What kind of glass are you trying to cut, as opal glass is harder to get a straight line out of. When you are scoring, are you doing so with a matching firmness all thru your score? Sometimes a score is weaker the further away you move from your body so I had to learn to have firm even pressure thru my whole score. Also, are you using glass that is room temperature? They say not to cut glass if it is cold. Also when breaking it, are you lining up your breaking pliers right along the score line? Are the pliers right side up? and you could try to apply pressure at one end till you hear a slight cracking sound and then go to the other end and do the same as it will give it a head start, sometimes if you are cutting a sheet of glass that is long, this will be a good idea. I always stand when I'm cutting/scoring so I can apply the even and firmness I need, and to see where my pattern line is(I use a light box and copy the pattern that way) It took me a while to get any kind of even break, I just stumbled along till I got it, but you may also want to try practicing on some scrap glass if you have some. I hope that this helps and that someone else pipes in to help, as I'm not good at typing what I mean.

They all say it takes practice! Don't ask me, I haven't practiced enough yet LOL. ***sigh** I'm getting better, but some of my cuts look like they went into the twilight zone. Practice on cheap clear glass. I think you just have to get the feel for it.

I found I was much better at smaller pieces instead of trying to cut up a whole big sheet into squares.I think YouTube may have a video.

Maria

Maybe you're applying too much pressure? Are there little glass flakes on your score line? There shouldn't be.
Practice..don't give up!!

My biggest boo boo was finding that I needed to open the oiler screw on my toyo cutter, that helped lots. I still make plenty of dagger shapes but like you said, I can nip them up into usable glass. I always stand when scoring and I let my glass warm up after bringing it out of the basement too. I really think alot of failures are due to the types of glass, my success varies from type to type

I know everyone else has said it but I'll say it again. Try with some cheap glass to practice with. I had gone to the second hand store and would buy old ugly picture frames and take the glass out and cut the glass up to practice with.

Don't give up though!!! You will get the hang of it in know time!!!!

What I found is I used to use too much pressure. I love it when I do a good score, you'll learn to hear it.( unless its the harder to cut glass) you will get a sizziling sound.

I don't think you said what kind of cutter you are using? I use the pistol grip one and found that works the best for me. I have tried them all in class and was happy with the toyo pistol grip.

Thanks guys. I am using a toyo suppercutter. I finally figured out the oil screw isssue and felt that would fix my problem but obviously there are other issues. I think I am making several mistakes based on what you have said, AND I need to practice. I should stand when cutting, and I think I have applied to much pressure at times. Yes, I have had glass shards on my glass when scoring. I am cutting wissmach? and cathedral glass but I did figure out to cut on the smooth side. The other glass I had was smooth on both sides and that is the only one I have been successful getting a good cut from. I have always purchased stuff precut and just use the nippers but I felt cheated in my color choices. AND I HAD to try the glass cutting to see if I could do it.

Thanks so much for your input. I will keep practicing. I have glass I want to put on my last Christmas tree so I can finish that project this weekend. Cross your fingers for me!!

Make sure your cutter is straight up & down ... don't angle it like a pen. This makes all the difference in the world ! Too much pressure will also ruin your cut. Usually you can hear a "Skritching" sound when your pressure is just right. ( Not all the time - but listen for it ) I've probably cut a zillion pieces of glass in my lifetime ... once you get the hang of it - it will be easy !

Sunshine...
I am a beginner myself... and hesitate a bit to even chime in. However... I too, was having a hard time with the breaking part until I tightened up my 'running pliers.' I'm glad to know what they are called! just a little They were not quite close enough together and the glass broke awkwardly sometimes.. and I couldn't get the small pieces to break at all very well. I think too... that I maybe had the tip too close to the edge of the glass. When I tightened and brought them in just a tad... it's worked much better.. for me. OR... it may just be that I've gotten a bit better with the cutter. I'm to uneducated to even know! :) The rough glass... even when I too learned to cut on the flat side.. doesn't seem to break as well for me.
We'll all just keep at it! And... thanks again, and again for what everyone shares here!
Katie

Great advice from everyone - I'll just add one tip - run your scorer on your palm to see if the oil is actually coming out - makes a difference if it's dispensing oil, and to reiterate to keep the light pressure on - from beginning and all the way to the end of your cut.

another tip that worked great for me was to have a slightly softer surface under my glass. So instead of being right on my cutting board, I lay a tin dish towel between it and my glass. I don't know why but having that bit of cushion has helped my cutting emensely (that cannot be spelled right)

Nicethyme -THANKS! I didn't know that the oiler screw was supposed to be opened. I had about 5 minutes before I had to leave for work and tried it open...what a difference.

Tomorrow, some serious glass cutting LOL!!

Maria

Yeah ya know - I was so PO'd that they don't send an instruct sheet telling you that! in fact nobody does because they assume we're not THAT stupid! LOL

they should not assume it of me I'll tell ya! LOL

btw, my other post should read thin dish towel, not tin - I don't have tin dish towels really!

Nicethyme-I was wondering about the dish towels. I thought maybe there was something else I needed to know about....that's how clueless I am about what I'm doing with this glass!

Thanks to all for your help! When I get better at it I will let you know!

NT.. I was wondering, but wan't going to ask! LOL! I though I picked on you enough today.

Maria

NT, I have never heard (or read) that you were suppose to take the oil cap off when scoring. Geez, you think they would tell you that on their package. I think some of the stained glass/mosaic tools are horrible with their packaging - no instructions, no information.

Sunshine, don't feel bad. I have 3 scorers, two I bought this past year, and I still prefer my old one. I bought a Toyo Supercutter (pistol grip) like yours and I don't like it. I don't like that the cutter head is not rigid. Mine has movement in it and sometimes I don't get a straight cut because of it. The other one I bought recently is the Aanruka cutter, it has a trigger on it that you squeeze to release the oil. I wrote the company because I had so much trouble cutting with it. Even with his advice, I don't like it. So my preference is my first one, about 3 years old, a Diamondtech; nothing fancy, just works and makes a straight cut. So, the gist of my story is that it is not always the user, sometimes its the tool. They have to be compatible.

D3bbi has a piont with the cutters, I have 2 pistol grip ones and one has a loose head and thought"What the heck is going on??" But I just tightened it and it is okay now, but it's funny that I still prefer the other one that I've never had trouble with?!?! Sheesh! And I think ALL US Newbies, get thrilled with cathedral glass and it is sooo different to cut than most other glass!!! Thicker!
Ya, I thought I had to go out and find me some tin towels!!heh heh!
FiddleKate had a great tip about bringing your pliers in a bit from the edge too!!

Ok, all you TOYO USERS: I got one of these back in July. I seem to be able to get straight cuts and straight breaks using it, much of the time anyway. But I DO have a question. The screw-in cap, on the threads, is it SUPPOSED to have a flat side running through the threads? I know that doesn't make sense, but I think I took a picture of it when I discovered this. Let me see if I can find it...
Ok, found it, saved it for web, transferred it to photobucket, and Heeeeerrrre it Is:

Not very clear, but where it looks flat, it IS. Is that normal?? Does that have something to do with needing to open it when you use it? I didn't know about that either, btw...

Ronnie, yes that's right. I think it's shaped that way to allow air in when you loosen the screw, air in makes oil flow out.