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Glass on glass glue

October 3, 2005

If there is anyone that does glass on glass mosaics? I would greatly appreciate your opinion on glues.I have a rather large panel that I will be gluing glass to and then grouting.It will be for inside,but the glue most dry clear due to the clear glass being applied.I'm rather confused with the different info I have found.Also if anyone has any pictures of glass on glass mosaics I would love to see them if possible.

Thank you so much

Kathy in Md.

Comments (56)

  • garden_tramp


    great site for adhesive help. Weldbond is best glass to glass but you work my finish slower because it evaportes to clear it can sometime take a while if you are using alot because of size, but it's still the best! And no nasty fumes!


  • maddy58

    I've just today completed a glass on glass glued with Selleys All Clear Water Barrier Multipurpose Sealant. I certainly hope it lasts over time as my instructor recommended against Weldbond. It dries clear. Good luck!

  • deeshine

    I use Bond 527 which dries clear in an hour.


  • Ottawa

    What about UHU Creativ for Mosaics? I just picked some up this morning after trying Weldbond last night. Has anyone used this? I know fumes will be an issue, but if it dries clear and reasonably quickly (a day or two), I'm willing to put up with that.

  • dragonlady_cathy_hotmail_com

    I have a huge glass candlestick (very heavy) that's broken. We tried super glue and that didn't work. Any suggestions for me?

  • d3bbi

    For repairs of glass on glass I've used E6000. I've also used it for lots of mosaics which has been glass on pottery and concrete. I've found Weldbond's seal breaks if exposed to water/moisture such as when grouting. I won't use it (Weldbond) again for anything outside.


  • texaswild

    GE II Silicon for doors/windows.

  • nicethyme

    what is E6000? this is the snd post in 2 days that I've seen it mentioned.

  • texaswild

    It's a craft glue similar to silicon, found at HobLob and other places. Smells a little bad and dries very quickly so it's a little difficult to work with. There is also E9000. They are sorta expensive.

  • stjohnsgypsy

    Lexel adhesive....clearer than GEII..........indoors/outdoors.....very strong.

  • silvamae

    I would like to try this adhesive from Delphi Stained Glass - wonder how well it works? It sounds great.


  • hrsg

    I too use Lexel, and it works very well. It also is not very expensive.

  • curbdiver1954

    hrsg and stjohnsgypsy - where do ya'll get the Lexel? Hopefully someplace like Home Depot, Lowe's, Hobby Lobby...

  • nicethyme

    I'm also curious as to the consistancy of Lexel, is it thick enough to support vertical pieces quickly?

  • stjohnsgypsy

    Purchase Lexel from WitsEnd off the net. www.mosaic-witsend.com

  • hrsg

    You can get Lexell at any home improvement store I believe. I get mine form the local Taylor's. It bonds fast and secure.

  • solar_maya

    Thank goodness for you all! I have been looking for this info forever. I will check out your leads. Has anyone tried a glass mosaic on a pane of clear glass using lacquer as the fixative instead of other kinds of adhesive? I want a kind of watery effect with no grouting. Someone told me that would work. What about some kind of craft acrylic that people use to make those really tacky seashell-encrusted mirrors (they're tacky, but I saw one that was absolutely beautiful once). I have tried different clear painter's acrylics but they dry too cloudy.

  • sunshine_funshine

    I used Lexel on all my bowling balls. I think GEII adheres quicker, but Lexel is really good too. The Lexel clean up or harder too. GEII scrapes off easier IMO. The only place I can find it is Ace Hardware or TrueValue. Don't have it here at HD or Lowe's. I bought my first batch from Witsend in the large caulk gun size. Won't do that again. Caulk guns are extremely messy!! The smaller size is more expensive, but I don't loose as much so it's more cost effective for me.

  • curbdiver1954

    Sunshine, one way to cut down on the caulk gun mess and still save $ on the GEII is to gun it into a large syringe, then plug the caulk gun with a nail and some tape to keep it from drying out. Use the silicon in the syringe to squeeze out on your bits and pieces. I tuck a snack size plastic bag into a shot glass and stick the syringe in there between pieces to retard drying out while I fiddle with placement. If there is still naterial in the syringe when I am done for the day, I stick a push pin into the hole where the needle would normally go. (a little squeeze out of sillicon helps make the seal pretty airtight). If it's several days before I can get back to work, there may be a little dried plug in the syringe, but that comes out easily enough with a piece of copper wire run thru the hole.


