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todd_from_tn

glass on glass mosaic window questions

18 years ago

Hello, everyone, I have a couple of questions about how to make glass on glass mosaics (i.e., arranging stained glass pieces on a clear & framed glass panel). I have several years experiences in doing leaded stained glass but am new to mosaics. Here are my questions:

1. Is silicone glue the best material to use to secure the mosaic stained glass pieces to the glass in the frame?

2. Once the mosaic glass pieces have been secured, what is the best matieral to fill in the gaps, sanded grout, cement, or some other material? I should also say that I'm planning for there to be relatively large spaces (up to an an inch) between the mosaic glass pieces, so I need the material to have plenty of strength and support.

Thanks in advance for any helpful guidance.

Comments (12)

  • 18 years ago

    Welcome Todd!
    I haven't done a gog yet, but I know you'll get lots of info from others about it.
    I do have one comment though. It seems to me than an inch between your spaces is way too much. That's going to block out a LOT of your light, leaving a black void. I personally wouldn't have a grout line over 1/4 inch.

  • 18 years ago

    Welcome Todd,

    I did a GOG lamp shade. Scrap glass on an yucky lamp. I used silicone and regular sanded grout. I think there are other glues you can use. I am just used to using silicone.

    It is very important to be sure to get the glue filled in under your glass especially the edges to keep the grout from creeping under the stained glass you are adding to the sheet of glass.

    I am in agreement on the inch wide spacing. Unless it is a special part of the design, like a thick tree trunk you want dark, I would hold the spacing down to 1/4 inch or less. The grout blocks a lot of the light.

    And please post picturs. <:>Chris

    Here is a link that might be useful: GOG Lamp Shade

  • 18 years ago

    Thanks for the great input; I appreciate your help. I asked the question about the spacing/gaps because I actually do intend for there to be significant dark areas in the design. In my work with leaded stained glass, I've experimented a lot with juxtaposing black glass with stained glass and have found that the dark areas give the colored/stained glass more accentuated "pop". One of the reasons I've become interested in mosaics is that the medium would give me more geometric flexibility, both with the colored areas and the dark areas of the design. I just want to make sure that the material I use to fill in the gaps between the stained glass will provide enough strength, since those spaces will cover a significant amount of the surface area.

  • 18 years ago

    Todd,
    I think it would also make a difference if your piece will be inside our outside.

    My only concern is if the grout will stick to wide areas of glass?

    I got to thinking on this and as the tree trunk idea. I can picture the tree of grout with leaves in glass and how it would make the glass leaves pop.

    You might just try a small version of your project first and see if there are any problems you would come up against. Even to the point of just gluing down some bits of glass on an 8 by 10 sheet of glass widely spaced and grout and see what happens. You could put something like this together in minutes. No design just to test the spacing and how the grout adhears to the glass.Also get the feel of gluing down the glass and see what happens if you do not get the edges on each piece sealed.

    Chris

  • 18 years ago

    SHADES! I thoroughly enjoyed all 50 pics...twice!!! You are the QUEEN of Tables!!! And Louise> Hubba Hubba!!
    Welocome Todd! A couple of comments, GOG that I do is usually with silicone, but silicone looks better depending on what glass you will use. colored, textured glass types look okay but clear or sometimes pale colored glass or non textured glass can show the silicone, or perhaps I just don't take the time to smooth it out as good as I can. Also I too do not recomment more than 1inch grout lines, but a suggestion might be to add black glass in those areas, solid black, to off set the width of the grout. AND my last suggestion is to go to a Tile Shop to get the grout as box stores do not have true black and also have a bigger selection of colored grout. It sounds like you will be opening up a whole new window(lol)for yourself with trying GOG! And just so you know, we LUV pics of work in projects! Hope you stick around, the more the merrier! Oh, and another idea that I'm toying with is to go to a glass store and ask what they use to glue glass to glass as they have some good stuff, but it boils down to price and what I'm willing to spend, and how complicated it is. Right now I cut open a small tube of silicone and gloop away and am happy with that...

  • 18 years ago

    Welcome, TOD. Re the wide areas w/grout, I'd suggest you add some kind of adhesive to the grout so it'll stay on the glass - either Weldbond or mortar. When I grouted my bathroom counter, I mixed mortar and grout together - about half/half. It's a very strong adhesive grout. If it's for an inside piece, Weldbond w/work as well.

  • 18 years ago

    Welcome, Todd. Can't offer anything to your question but will read with interest what others recommend and hope to see your work in progress.

  • 18 years ago

    Todd - most everyone else has answered your questions thoroughly but I'll add my 2 cents.

    Use opaque glass rather than grout for dark areas. Grout is meant as a filler for small areas and has no adhesive qualities. I have plenty of opaque colors of glass that let NO light through, but still look like part of the design. I'm afraid by using grout as a large portion of your negative space the end result will lack cohesion.

    I've included a link to my GOG windows. Please feel free to ask any questions you like. If you look at the one titled 7th Window, you'll see vast area of opaque glass that form the dark areas. There is grout between all the glass pieces, but those dark areas are formed with opaque glass.

    Here is a link that might be useful: Glass on glass mosaics

  • 18 years ago

    Welcome Todd! I got homesick when I saw your user name. My maiden name is Todd and I'm from Tennessee. Still home to me...
    Anyway, have nothing to add to the expert advice you've been given except to reemphasize making sure your glue seals all the edges of your glass so you don't get grout creep. Think almost all of us have had that problem. And wench, always more than happy to have a chance to drool over your windows. They are amazing.

  • 18 years ago

    Wench, that's the word I was looking for...opaque..instead of solid!

  • 18 years ago

    Welcome Todd! I do a stained glass pattern look myself. You might want to look at a post I did on page 4 (GOG window done - different tech.) I find it easier to work this way, than to glue each piece. The contact paper holds the glass till I'm completely done. And I can pick it up and grind on it several times. Ladies, would thin set adhere better than grout? Would the grout stick to the silicone if Todd used the indirect method? Sorry I don't have the answers. Let us know how and what you do. Inquiring minds want to know!

  • 9 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I have a situation that I wonder if any of you have experienced and how you solved it. I have made my 2nd glass on glass mosaic window. The glue (I use Weld bond) is drying super super slow between the glass pieces. It seems to have dried quickly around the edges of the pieces, but isn't drying in the middle of the pieces. I want to wait until it's completely dry before I grout it because I think that'll retard the drying process even more (maybe even NEVER dry). I've placed the window outside in the sun for days at a time, I've placed it against the wall by an air conditioning vent, and I'm now trying a blow dryer both sides of the glass. That might work, but the amount of time placing the hairdryer on each un-dried piece is too much.

    Has anyone else had this issue? How'd you solve it?

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