Thanks, Jerseygirl! Hoping to hear from Mrstan...

Me too. Where is the picture, please? I missed it.

I am sooooo sorry. I knew there was something I was "supposed" to post, and I couldn't for the life of me, remember what it was.

Reposting the pic for reference...

[{{gwi:1858500}}
Aaaaanyway. Here it goes. There may be a more efficient way of doing it, but my plans changed mid project... so here is how I did it.

I cut 16 12"x12" squares of chipboard. Did a basic upholster on these (same as you would do on a dining room chair) I used a very thin foam.

Then mounted these upholstered squares on a large piece of chipboard (about 4 inches bigger than the 16 squares, but only on the top and the sides. I kept the squares even with the backer board at the bottom)

Once the squares were secure on the backer board, I drilled a hole through the chipboard at the corner of each square. I used the buttons from Joanns that you can cover with your own fabric (this was probably the hardest part of this project!!!) I strung heave cord through the back of the button, and through the hole in the chipboard, and stapled it to the back.

I then mounted the chipboard panel (with the squares attached) to the wall. Using a simple small drywall anchor and a screw. I am sure there is a way that the unit could be free standing with some modifications.

I took plain pine lumber, mitered the corners, and routed an edge on the inside edge, (similar to what a mirror frame would look like). Again, this trim is only on the top and two sides. I painted it black, and tacked it on the chipboard backer, and filled and touched up the nail holes. Mounting it this way, while making the unit incapable of furniture rearrangement, allows it to be removed fairly easily.

As an added touch, and to keep a chewing puppy from completely devouring the box spring, I built a wooden "bed skirt" frame. This proved to be an excellent addition to the style of this headboard.

I will say, that I will be disassembling this unit with in the next month or so  so if anyone wants "behind the scenes" pics of the construction, I would be happy to take some and post them once I do so.

If anyone has any questions, feel free to email me.

Wow! How very clever of you. It's awesome! Thanks for the directions. Why will you be taking it down?

Hooray, thank you! It's really pretty. Do you think it'd work to do 3 rows of 5 squares, and to use premilled molding around it rather than cutting and routing the pine?

If anyone is interested, I found a slightly different way of making one of these over at www.bejane.com/headboard/ (paraphrased and adapted here):

In order to create the ideal headboard for your room, the first thing you'll need to do is determine the size and shape it will be. You can either:
1. Use a headboard you currently own
2. Go to any local thrift store and find one to upholster that fits your bed and your style
3. The other option you have is to build your own headboard from scratch with a bit of plywood and a jigsaw
We personally prefer the third option because it allows you to create the exact shape and size you need for your particular room.
If you're creating your own, you can stick to a basic rectangular shape - but if you're up for creating something that reflects you, think outside the box and create any shape you want! For more romance why not add curves? If modern is more your style you could even try a triangle, notched side or sleek tall rectangle.
While a rectangle will be the easiest and quickest to complete, remember any shortcuts you take in choosing your shape will be one you have to live with. This really isn't rocket science so why not create a shape and style you love?!
So, to start you'll need to know a few things about your bed:
1. Width of your bed: The headboard should be slightly wider than your mattress. Don't forget - the padding and foam will add slightly to the width also (usually less than 1"). I suggest you measure your mattress and add 1-1/2" to 2" extra or you can cut it to the exact size.
2. Height of your headboard: This is up to you; first you'll want to figure out the purpose of your headboard. Are you creating it only for décor purposes, or is it also for functional purposes such as for resting against it to read a book or watch TV? If it's for function, be sure you make it tall enough so you can comfortably lean against it without your head hitting the wall!

Go Shopping!
If you're going to build your own headboard, continue on. If you've found a headboard you're ready to reupholster, you can skip down to Step 5.
Store #1: Home Improvement Retailer or Lumber Yard.
For the wood, you can use basic ¼" plywood. Any home improvement retailer will carry this. It is relatively thin and lighter than solid wood. It also comes in large sheets. Make sure you have a trunk or back seat wide enough to handle it too! If you don't most home improvement centers will make 1-2 cuts for free. Hopefully that will help it fit in your car, but make sure you don't cut it any smaller than your basic measurements. If you are going for a basic rectangular shape, the retailer should be able to cut it for you. (if there's no way you can fit the wood in your car, many home improvement retailers rent trucks hourly for a nominal fee so you can get your purchase home!).
JANE TIP: Many people get plywood and particle board confused but it's important to make sure you use plywood. The reason for this is particle board is made with a great deal of adhesive that typically releases fumes until it's fully dry. If you choose to use particle board or find your plywood is giving off odors, you may want to seal both sides with a coat of polyurethane and let it dry fully before getting started. It will need at least 24-36 hours of drying time before getting started on your headboard.
Store #2: Fabric, Foam, Craft or Upholstery Store
1. TIMESAVER: Call the store ahead of time to see what types of foam and batting they carry. You will want the foam to be at least 2" thick to make it comfortable. Have them cut the foam to the exact size of your board. If you are opting for a more decorative shape, you will need to cut the foam at home to the shape you desire.
2. Batting or Fiberfill comes in large rolls and is a thin, white gauze-like substance. The store will cut off what you need. Be sure to add at least 12 inches of batting to the length and width as you will use it to wrap around the foam and board.
3. Decide on your fabric. Keep in mind durability - it's always best to opt for a slightly thicker upholstery type fabric (for strength and you also don't want to be able to see through to the foam). Otherwise, your options are wide open! Just like with the batting,be sure to add at least 12 inches to the length and width of the fabric.
Cut Your Foam
Lay the foam on the ground and place the cut plywood or your "recycled" headboard on top of it. Then trace the shape using a black marker onto the foam. Go ahead and cut the shape out using a utility knife. If you are using a 2-3" foam or greater you may want to use an electric carving knife to cut it.

