What about a large single bowl sink? You could get a huge/deep single bowl that will easily fit the cabinet.

I am having a 27" sink base, and I just ordered the Blanco silgranit single bowl undermount. It is as wide, deep, and long as I found - there may be others in stainless, I didn't look at stainless. I'm actually a little concerned because it is 20.75" deep, and my cabinets are 24" , so that leave 3.5" for the faucet.

Here is a link that might be useful: Sink - Black

lovlilynne
That was my sink choice. Does it appear small are you happy with it? How about color or pictures. TIA Kim

LovLiLynne...add another 1.25" for overhang and you have 25.25" to work with. However, most fabricators set the sink back 3 or 4 inches from the edge of the counter (mine is set back 4").

Question: Is the 20.75" the total depth of the sink or the interior? If total, then some of that will be under the countertop and will not "count" as part of the interior/visible depth. If it is the overall or total depth, then assuming you have a 1" rim all around, that means the interior depth is probably 18.75"... (Just checked, the interior of your sink is 18.75")

25.25" - 3.5" strip = 21.75"
21.75" - 18.75" = 3"

You will effectively have 3" of space behind your sink for your faucet. But, if you plan a tiled or granite BS, then subtract the thickness of the tile + backing or granite from that 3".

You also want to be sure you've picked a faucet whose handle will fit & work its full range in that space as well. Faucets like the Vinnata allow you to mount the handle in front, thus allowing you to put the handle where it will not be obstructed by the back wall.

Note: If your sink is in front of a window down to the counter, you will gain an inch or two due to the "recess" of the window...but don't count all of that toward handle space since you don't want the handle to hit the glass!

OTOH, if your sink is in front of a window that's raised above the countertop, then you will probably have to subtract the sill overhang from the 3" (but then you won't have to subtract the BS since it will be included in the sill depth....it certainly won't stick out past the window sill. Unless, of course, the window has no sill.)

If you have a deeper than normal sink, I recommend you either increase your overall counter depth on that run by 3" or do a 3" or 6" bumpout of your sink cabinet.

This all probably sounds very complicated.

My advice to all of you is to mock up your sink and associated fixtures well before counter template.

• Get a piece of plywood or heavy-duty cardboard and cut it to the size of your sink cabinet + countertop.

Then, place your sink template on the plywood, be sure to leave a 3-1/2 to 4 inch strip in front of the template.
Next, place your faucet, soap dispenser, air switch, instant hot faucet, filtered faucet, etc. where you want them.
Cut holes in the plywood/cardboard and "mount" the fixtures.
Is there room not only to have the fixtures, but also room to manipulate them?

Quite a while ago, probably 12 - 18 months ago, someone posted a picture of their mocked up sink & fixtures...all mounted on plywood. I wish I could remember who it was. (Does anyone else remember or have a clipping of the post & picture?)

Kiminne... If it helps, the interior dimensions of the large bowl of my double-bowl sink are 21-3/8" x 18-3/4"...very close to yours. I can fit a lot in that bowl...including all my pots, pans, & cookie sheets. Here are a couple of "sink in action" pics to give you...

Kiminne - I haven't installed my sink yet (just ordered it), so sorry, no pictures.

Buehl - that was extremely helpful (as usual). Thanks! I have been really concerned about the space issue, and I'm spacially challenged, so trying to figure it out in my head.

I knew about the 1.5" overhang of the CT, but the cabinet is still 24", so the sink has to be right up against the front of the cabinet in order to have 3.5" for the faucet, and that would only leave the 1.5" overhang in front. It *is* under a window - currently there is a sill, but we are replacing that window, so I don't know if I can get it "sill-less" (or even if I want to, because the current sill sticks out farther than the current backsplash. BTW, I'm not having a backsplash - not that it matters if I have the sill issue.

I've already ordered this sink - even though I was a little concerned about the dimensions, I figured that they wouldn't sell it if it didn't fit in a standard 25.5" CT, but now I am wondering if I should cancel it. I've also ordered my faucet, which has a deck, but someone here on the KF told me that they had their deck faucet installed without the deck. Originally I didn't want a deck, but I kind of like this one - I think it adds to the faucet style. I couldn't find the depth of the deck, but it doesn't look to be more than 1.5".

Oh boy, this is what I was concerned about with ordering all this stuff - I posted http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/kitchbath/msg0510401716413.html

Lynne

Here is a link that might be useful: faucet

With the faucet you linked, I don't think the sill will be an issue since the handles are fairly low and should be below the sill. It's when you have a faucet w/the handles mounted on the top or sides of the main faucet stem that the sill becomes an issue.