  • haziemoon

    I got alot of air bubbles on my gog from GEII, and ended up
    having to pry it all off and scrap the whole thing.
    That 527 is alot thinner and causes less bubbles.


  • sunshine_funshine

    What is 527? Is that also Lexel?

  • toomuchglass

    Bond 527 - I've never heard of it - but it sounds good !

    Here is a link that might be useful: Bond 527

  • wackyweeder

    Be careful with the Bond 527. I liked it, but it does not appear to be waterproof. I did several globes and when I went to clean them months later as they were dusty, pieces fell off right and left. The glue stayed on the globe and the piece fell off. I never had this problem with the e-6000. I have had a piece out on the sun, rain, hose, etc for 2 years with no problems.

  • sunshine_funshine

    Went out and bought some e6000 today to give a try. I am really frustrated with the GEII. I am just a slob when it comes to using it. It's on everything!! I HATE CLEANING IT UP! So, figured I would try this and see how much of a mess I make with it. There was another glue I purchased from Michael's and used that was really easy clean up, but I don't remember the name and couldn't find the bottle today. Only used it on indoor things too. Oh well. Thanks for the info. guys!!

  • ba1je

    weldbond for indoor gog--dries clear--cleans up with water--easy to use. does take a long while to dry tho, but i hardly ever grout right away anyway ....barb

  • mosaicandpainting

    I am working with a school group glueing glass pieces onto the bottom side of glass food serving dishes. Would Lexel be waterproof and low odor as well as nontoxic?

  • haziemoon

    My Lexel tube says...indoor /outdoor but not waterproof,

    Silicone may be your best bet with kids.

  • mmqchdygg

    isn't that an oxy-moron or something?...indoor/outdoor, but not waterproof??? Aparently never heard of a little thing called RAIN...???!!!

    Good thread!

  • toomuchglass

    I Was all set to go out and buy that UV glue and the whole set up. I called the mfg and asked every question I can think of. He said - the UV rays 'cure' it .... but if I'm going to make something to place outside into hot sun ...the UV rays will also weaken it. He didn't recommend it for anything in direct sunlight.

  • Mermaid

    -thought you might want to see this too, so i bumped it
    By the way, I have completely forgotten to tell you all I have had great luck with lexel, Used it to make sir wiggle and it has been in torrential rains for the past three days and so far so good..

    dont' know about it for gog , but it does dry very clear, and it doesnt' seem to smell as bad as geii

  • kathypaws

    I would like input on gluing rice paper to glass. What type of glue would you recommend? It will be indoors, but in a bathroom window.

  • Mermaid

    Kathy, I don't have a clue what you would use for rice paper. I actually put rice paper on a garage window, but it was one of the sticky peel off sheets so that doesn't count.

    I am really scared now that I actually read all of the info on Lexel. Poor Sir Wiggle has been in four days of torrential rains so far and if Lexel says not waterproof. I am going to scream. I read the indoor outdoor and just thought well.. that means rain is okay.. It is an oxymoron just like mmqchdygg said back in Dec. I bought the lexel at our true value cuz the guy who works there recommended it over silicone for what I was doing.

    I'll be sure and let you know if he melts like the witch in the wizard of ox, though he isn't in that story, does anyone melt in Alice?? LOL
    sorry, i'm getting giddy over all the glue fumes from the bank exchange.

  • texasfern

    I, too, prefer Weldbond for glass on glass if it is indoors. Takes a bit to dry, but I never seem to be in a hurry at my age anymore! (I used to procrastinate, now my excuse is my age.)

  • sciencepat

    I have a large (5' x 4') bathroom mirror that is losing its silvering right above the faucet. I'd like to glue small ceramic tiles around the edge to cover it up. What adhesive would I use? Could I put the tiles right next to each other or would I have to grout? Could I use an assortment of small stones?


  • texaswild

    You can use anything your creativity leads you to use to glue onto it. For the adhesive I'd use GE II silicon for windows and doors, if I were mosaicing that project. I'd probably go wild and do more than just cover the loss of silver part, going around all the edges, corners - whatever. Get creative and make it a wowzer. Your choice whether or not to grout.