Cut your Fiberfill
Whether you opted for a basic rectangle or a decorative shape, you'll want to cut the fiberfill with at least 5 to 6 inches of batting to wrap around the foam and plywood.

Where it all comes together
To put you new headboard together you'll need a large, clean, flat work surface (the floor works fine). Here are the steps to follow:
1. Place the fabric on your work surface front side down.
JANE TIP: It's a good idea to iron your fabric prior to completing this portion of the project to remove any wrinkles or creases creating a more professional looking headboard.
2. Place the batting on top of the fabric.(This should be the same size as the fabric.) Lay the foam on top of the batting. Now place the plywood on top of all of it. You should now have all 4 layers sandwiched together. Be sure to line up the foam and plywood, and have plenty of fabric and fiberfill around the edges to be able to pull the two up and around the back of the plywood.
3. Begin attaching the fabric and battingover the back of the plywood and using a staple gun, begin stapling it with 1/4-inch staples every 2 inches.
JANE TIP: Begin by stapling 2 staples into the center of two opposing sides; then do the same in the top and bottom. Now flip the entire headboard, foam and fabric around to see if it is sitting where you would like it to be. If so, flip it back over and staple your way out from the center, alternating from side to side and top to bottom. If not, then just pull the few staples out that you've done and start over. If you are using a patterned fabric, be careful not pull too hard while stapling as it can throw the design off-center
4. Trim excess material and batting with scissors.

Putting it in its Place

The best hardware to secure your headboard to the wall is actually a very simple design. Flush mounts are attached to the back of your headboard and to the wall and simply slide together to create an interlocking and stable mount. After all, you don't want the headboard banging against the wall every time you move!
To install these mounts, first locate the studs on your wall behind where the headboard will be located. Attach the bottom part of the flush mounts to the wall and into the studs as wide as possible within the width of the headboard. Lean the headboard against the wall to mark the location of the receiving mount on the headboard. Take the headboard away and drill the holes for the mounts and attach facing down. Then just lift the headboard onto the wall mounts to secure (you might need a friend to help you). Finally, move your mattress and frame back against the wall and your new headboard to complete the look.
But if you dont want to mount the headboard to the wall:
you can actually make a frame with legs using 2x3s or something similar, and then have your headboard plywood on the top part, upholster that, and then you can screw/bolt your bedframe into the legs. Just make sure your legs are not out at the edge of hte headboard - ie, make headboard a few inches wider than the bed itself so the legs are sort of hidden from view.
http://dmorgen.blogspot.com/2005/06/how-to-make-upholstered-headboard.html

The way that you create a tufted headboard is the same way you create an upholstered headboard but with a few additions. Once you've finished creating the plywood base for the headboard, then create holes in it (using a 1/2" drill bit and drill) in the places where you would like to have the buttons. Then once you've upholstered the headboard, you will need to cover the number of buttons you will need with fabric (if you plan on using fabric covered buttons-you can get these at your local fabric store or Michaels). Using upholstery thread and an upholstery needle, go ahead and stitch the button on but leave both ends loose on the back side of the headboard. Pull the thread through at least 3 times then once you've done this, it's time to tuft. The way you do this is with either a brad (headless nail) or a few toothpicks. What you'll need to do is to lay the nail or tooth picks across the opening and pull the thread taught, tying it in a knot over nail. Just make sure you take a look at how taught it is on the face of the headboard before you tie the knot as it's really a pain to have to untie it. Then just repeat the process as many times as the number of buttons you have. Good luck!

All it is really is literally drilling small holes in the wood and then getting buttons with "eyes" to thread the buttons with heavy thread(there is actually tufting thread you can purchase!). Make sure to mark with chalk where the holes are so dont make many holes in the fabric. Thread the button, feed the thread thru the fabric, batting, foam. Locate hole and pull it thru the back to the desired amount of tuft. Tie it off like you would tie a shoe and then knot it tight. There you go.

oceanna. We are moving in January. Sadly, it won't fit in the new house, because the master is on the third floor, and the roof is slanted..

Of course, the fact that it doesn't fit means I can redecorate!!! WOO HOOOO.

I hope you love your new place and I can't wait to see what you do there with the decor!

Oh thank you. We are very excited. It's in the historic distric of our state capital. It is an old house with allof that old house charm, but had a lot of really modern updates, so it has sort of a contemporary feel. Kind of hard to explain, but should be LOADS of fun to decorate!!!!

mrstan, that's one of my favorite kinds of houses--when there's a really well-informed dialogue between older and newer--sometimes it can go horribly astray, but when it's done right it's just magical, tells a story, gets the viewer/inhabitant involved actively, etc...

I'm still amazed--am I reading it right that you covered each of those squares individually? I thought for sure you covered a big space then stitched down the squares somehow, as tufting is usually done. Kudos for all that labor-intense work...maybe you can use three of the four rows?? It's so modular, you could make it work in a different way, I would think...