How high off the counter will the sill be? Have you thought about using your countertop material for the sill (unless it's laminate...then I think I'd stick w/wood for the sill.)

Thanks again Buehl. That is good to know - after I posted my last note, I got an email saying my sink had shipped, so it is too late to cancel the order.

My sill is currently 3" from the counter to the bottom of the sill. I had not thought of using my CT material for the sill - I am getting soapstone, so that would work. Do you mean to have the window at counter level?

TIA,

Lynne

I went through a similar set of calculations and frets over my sink and faucet. I had my sink pulled forward as far as possible and have 3" of counter in front, a slightly negative -- looks about neutral reveal, and got a little over 4 inches in the back for the faucet. I wanted a faucet with a single side lever and DH didn't want the handle in front, so we went through a lot of checking and double checking. It was very close, but one of the things that made it work was changing the wooden sill that stuck out beyond the bit of wall beneath it to a marble sill to match the counters and ending flush with the splash tile. It's a great place to not have wood or tile and grout. ;-)

Hi - I just wanted to follow up on this discussion. Today I had the templating done for the soapstone, and the guy said I didn't have enough space behind my sink for my faucet. He says that they need 4", and I was going to have ~2". I didn't take into account that there are these 1/2" braces inside the back and front of the cabinet, so you really don't have 24" depth. He is actually going to cut off the front of my sink (the lip) and we are going to take off the back brace of the cabinet to make it fit. I'm not sure how I feel about that - he sounded pretty confident, but I realize that I'm screwing up my warranty on the sink as well as doing something non-standard with the cabinet. I wish I had known that it wouldn't fit in a 24" deep cabinet. I guess that's why they call it a prep sink - it must only fit on an island.

Lynne

I found the thread I mentioned in my earlier post. Unfortunately, too late for you Lovlilynne! I'm sorry about your sink...I guess my calculations were off by an inch, but it sounds like even the 3" I thought you had would not have been enough. Again, I'm sorry!

For those who would like to see an example of mocking up a sink & faucet setup, see Cloud_Swift's post showing how she did it in the thread linked below.

Here is a link that might be useful: Thread: show me your faucet set up with undermount sinks

Hey Buehl - the issue is of all my making! I commented on this thread *after* I had already ordered the sink, so it was already too late to take advantage of all the good advice here. I measured, I had DH measure, and we thought we were good - it's the unknowns that always get you. I just hope that I don't regret the modifications I have to make.

Lynne

Hi, soapstone was installed yesterday, and the fabricator got my sink to fit. This picture is with just the holes, I'll try to take another one once the temporary faucett is installed, but this gives you an idea of how it looks. It is a little tight in the back, but at least it all fit without modification to the sink!

Update? :-)

I'm curious to see how everything is working out....

When they put the old faucet back in the sink, the plumber had to rig it with putty and a c-clamp so that it doesn't leak, but it's still leaking below. It works, but it looks awful. I ordered a cheap, temporary faucet since mine is on back order for 3-4 months, and I hope that will go in late next week. The window is also not in, so I was waiting to take pictures of the sink with the faucet and the window to give a true picture.

But, to answer your question - it's fine right now. The only thing - and I don't think this is related in anyway to the space (but certainly let me know if you think it is) is that there is A LOT of spray - it seems like when I put anything into the stream of water, it splashes all over the sink and the sides. Is there some trick I am missing with have a sink that is much deeper than my previous sink? Or is it just the spray of the sink needs to be adjusted? I figured I'd deal with it after the temporary faucet got installed - if it still does it.

Showing off my Swanstone sink US2215- single bowl 21 1/4 x 25 wide. Perfect. 9' deep

Here is a link that might be useful:

Be sure you put keep things inside the sink bowl when you put them under the stream of water. It seems like a no-brainer, but if you're used to a low profile standard faucet and putting things close to the faucet head & still have them inside the sink, you may find yourself doing that w/the higher faucets but things are no longer inside! I know I did! That resulted in a lot of splashing all over! There's still some splashing, but not nearly as much.

If the splashing occurs when the water is just going into the sink, it may be your faucet is missing the drain...I find that when the stream of water hits the drain hole there's less splashing than if it hits the bottom of the sink only.

The other thing is that the deeper the sink the more splashing there seems to be...it may be the gravity thing...longer distance for water to travel & picking up speed as it travels from the faucet to the sink bottom... High-arc faucets add to that! (Although, the water has to travel up the longer stem & it loses speed...so when it comes out it regains the speed it lost first & then more... Too much thinking!)

Ok, I've owed this picture. They put in the window last Wednesday, but not the bottom trim until Friday, and I painted it Saturday: