There are a couple of things I'd think about.

You'll want to consider how much hip room you need when you're standing at the cooktop. If you put a 30" cooktop on a 36" drawer stack that goes right into the corner, you'll only have 3-6" of hip room on your left.

In general, I think avoiding a corner cabinet is a good thing. They waste a lot of space, even the super susans.

Another thing to consider is opening a full depth drawer in front of that doorway. Would it make more sense to have a 24" cabinet with shelves there?

Most canadians don't bother with a GD under the sink. Which do you think would be more practical in a 30" sink cab 2 30" deep drawers, or 2 15" po?

I may be misunderstanding this question, but sinks have the P-trap, valves, etc. underneath. We don't have a garbage disposal, but there is still not room for 2 drawers underneath. 1 would even be iffy, especially a deep one.

I couldn't understand where the stove was, but then I saw you plan to span 2 cabinets with the cooktop. I don't think you can center a cooktop over 2 drawer cabs, as the cooktop sets down into the cabinet. You will lose the top drawer in 2 cabinets to do this, if it's structurally practical at all.

Thanks ladies. The IKEA sale is starting in a couple of weeks and I swear I'm buying this time.

I was originally planning on Plan B with the 15, 30, 24" drawer configuration but it seemed like the drawers cabs were too narrow to be really practical. The induction cooktop is only 2" thick and installation directions say drawer bottom has to be at least 2-3" below the cooktop. The IKEA drawers are 2 full width deep drawers and 2 ½ width shallow drawers on the top. I haven't checked yet with the fellow that is going to install them to see if it is possible but I think spanning the cooktop over the 2 drawer stacks would work.; the cooktop would be in the same place but I would have wider deep drawers. The only problems I saw were that that 36" drawers might be awkward to open in a small space and that since I was planning on buying the shaker style door, drawers that size and proportions might look silly. If I use 2 30" then I have 9" left over. Is this too small? I could reduce eat-in area by 3" and make it a 12" po but the eat-in area is already very tight.

I have so very little storage space I can't afford to have cabinets that don't have good access. I remember you saying Rhome that you weren't happy with the back access cabinet on your peninsula. Does this mean that you think a lazy susan would give me better storage/sq inch?

I don't have a peninsula, and haven't for some time, so I think you must be remembering a quote from someone else. Years ago, when I did have a cab that opened under the bar overhang, I thought it was fine. The phone was nearby and I used it for phone books, the kids coloring books, etc. I have mixed emotions about lazy susans. If you need the space, they offer it, but they're deep and I would recommend blocking off the back corner so that things don't fall off into it. They're not great for everything, but do hold a lot, and have room for large items.

The kitchen area in this space seems very cramped to me, especially with those two doors opening directly into your work triangle, and there is not a lot of countertop for prep. You could remedy this in various ways:

Keep a similar layout but put in a smaller sink and install a range instead of separate cook-top and wall oven(s);

Steal some space from the eating area. If the dining room is right next door how big an eat-in area do you need in the kitchen? You could probably get away with a much smaller eat-in space to get more kitchen space. Maybe leave room just for a bistro table; or build in a banquette or have an island with stools, or shift that peninsula over and put stools there. Or nix the peninsula and run cabinets to the end of that wall where the cook-top will be and move the sink along there. Then you'd have a straight run of countertop between your sink and cook-top instead of a corner (and no wasted cabinet space!). That would still give you room for a table or banquette in the rear corner (top right in the drawing) of the room.

What if you flipped the two areas and put the kitchen area on the right? Then you would not have the traffic flow from the hall door to the DR door going through your work triangle. Could you close off the door to the hall and make the doorway to the DR wider? Not completely open plan but a larger cased opening?

Hmm, I don't like either of the two layouts much, and I am a peninsula lover. It just seems that with an 11' x 16' space, it shouldn't be so cramped. And yet, an 8' wide table space is crampy, I think.

Will the DW be housed in some kind of cabinet, or will it have some kind of paneling over the back and open side to match the rest of the peninsula cabs? I don't know if that will work, especially if you have a heavy countertop material. You might need a cabinet on the other side of DW.

It's hard to tell, even in the old thread, how big all the windows are at the end of the kitchen. Do you have two sliders at that end, plus a really wide window? How far from the floor does that big wide window go? Seems like this space should be more useable somehow!

Oh, I do see something in the old thread where bmorepanic referred to getting rid of one of the sliders...I think that's a good idea. I would possibly turn the other slider into a single door rather than a double slider; that will get you some deeper useable space near the wall. Anyone remember that small kitchen a couple years ago where they did that? Seemed to work well.

If you're going to stick w/ the peninsula plan, what about getting rid of the slider on the fam room side of the kitchen? You'd have more room for a longer bank of cabs where you have the cooktop; instead of a table, have an overhang, which would take up less space. Sorry it's too late for me to draw; I need some sleep!

The sliders are 5 feet and the large window is 16" off the floor so a banquette is difficult. I planned originally on removing the load bearing wall between kitchen and family room and the non-load bearing wall between kitchen and hallway. I gave up on that plan for a variety of reasons and decided to minimize costs by making minimal structural changes to my existing floor plan. I figure with IKEA modules if I'm still here in a few years I can change things then. In the mean time I'm just trying to get the most "bang for my buck".

I suppose what I should have asked is what drawer size is most practical, which sizes don't work out well and which provides more efficient storage the drawer cabinet or lazy susan in the corner.
Thanks for your help Donaldsq. The one thing that I did change from existing plan was to take out the stove and put in a cooktop. I don't have a big impressive pro style range and I've always hated that view of a regular stove from the front hallway.
Thanks for the heads up on the dishwasher cab Scootermom. I think it is just a panel and not a full cabinet. I'll check tomorrow.
I'm sorry Rhome; it was Buehl that put in the back access cab for her dog food instead of a lazy susan.