Will your 18" pantry next to the fridge be full height or lower only as shown? It looks a little awkward as drawn, but I have seen plenty full height units next to fridges ending a run that look great.

Apologies aa, the planner software wouldn't let me put a full height and depth 18" pantry at the end run but that is the intention.

What are the dimensions of your space?

Pantry...Is there a reason you are removing a walk-in pantry? Access to items in a walk-in pantry is usually much better than a pantry cabinet. Walk-in, step-in, or reach-in pantry advantages over a pantry cabinet: You can use the entire height of the space, floor-to-ceiling
You can see everything at once without having to pull open each roll out tray shelf (and risk things falling off when you pull the shelf out)
With the shallower shelves possible, you don't lose things in the back. Most of us have found that items on shelves deeper than 15" or so have a tendency to get lost and disorganized as you move things out of the way in the front to access the items in the back. This is an issue with all types of pantries with shelves > 15" or so.

I have 12" deep shelves and I can fit all small appliances except my toaster oven on the shelves - including a breadmaker, KA stand mixer, toaster, waffle iron, large food processor, coffee maker, blender, etc. My KD tried to talk me into pantry cabinets (after all, KDs make much more money on expensive pantry cabinets than walk/step/reach-in pantries), but I stood firm and am so glad I did!

If you're thinking of the pantry gadgets that fold in on themselves, the hardware and space needed b/w the "arms" takes up quite a bit of space. In addition, you still have the potential of needing to open several arms to find anything. Lastly, they usually do not hold larger containers or boxes very well.

From what I have seen here, most people replace pantry cabs with walk-in, step-in, or reach-in pantries. (Mine is a step-in - only room for one step into it!)

Refrigerator...Is this a standard depth refrigerator or counter-depth? Regardless of type, keep in mind that you must include the doors and handles in the refrigerator's depth measurement. Too many people ignore the handles only to find out when the refrigerator is installed that the handles stick out an extra 2 or 3 inches and that they do indeed negatively impact the aisle space. It's not like the handles can be retracted when not in use (at least none that I have seen! - hmmm...this might be a great idea for a patent...)

I also suggest you "build in" the refrigerator to make it look more "finished"...install plain 3/4" finished end panels on each side of the refrigerator to the depth of the refrigerator carcass/box (not doors) and then pull out the upper cabinet so it's flush with the front of the refrigerator carcass (or get one deep enough to use the entire space). The doors need to extend out past the end panels to open fully.

I saw you replied about the 18" pantry on left being full height/full depth - since it is, you would only need a finished end panel on the right side of the refrigerator.

Corner...Keep in mind that with drawers on each side and no corner susan or corner drawers you will need filler on each side to ensure the drawers open past the drawer front + pulls/knobs on the cabinet around the corner. You will probably need 3" or so on each side of the corner. I think I see it in your drawing, but I'm not sure.

Is there a reason you are putting in the drawers like that and not using a corner susan or corner drawers? You're losing approx 6" of cabinet space with this setup. If you put in a corner susan (my preference), you can use it to hold small appliances and/or pots & pans. All my posts & pans, colanders, and some serving pieces fit in my 36" corner susan in my old kitchen - and it was the cabinet that held up the best over time. It was great having whatever I wanted right in front of me (by rotating the shelf) - especially for heavy pots and pans.

If you are willing to consider a corner susan, your cabinets could be (assuming I did see 3" of filler in the drawings):

Range wall: 36" corner susan + 15" cabinet (for cooling racks and/or cookie sheets) + 30" range + 24" drawer base

Sink wall: 36" corner susan + 15" cabinet (for cutting boards and/or long casserole dishes and/or extra cooling racks & cookie sheets) + 18" trash pullout + 30" sink + 24" DW + 24" drawer base.

Note that I would prefer: 36" corner susan + 24" drawer base + 18" trash pullout + 30" sink + 24" DW + 15" drawer base for foils, wraps, and plastic bags.
The main reason being that I would rather have more space b/w the sink and range for prepping than space b/w the refrigerator and sink. You would still have 39" (24" + 15") between them for a snack or beverage center. Your only water source is the one sink, so your prepping will most likely end up b/w the sink and range, regardless of plans.

Island...How deep is your seating overhang? It should be at least 15" of clear space. This means 15" behind the 12" cabinets + faux door or end panel, if any. This would also allow you to have a wider cabinet on the end: 1.5" counter overhang + 12" deep cabinets + 1" decorative door/end panel + 15" overhang = 29.5" deep island (I wold make it 30"). Then, the cabinet on the end could be 27" wide: 1.5" overhang + 27" wide cabinet + 1.5" overhang = 30".

However, this will depend on the dimensions of your space (in particular the distance b/w the window wall and the wall with the message board behind the island) as well as your aisle width b/w the sink cabinet run and island and, possibly, the total depth of your refrigerator.

I might not be understanding this right. You want to put 24" deep pantry cabs into a walk in pantry in lieu of shelves?

