Don't pay the guy? I mean, you haven't paid him in full for the job, right? If you've paid him, then your leverage is pretty small. You can call him back out to do the job correctly, but it doesn't sound like he knows how to do the job correctly. Your best bet might be to make a stink and get enough refunded that you engage an actual stone professional to come and repair the situation for you. This guy is an idiot and ought to not ever touch another stone counter again.

Sounds like a clown.

You can add some framing in the cabinet to hold the sink after the fact without tearing to much up.
Even 1x2 strips side to side in the cabinet will help.
make sure they are far enough away from the drain the GD can be removed.

My granite guy uses 1/4-20 bolts in keyhole shaped slots in the bottom of the granite (bolt heads fit in the slot, nuts hold the clips).

Liwe_wire_oak,

Thanks for your reply. I just took a look in the cabinet and there is actually one clip (but only one), in the back of the small bowl, where there is a lot of clearance between the cabinet wall and the sink wall. There doesn't seem to be enough clearance to insert the clips in the front or on the side of the bowls. In the back of the big bowl, there is enoug clearance for the clips but I don't know if a drill could squeeze in the space. Could this be why they weren't put in?

You need to realize that there is a lot of "conventional" wisdom on this board that will offer the standard answer. Nothing wrong with that but sometimes you need to go further. I think you should see where the flange of the sink rests before you try and have someone in to re-do or demand your money back. We have a very tight clearance with our sink cabinet and sink. The flange on our sink actually rests on the cabinet frame. No room for clips. They then used silicone adhesive. That sink is going nowhere. So before you go further, just take a look and see where the flange is and if it is resting on the base.

Just an aside about silicone adhesive. We had a 32 inch round table top cut from the same slab as our counter to use as a top on a cast iron french bistro base. I asked the installers if I should drill the top, insert threaded studs and then screw the base to the top. They said, skip the effort and just silicone the table top to the base. I was leery about this but it works and i can pick the top up and the base goes right with it and it weighs about 50 lbs. I even picked the table up and held it with the base perpendicular to the floor. Held like a charm. No movement. This is the most abuse that table is going to get over it's lifetime so I have no fears of that granite top coming off.

If you fill that sink completely with water, the water would weigh about 200 lbs. I don't think it is acceptable that your installer would install it such that you cannot use it the way you wish.

The pros above have given you good info. One school of thought on this board is to use a product called the Sink Setter to support the sink, which looks great, but must be installed before the countertops are. There is a commercial product that does what LWO suggests, namely, provide the needed support after the installation. The link is provided below.

No doubt Kevin will be along momentarily to inform me that I am not qualified to give this advice.

Here is a link that might be useful: post-facto sink support

I found the Sink Setter main page here:
http://www.sinksetter.com/

It's priced about $35 on Amazon. It's on my radar in case I run into this problem (I'm having a largish sink in a 33" cabinet base)

Can anyone comment on what factors would go into whether to choose their "Front to Back" model vs the "Side to Side" model? Do you think it would depend on cabinet width? Sink type?

Thanks!
Lee

modelage you have to know more before you apply a solution. Either a sink setter or a piece of wood crossbar. Clips, maybe.