Sounds fishy to me. Lasers that go through the counters?

I'd take off the counters to be safe.

Maybe somebody else knows about this.

Thanks, clg, I'm hoping someone will post that knows more about this.

i think with the counter top off they can tell about things like are the cab backs flush to the wall or not... are there any gaps or places filled in that might cause a problem.

maybe there isn't, but you might want to know about those things ahead of time. and maybe they won't matter to templating for the new counter. I'd call another fabricator to get a 3rd opinion. or maybe an installer will post here.

Thank you desertsteph! Still hoping an installer will post, or someone who has done it this way. I guess I can insist that they take the existing counters off even though they say they don't need to.

For what it's worth, my fabricator/installer used a laser to template. It was a very sophisticated process and actually took quite a long time to do. My counters fit almost perfectly, but there was one spot along the sink wall where the wall was not perfectly straight and resulted in a small gap between the counter and the wall. It wasn't a problem for me as I tiled the backsplash and it totally covered the gap. However, if I had just wanted a painted wall in the backsplash area, I'd have been in trouble! Hope this helps!

Taking off the tops is the old fashioned (and inconvenient way.) The new GPS like system that any modern fabricator uses to template is extremely accurate. Heck, the old balsa wood strips is extremely accurate and didn't require that you remove your old tops either!

Installing the counters over old tops is insane, but templating with them there isn't a big deal.

My granite installer measured everything with my counters in place. He noted that my walls were very straight and even, but there were no problems at all. I did tile the backsplash, but prior to that and after the granite install I didn't notice any problem. He didn't use a laser, either. Having said that, I do think that going without a kitchen for a week is a small price to pay for perfect measurements if you are concerned.

"One installer (Silestone certified) says he won't have to remove the existing countertops to create the templates for the Silestone because they use lasers that go through the existing countertops."

It is technically possible to make measurements using some sort of reflected light or sound, but the accuracy is not what you need for a countertop. Not only do you need length, but you need to check squareness and levelling.

I can't think of an affordable technology that can show whether the existing countertop is hiding shims, wobbly walls, or has rotted out.

Bite the bullet, remove the old, have it templated, and slap some cheap lumber on them so you can cook for a week or two.

Sounds like the safest thing to do is to pull out the old countertops for templating. The installer that wants to use laser technology is regional, and is one that is used by HD, but I am dealing directly with the installer. They gave me the best price, but I think I need to see some installations by them as well as the next one up in price.

Thanks so much for all the replies! I always appreciate the input I receive from fellow GW members!

so many people on here seem to miss the issue at heart. Everyone is giving you advice relative to the quality of the cabinets and their installation. You asked if some can make a template with a laser and will it fit.

You can debate the answer all day long if you want.
The post who mentions the measurement with a laser took a long time is correct. The machine that cuts the top is laser guided with a bar code on the top in the shop. That machine is $1,000,000 and people on here have suggested he is going to use a tape measure from lowes with a laser on here? The tool they use is hooked to a lap top and the process takes 2-4 hours before the laptop has all the info to do the job when there is not countertop on there. I have a retail store and have had some of the tops measured with this equipment. Frankly the old fashion way seems much easier if you look at it from an uneducated point of view. Most of your larger up to date shops use this method. It used to be done by a high end camera and reflective tape and place cards. The laser is the newest way. A lot of shops that sell silestone have the machine that uses this method.

The basic requirements are that the cabinets do not varry more the 1/4 out of level for them to get the seams right. Take your tops off in time to make any adjustments to install in time for them to come and you can address all the advice of looking for things that need to be fixed.

We template anytime either with counters on our bases of cabinets. There are many ways to template- we use cardboard and laser systems. The laser systems are all different and accurate. If you are going with tile- then I wouldnt stress, there will be a slight gap between your wall and counter... for instance mine has less than 1/8 of a gap- which is not bad at all... I still have not put up tile yet and some areas are more gappy than others- because no wall is perfectly straight- my house is 20+ years old and a straight cut sometimes butts against the wall and sometimes it doesnt. So if you are going with a backslash- no worries- just make sure your overhang on the edges over your cabinets is consistent- that is more important than what will be butted against a wall.... hope I didnt confuse you or ramble too much (i tend to ramble)

Thanks for these last two posts--very helpful information. I was hoping to not replace the tile backsplash, but one installer said I will have to due to the difference in thickness of the laminate and the 3cm Silestone. So I will have a way to deal with the unevenness at the back side of the counter. I'm feeling much better about my lower estimate! (I know...still need to do my homework)

by the way... you can get silestone in 2cm thickness.... and do a laminated edge to give your counters a thicker appeal on the edges... just an option

Thanks, vidaprodiga. I was told that the money saved by using 2cm would pretty much be offset by the cost of the laminated edge, although I might be able to keep existing tile. It's still something to keep in mind, but my tile probably should be replaced since it's just standard 4x4 white tile. It blends in right now because everything else is white too, but after replacing the white laminate with the Silestone I've selected, it will stand out and I'm sure I'll wish I had replaced it!