of follow-up postings, even though you checked the box requesting them. This is b/c you don't have the email option turned on in your profile. See the "Read Me" thread for more information. Scroll down to the post with the subject "Getting Emails Sent To You...3-step Process".

    Here is a link that might be useful: Read Me If You're New To GW Kitchens!

  • 15 years ago

    If anything... and assuming the WD has to be in the kitchen, I'd move that to the area where the range is shown. Then... all the same questions buehl has.

  • 15 years ago

    Here's my $.02... I would put the range where cab #8 is, and a 36" cab where the washer/dryer is. That way you have a nice bit of counter on either side of the range. Your range will be closer to the sink and prepping area too. Move the washer dryer to where the range is and add another pantry next to it for things less used, but still needed in the kitchen perhaps. Better to have your clean clothes away from where all the food cooking is going on.

  • 15 years ago

    OK...here are two options, depending on which door is the busiest. The range & Cooking Zone should be protected and have the least traffic flowing through it.

    Unfortunately, I don't have time for details, but keep in mind that the actually cabinets (drawers vs cabinets) are up to you (but I recommend as many drawer bases as possible). Additionally, the cabinet sizes can vary a bit to accommodate what you need/want. These are just rough drafts to show you what general configuration would probably work best in your space.



    ..


  • 15 years ago

    As others have already pointed out, there are some pretty substantial problems with the proposed layout. Before getting into the details of where things could go, I wanted to ask whether you were able to do some minor structural changes that would allow for some vast improvements in functionality. The two main changes I'd suggest are (1) moving the door that's near the W/D to center it on that wall and (2) extend the opposite wall several feet to create a walk-in pantry and make the kitchen a nice-sized galley layout. These changes would solve the problems others noted and it would give you a much larger pantry space, which it sounds like you'd like. If those two changes are possible, you will open yourself up to many, many more options to make this a functional layout.

    In case my description isn't clear, here's the basic idea I was trying to explain...

  • 15 years ago

    No time to lay it out, but you might even think about a corner cabinet in Layout #2...make the 48" cabinet 42", move the range to the left 6", put in a 36" corner susan, turn the corner and put in a 24" cabinet...more counter space, if you need it.

    Keep the trash pullout b/w the range & sink and the DW on the side of the sink opposite the range, regardless of which layout you use.

  • 15 years ago

    Holligator has a good idea, too, if you can move doorways around...

    You might even put your Prep & Cooking Zones on the new "bottom" wall...with the range and a prep sink. I'd then switch the refrigerator & pantry so the ref is across from the range.

    You might even be able to add a wall oven + MW oven stack or change to a cooktop + double wall oven.

  • 15 years ago

    I agree with Jenhp. Move the range up to that top run. To make room for it, move the washer-dryer down to where the range is. Having the range where it is currently shown is a frankly terrible design, not just because it gives you so little workspace around the range but also because it's unsafe (you'll be carrying pots of just-boiled pasta water across the room to drain, etc.).

    Keep your cooking tasks in one part of the room and your laundry tasks in another. There is NO BENEFIT, and in this design there are a lot of drawbacks, to having both those tasks on the same wall.

  • 15 years ago

    It's time now to hear from momoxan...she has yet to return and give us feedback on the ideas we've presented and the layouts Holligator and I have come up with for her.

  • 15 years ago

    Hi all and THANKS for your thoughtful replies. A little backstory: this is the house I grew up in, we are building an addition so my mom can move to an accessible ground floor suite, and my family of 4 is moving in upstairs. We decided to re-do the wreck of a kitchen when we realized our combined family would be best served with a more usuable configuration, however, there is no budget to move walls, windows, etc.
    Some answers to questions:
    -The east door opens to the yard, and can't be moved because the electrical panel/meter is on the other side.
    -The west door opens to the dining room/main eating space
    -The south door opens to the hall leading to my mom's suite
    -The open space is actually unusable - it's the basement access and underside of stairway
    -The sink needs to stay where it is as it's centered on the existing windows.
    We had considered an island, but as is, there is just barely 36" all around to have a 48x30 island, but there would not be enough room to stand in front of an open oven.
    I had actually thought about flipping the range and W/D placement, so Buehl's Layout #2 is very attractive. We're in a holding pattern due to some permit issues, so now would be the time to make a change. And the best part is we would now have room for a small island - that wouldn't be in the middle of the path btw the range and sink. Nothing like a little perspective!

    Other materials chosen:
    cabinets -white thermofoil
    flooring- Marmoleum
    counter - Caesarstone Cement

  • 15 years ago

    My husband and I have been trying to get creative - here's our 2nd pass - with the new range/washer location. We think the 36x28 pantry space will be big enough, and got crazy and added the counter height desk that I always wanted. This was made from the existing house plans, so shows what's going on with the other walls/doors. We're still debating whether or not to add an island - I'm thinking we'll probably just do a butcher block work table that can move if necessary. Thanks again!!!

  • 15 years ago

    I'm not sure you will have room for a 36" pantry...both b/w the west wall and window as well as in general. You've used up 258-3/4" of the 259-3/4" along that wall. However...

