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ans_garden

Newbie with ambition

19 years ago

Greetings fellow craft-lovers! I've been lurking for a few months as I started messing around with mosaics this winter to sustain me until gardening time. This is such a great forum - great support & ideas, I just had to get some feedback on my latest project. I may have taken on too much...helppppppp!

I want to re-do the top of a table to use as on outdoor piece (I'm in zone 4/5), except winter. The table is metal with a 3/4" lip for the top to sit on. I've decided on stained glass on Wedi-board. The design is an enlarged photo covered with wax paper, then nylon mesh onto which I'll glue the glass. When that dries, I'll lift & set this onto the Wedi-board covered with thinset, then grout & seal.

I wanted to use the leaf pattern of one of my favorite plants, 'Jack Frost' Brunnera, because I love the silver-white color of the leaf with green veins combination. I'm essentially using only 3 colors of glass; white (actually 2 shades for the leaf color), dark green (shaded areas), and brown (for 1-inch border). I'll use white thinset under the white glass, and green grout to double as the veining.

So, anything not covered? Two concerns I have: 1)The mesh came in 12" squares, so I just laid them on the pattern slightly overlapping thinking the glue will hold it together so that I can lift it all on one piece (approx 13" x 22"). It's wrinked in some places, but I thought I would just cut it to lay flat.

2)I'm using Weldbond to glue onto the mesh so I don't have to use a toxic glue (I have kids milling about all the time). I'm hoping the thinset will keep the glass from coming loose if the Weldbond fails, or should I switch to Silicon GE II (are there fumes to worry about)?

If anything else, this can be a project on what NOT to do - I'm happy to post progress reports & mishaps :)

There are 3 pictures so far:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k245/ans_garden/Mosaics/Lipfortabletop.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k245/ans_garden/Mosaics/Newtabletopplan.jpg

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k245/ans_garden/Mosaics/StartingLeaf.jpg

Let me know if the link doesn't work - I'm a bit new on this. Thanks,

Anne

Comments (17)

  • 19 years ago

    IMHO it doesn't look like you need help at all. Seems you've covered the bases, and to ME, it sounds good. Others w/help too where I've failed to see any problems, cuz I've never used the mesh.

  • 19 years ago

    Hi Anne,
    Sounds like you'll be more than capable of working out any kinks.
    But where oh where are you getting the Wedi???
    I can't find it anywhere.
    Linlee

  • 19 years ago

    I see one or two minor problems - but they may not be. . . .how vague is that?

    First - are you going to turn over the mesh and then soak it off after setting the glass in the thinset - as in the indirect method of mosaicing? Or are you setting the pieces on the mesh and then sinking the mesh into the thinset?

    Secondly - are the areas of mesh overlap higher than the surrounding glass areas? If so - that will translate to an uneven table top . . .

  • 19 years ago

    linlee - I can buy the Wedi here locally in Minneapolis. I haven't seen it online anywhere. Lovely stuff and should be a good application for this table as it is relatively small. However, it IS expensive - $35 for a 15" x 24" sheet, which is one reason I don't want to totally goof this up.

    mosaicwench - fortunately, I don't need to flip the mesh; I'm just doing it this way because I'm 'copying' the pattern and need to see it, if that makes sense. I'm concerned about the overlap as well, but I'm not sure how to connect the pieces. The pattern is detailed enough that I'm not sure I can transfer the mesh/glass in pieces & reassemble it on the thinset. Do you have any ideas?

  • 19 years ago

    Seems to me you could make the thinset thick enough for the overlaps to sink down into. Otherwise, you'd probably want to make marks with a non-permanent marker, wherever you need things to line up. Just like a sewing pattern.

  • 19 years ago

    I agree with mad, carefully set and sink the mesh using a press board so that it all goes down evenly and I think you can escape the overlap problem that wench points to.

    can't wait to see

  • 19 years ago

    OK, I've been reading some latest posts and think I need to buy some Silicon GE II. If the thinset doesn't have enough contact with my glass (through the mesh), then I'll have glass popping off - is that right that Weldbond isn't water -er- Minnesota PROOF?

  • 19 years ago

    Hey ANS, the links worked fine. Looks like a beautiful thing in progress!
    A little fyi...in photobucket, if you click on the MIDDLE link under your pic, it will flash a yellow box that says "copied", then, directly in your post, right click and paste. It will post your pic directly into your post.

    Welcome! --Veronica

  • 19 years ago

    Unfortunately, weldbond isn't waterproof. A litte confusion for me, tho. Can't you just skip that part and use the thinset to adhere the glass to the tabletop? Sorta like laying regular tile. I **think** if you attach the wedi board to the tabletop, smear thinset out and set the mesh/glass on it, use the pressing board suggested above and let the whole shebang set up - should be okay. Lots easier than trying to get a solid, level coat of thinset and let that set before you use the GEII to attach the mesh. Course, may be missing something, been at work since 4AM, so the world is a little foggy right now. LOL!!

    Pat

  • 19 years ago

    LOL, I think you're fogged in Pat!

    Ans, the weldbond is only meant to be a temp adhesive, heck you could use elmers. The point of the mesh is to allow your thinset to come through and adhere the glass, at that point the mesh isn't really a part of the integrity just a tool to get you there. Do you understand what I'm trying to say?

    It 's sounds to me like you are fine, except that all the info on this method says to cut the edges of the mesh to fit perfectly, so I'm concerned about your overlap.

  • 19 years ago

    I've never done anything to use thinset yet but what do you do with what oozes up between the tiles?

  • 19 years ago

    Just like any other glue, if it comes up into the interstices you pick it out before it sets. But generally it's mixed pretty thick and doesn't really move, like cold peanut butter.

  • 19 years ago

    Wooooo-hoooooo - I've been wondering how to do that! Thanks Veronica. So then, here's a pic of progress today - just cuz:
    {{!gwi}}

    nicethyme - what you say about the mesh is what I had hoped to be true and that the thinset will mush up enough to grab onto the glass. Think I will trim the mesh as I go. I'm rarely working for more than an hour at a time (3 kids & DH in grad school), so using thinset as the adhesive would not be very practical and I'd rather use the weldbond. Or maybe I'll get the silicon and do an experiment?? Hmmmm. Maybe I'm in over my head as it is...

    curbdriver - well, I'm not sure what to say, except to ask if they call you that because of the way you drive at 4am??LOL! Get a little shut-eye first & re-read, or don't bother - it may put you back to sleep. As it is, I think this project is going to be a loooooooonnnng haul.

    Thanks all for the feedback,
    Anne

  • 19 years ago

    awesome! you're doing great, keep us updated!

  • 19 years ago

    Great job - very nice cutting. Ring saw? Or nipping???

  • 19 years ago

    OMG - I'm not doing either. I have cheap hand glass cutter from a stained glass class I once took. The edges are not that great - you can't really tell from the photo - I use a groziers(? also from class) to nip out rounded edges. It is labor-intensive! In mosaics, irregular pieces add to the overall appeal, I think, so I'm hoping the clumsy cutting will not be detrimental - lol! Thanks so much for the encouragement.

  • 19 years ago

    A girl who believes like I do on irregular cuts making your mosaic more interesting. I TOTALLY agree. Girlie, you are GOOD w/those tools.

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