  • davomosaicist

    Hello, I would much apretiate some one to help me to find the propper glue or silicon to glue glass on glass vertical,,I recently made this huge double side view glass mosaic 12feet x 5feet, I glued the glass mosaics with silicon, I got a few bubbles not big deal but after a 3 weeks the worst thing come over: most of the glass pieces showed a white(not transparent)
    mark, something like white scraps, I dont know what happend, soo I started to remove those pieces,Is like a nightmare,,Do you know a glue that is cristal clear, for indoors, that drys not to fast and that dont give me that white marks after a couple of weeks? I think you guys know what im talking about, my client is very upset with me and want me to fix it, but I dont know what glue should I use,,help!! (sorry for my english) thank you

  • mmqchdygg

    has the glue experiment thread been bumped lately? Lemme go find it again, Dave.

  • davomosaicist

    Hey mmqchdygg:
    Have you gotten off your mom yet? Im still waiting for my answer.

  • mmqchdygg

    not sure what you're talking about, Dave, but I bumped it right behind this thread back on 9/17. I'll go bump it again...

  • flalohakaki

    I just used e6000 glue for a glas on glass piece. It had plenty of working time that allowed me to adjust pieces as I worked, but when it dried, you could see where the glue was applied on both the clear-to-clear glass as well as the colored cathedrals, so I think it is not viscous enough. I need a glue that dries clear, no hint of glue lines and is preferably waterproof. Any know for sure of such a critter?

  • deedeebird

    I need a glue that dries clear, no hint of glue lines and is preferably waterproof. Gluing large pieces of glass vertically.

  • plentyofpatterns

    I'm new to this site. I am a stained glass artist but am now going to do my first mosaic.
    I have an old wooden cabinet that has two glass doors.

    I will be cutting out the main 'story' pieces from textured semi-transparent glasses and plan to adhere all of this to the existing glass on the cabinet doors then do the mosaic work around it. I plan to incorporate some nice flat stones I've collected from various places I have vacationed at into the art piece.

    I have removed the doors so that I am working on the horizontal, so there is no problem with waiting for the adhesive to set.

    From what I am reading, It sounds like "weldbond" may be a good choice. I would like it to dry clear.
    I plan to use black grout in the project. There are lights inside of the cabinet that will illuminate the project when finished.

    I am hoping I am on the right track.

    Does anyone have any suggestions?

  • wackyweeder

    Weldbond is a very satisfactory product. There are some issues with it-foremost is drying time. It can take some time for the weldbond to dry to clear especially under large pieces. One of the ways of dealing with this is to apply glue around the outside edge of the piece and not in the middle.

    Ill refer you to this thread for some advice-

    In particular there is this info from the manufac. in there-

    Lots of info in there! also MAC glue might be something you might consider.
    Its a long thread but very informative. Good luck!

  • plentyofpatterns

    Thanks for the info thread. I've read through all the info! I feel happy with my purchase of Weldbond yesterday.
    Love the fact its Nice non-toxic and an easy product to work with!
    Glued on my 'cut out' larger pieces last night leaving the airspace in centers. Tested today for strength and SO far, So good.
    After working with copper foil and solder for many years this seems too inexpensive and fun to be true! I think I'm going to love the mosaic process.
    I purchased Polyblend Sanded grout for when I get to that part of the project. Am I on the right track with that?
    Being a rookie at mosiacs I sure appreciate the input.

  • jandjward2_q_com

    Ijhave just finished a glass on glass project chipped stain glass on a glass set in a picture frame. I used welbond but some of the pieces are taking a long time to dry clear so I can grout it? I have set it in front of a small heater but worried as glass fram may not be tempered glass. How can I speed things up so I can grout it for a upcoming art show?

  • Gentry Good

    Okay so I read about the first 10 of these. I'm having an issue with air bubbles once it's all dry and I'm using the E6000 has anyone else had this issue? If not, what am I doing wrong? Both pieces of glass are clean and looks great when I glue them but once it dries it has air bubbles. Please help!!

  • lepisto

    I use E6000 as well. However, if you are gluing clear gog, then you need to apply the glue thick. Then when you place it on the other piece of glass you need to press it down and work at pressing any air bubble that are present out to the sides of the glass piece. This sometimes takes a lot of pressure applied on the pieces of glass. Sometimes my fingers actually get sore. I take a flashlight sometimes and shine the light on the glass to check out the seal to make sure there are no more bubbles. If there are then I apply pressure to that spot that has the air bubble. This works for me. I end up with clear glass with no air bubbles - but again, you have to work the bubbles out!

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