    • Realistically, you will probably have 1/8" to 1/4" b/w the range and adjacent cabinets (I know, some say you can have 0" clearance b/w them. However, in reality, you will need some to be able to move it in to & out of position when installing/removing for repair and cleaning under & behind. This means you need some "wiggle room" b/w the cabinets and range.)

    You will need 1/2" to 1" of filler b/w the walls and cabinets on each end.

    If you look at your KD's plan, notice there's 1" of filler b/w the cabinet on the left & the wall and 2" of filler b/w the cabinet on the right & the wall. That's not to "use up" 3", it's to allow you room to clear the walls when the opening drawers/doors of your base and upper cabinets. BTW...doors need more filler to allow them to fully open than do drawers and pullouts (pullouts, not roll out tray shelves (ROTS). ROTS have doors, so cabinets w/ROTS need more filler than drawers.)

    One caveat to this: If your cabinets are framed/partial overlay or framed/inset, you won't need as much filler to allow opening/closing doors & drawers. With inset, in particular, you probably won't need any filler for the doors & drawers.
    You are assuming the walls are close to perfectly straight all the way up from the floor to the ceiling. This is not the case in the majority of houses. If your walls aren't perfectly straight, you will also need filler to accommodate that, especially with tall cabinets (b/c they're all one cabinet & must fit the entire height of your room).

    Note that partial overlay and inset do not necessarily eliminate filler needs with uneven walls. (There are ways around this, especially with custom and some semi-custom lines...if the stile/frame on the cabinet side next to the wall is wider than normal, you can sometimes scribe cabinets to fit wall imperfections. However, you will need a very experienced installer with a good "attention to every detail" attitude to make this work...not all that common, unfortunately.)
    Window...you really should have at least 3" or so b/w the window and adjacent cabinets for "breathing room" as well as "paint room". Yes, you can go right up to the window trim, but you don't want your window to be crowded and look cramped.


    Desk...Most people remove desks when remodeling b/c they've found them to be clutter magnets. Instead, I suggest creating a Message/Command Center. It can still hold your calendar and/or message board, but also set it up so it contains your keys, phone/camera/iPod chargers, mail (organized!), phone books/directories, etc. I suggest a standard 24" deep cabinet (with 25.5" deep counters) and no seat. I did put a seat in the layout, but I suggest you eliminate it. It's up to you.


    Here's what it would look like with a small, fixed...

  • 15 years ago

    thank you again - I like the command center idea, but we will probably still do a counter-height surface with some drawers. I am a compulsive clutter-buster, so hopefully it won't become a dumping ground. Will post the new cabinet elevations asap.

  • 15 years ago

    Getting all the kitchen functions on one wall is a definite improvement.

    Here is a proposal: I'm assuming you have a stackable washer and dryer, right? Why not unstack them and put them next to each other inside a laundry closet, where they show up in Beuhl's drawing above.

    Why?
    1. The laundry functions hide this way.
    2. You can set the laundry baskets on a counter that runs over the washer and dryer (or just on top of the w+d)inside the closet while you are doing laundry, or even let the dirty laundry collect in there, if desired)
    3. With a good light in there, you could use the counter for folding and or ironing. See link below for a magnetic ironing mat that can go on the dryer.
    3. Containing the W/D in a closet will help make for a quieter kitchen.
    4. This would give you approx 60" of uppers over the w/d.

    Even if you left the W/D stacked, I would still put them in a closet. You could then have a small area to hang clothes next to the w/d as they come out of the dryer,some shelves, and maybe put baskets or hampers below.

    If you do a google search for "laundry closet" you'll see lots of great ideas.

    A command center can be shallow and could go on one of the other walls, perhaps by the door to the backyard. Maybe Beuhl will share a picture of her cute calendar niche as an example. : )

    Here is a link that might be useful: Magnetic ironing mat

  • 15 years ago

    ok - I can feel that we are getting closer -

    To laughable's comments - unfortunately we can't use the door along the wall to the backyard - between the utility closet and the door swing, there is little free wall space for a shallow commond center. Right now we have the W/D in a separate stacked cabinets. Thank goodness that we are tall and have high ceilings so we will use the space above for extra storage. The hamper will get stored in the utility closet.

    Please see below the revised plans. There are still a few things I'm trying to work out:

    - am close to ordering a Broan 30" Elite E6400 undercabinet range exhaust. I know 36" would be better, but we're not big fryers, and if we do, our range has a center burner that we could use to make sure any heavy grilling or fryer happens in the center (best laid plans, I'm sure). My husband likes this better than the chimney style, and since I haven't let him choose ANYTHING, I can make this concession. We would need to add an additional cabinet for that space.

    - For the base cabs on either side of the range (2 @ 24" & 1 @ 28") I think I would prefer drawers instead of doors with rollout trays, but I want to make sure I'm maximizing my storage for pots, pans, mixing bowls, storage bowls with this new configuration. I suppose I could still have a shallow pullout in some of the drawers for lids, etc.


    Here's the revised floorplan with a few notes:

    Here's our new main run - my notes got cut off about the upper cab to the left of the range being 6-lite glass doors and the addition of an upper cab for the exhaust hood.

    And here's the new wall with W/D and our command center (which needs to be corrected as counter height)

    THANKS.

  • 15 years ago

    Your last plan looks pretty good, but the island is very much in the wrong place.