There should always be shims, preferably composite shims. Also the tyvek house wrap should never be used to waterproof the opening. Beutal based flashing material should go over the nailing flange on 3 sides (left side, right side, and across the top). The flashing should never be put across the bottom of the window. This is very important because the water needs a place to weep out. If the flashing is put across all 4 sides water will build up and rot your sills. Also every Marvin window delivery comes with a set of maunufacturers reccommended install procedure. You can also download it off of the Marvin web site, assuming the contractor blew his nose with it and threw it out. I would not let them install anymore windows until you feel its being done properly. You could also post a picture.

http://www.integritywindows.com/download/documents/Installation/All%20Ultrex%20Window%20Instuctions.pdf

Jere is the link to the installation instructions. Good luck.

Is your installer a Marvin window contractor or just some guy you hired to do the installation?

Sounds to me like your framer is installing windows which is always a crap shoot. I would certainly look for someone else to fix the installed windows ad install the balance.

Can you post up some pictures?

Agree, this situation sounds rather strange. The OP seems to have used a framer to do a window installation which never ends with desired results.

Thanks for all the messages! Been out of town a few days.

Yes, you are correct - my contractor did hire a framer to install these windows. My builder's out for a few days so we have a lull in the work which is good to give us time to figure this out. My contractor said he would definitely make sure the windows were centered and agreed that this was critical. I presume that means they will be raised with shims. Looks like the windows are secured with screws too so not sure they need the shims underneath if screwed in higher? I will insist on composite material if shims are used.
But there is still the issue of rough opening prep and what type of flashing is appropriate. There is no tape between the window and the wood frame. The windows are installed flush with the outside of the house. So not sure positive drainage is as important?

Around here it seems pretty typical that the tyrex goes up sometimes after windows? Not sure thats a good thing. Not sure this matters but we are using spray foam insulation. And the contactor was planning on the low expansion insulation around the window.

Attaching pictures. But can't really see the small differences in the gaps.

Thanks again

More pictures.

Sorry. Couldn't figure out how to get all pictures in one post.

If you go to youtube, www.youtube.com and search for,window installion videos you will see the right way to install windows. A lot of manufacturers have posted videos and some home improvement sites also. See the link below to get started.

Here is a link that might be useful: Link to window installation on youtube

This is very early in the install process so don't panic. However, this is what should be done:
(1) Integrity's corner keys need to applied and sealed with a compatible product . The two that are recommended are OSI EP 1000 or DAP 230 . This same sealant should have been applied behind the nailing fin (before the window was installed) on the sides and top but not the bottom. Again before the window is put into the opening, the sealant should be applied to create a back dam along the sill and up the sides so that any water that should find its way into the opening will drain out onto the weather plane.
(2) Window needs to be flashed (again using a compatible product). Marvin/Integrity recommends Vycor Pro which is butyl based. Other butyl products are okay but most do not have the special adhesive qualities of the Pro. Do not use asphalt based products or non compatible sealants as the plasticizers in the vinyl nailing fin will react with the asphalt/sealant and turn it to a black gooey mess.
The preferred method of the two that are part of ASTM's and AAMA' specs purports flashing the opening prior to the window installation and then counter- flashing the fin. What your installer has done (if he continues with recommended steps 1 and 2 ) is okay. However, if you get a lot of weather, I would have him remove this window and start over. Again, the web has lots of information if you need clarification. This information is also probably in Marvin/Integrity's instructions.
Using compatible products and following the manufacturer's recommendations are key.

For starters, I don't see any extension jambs.

Well, there are no extention jambs I believe because we are drywall wrapping with only a sill on bottom.

Eastbay thanks for the info. If the installers properly install the corner fins, and have caulked underneath the window, are you saying maybe just fin tape to the vapor barrier could be okay ?

I've seen 5-6 videos on installation. There are difference in what people think is needed in terms of self adhesive flashing, metal flashing strips, amounts of caulk. I wasnt' sure there was a generally accepted minimum as what is needed? My dentist tells me to floss twice a day. I do three times a week and haven't had a cavities in years. Sorry TMI, I'm just wondering if there could be local differences on what types of flashing are needed? In fact the Marvin Integrity installation guidelines state right there in the RO prep section that are differences in how to prep an opening given different climates and requirements. We will see what my contractor recommends when he returns. He has been very good and responsive so far. I just want to be ready for the conversation.

Are some types of flashing added only after the window is installed into the opening? Could tyvex tape, tyvex and head flashing be enough in some places?

We live in a cold but dry, high desert environment, 16 inches of precip a year. So not a lot of wet weather. 100 inches of snow in the winter In summer we get monsoons which bring short intense, may rain an inch in 20 minutes. Over 260 days of sunshine a year.

Thanks again.

This post was edited by 1westerngal on Wed, Mar 20, 13 at 1:36

What about sill flashing which is done prior to window install?