The pantry is definitely a problem:
- the door is 24", I am a bigger/taller gal and it is near impossible for me to actually walk into my walk in pantry
- the door, when open, completely blocks the opening into the dining room, through which is how people have to come to get to the kitchen/family room/back yard/garage/basement. It's a total bottle neck.

Here are some pics, 'scuse the mess and the ipod picture quality:

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So really nothing about this pantry is working for me. The shelves on the sides come almost to the door trim on the interior so I was thinking a wider door isn't going to work? See this:

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So I was just planning on gutting the space and lining up the cabs on the back wall. I am open to other solutions however...

Fridge:
current one is standard depth, I was thinking we'd either a) get a counter depth one or b) build out the wall of cabs to come up to the edge of the fridge or c) get a CD all fridge and keep the freezer stuff 6 steps away in the garage freezer. Hmm...

Corner susan - was thinking I'd get more use out of wider drawers than the the corner susan. Must rethink this, I had a susan in my last kitchen and it held all of my small appliances except the crockpots.

Overhang - thanks for the dimensions! Will plan accordingly. Aisles are going to be tight but (I think) doable.

Here are the room dimensions though with a slightly different cabinet layout:

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From the sink wall to the message wall is exactly 12 feet. 28.5" from the corner to the edge of the window over the sink, 93.5" wide window, about 24" in from each side of the window is where the fixed window is, flanked by crank out panes. I'm not married to the idea of centering the sink but I would like to keep it under the fixed pane.

Updated the plans:

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Significant changes were the Susan cab in corner and:
range wall, bases: 15" base, 30" range, 24" base
range wall, uppers: some kind of blind corner (I hate diagonal uppers) with 30x39 glass door cab, 36" hood, 18x39 glass door cab

sink wall: 30" drawer base, 30" sink base, 24" dishwasher, 24" drawer base, 36" fridge (standard depth for now, CD later), 18" pantry full height/depth.
Over fridge cab and pantry will be built out, glass front upper next to window is 18x39.

Trash will have to go under the sink, planning on a rear corner drain so there will be more space under there. Possibly a second trash pullout in the island, facing the stool side. And a 15" overhang for the seating sides.

Thoughts?

I tried out the island aisles this evening by moving my kids' huge lego table into the kitchen and widths work fine. Not huge but def. comfortable for dh and I to move around with kidlets intermingling.

how about having doors to the cab left of fridge open on the side? better access to what is in it, not as deep to lose things in the back, no need for pull outs (not good uo high anyway). We've had a few gw'rs do this and it looks great - and like so much better access to the space.

the other pantry - put in a wider door. make the side shelves shallower. Is what you are thinking of putting there those huge pull out racks? That'd drive me nuts to pull out a huge section every time I needed something.

These are just little things (partly about ikea).

Be careful about having an open base. The bottom shelf and easily the next one up will get dirty frequently.

Not sure the 3 bears 12" deep base cabinets will be nice to look at or that the 12" deep drawers will be useful enough to have a lot of them. Ikea drawers tend to be about 3" shorter than the cabinet. Maybe take some stuff to your ikea (or borrow similar things from the marketplace area).

It looks neater if you buy the oven side panels for the ref cabinet arrangement - so you can pull your taller, deep cabinets out to the depth of the ref body and make a nice uniform structure - so think about doing the panels on the outside of the full depth pantry cab and the outside of the ref facing the sink area. Pull the pantry cabinet and the over the ref cabinet forward to line up with the ref. At least the pantry cabinet likely needed a cover panel anyway - the difference between the cover panels and the oven cabinet panel is the depth of the panel.

Every exposed surface of every cabinet needs a cover panel. So cabinets 1, 13, 14, 15, 18, 7 and the island need cover panels on one or two sides. This changes the width of the cabinets by 1/2" per panel.

The island needs a way to tie all of cabinets together. You can use a constructed toe kick (make a box outta 2 x 4s, cover with plywood or particle board, then cover visible edge with ikea toe kick material) to help by providing a flat, level surface you can screw through from inside the cabinet. You can use cover panels on the cabinet backw also to give the structure some stiffness - if its short enough for another oven panel or you can use cabinet ply or painted beadboard. But, you have to use SOMETHING across the back.

Some localities get annoying about requiring outlets in the island. Its a good thing to check on before finalizing the exact cabinet sizes in case you need a filler panel somewhere containing outlets.

hth - it looks pretty!

Thanks all for the feedback!

desertsteph - The end pantry could definitely open from the side, great idea!

bmorepanic - the oven panels - are they the big sheets of cover panels? We used them on the front of the island in my last ikea kitchen and they worked great! Good point about the open shelving, will reconsider that.

If the 12" deep drawers aren't large enough to be useful what would you suggest there? I was thinking of making them my "junk drawers" and small kitchen tool drawers like the egg slicer, pastry blender, blades for the food procesor, cheese grater, lemon zester, etc.