First thought is you'll need a header above those windows which are going to eat up a lot space you would like to be glass. There is no shortcut for this. Since you don't have molding up, the cabinets should be pretty straight forward to take down and allow you to put the header in the wall behind them. You're going to have to pull and possibly replace some of the exterior Hardi siding, but since it's probably just been painted, it shouldn't be that bad either. This is going to make someone unhappy (like the person who just installed the siding and cabinets), but if you don't do this now, you'll wonder about it forever and eventually attempt it in the future when it will be harder to do. Don't go any further until you pu this to bed. There're a lot of pics on the web of similar installations. This is not my house, search for windows under cabinets images.

This post was edited by lkbum on Sat, Jan 10, 15 at 9:00

Those are going to be ultra expensive to do (labor wise) and you are going to have to restructure that wall.

The studs that are in that wall will have to be removed and a proper header put in place.

Given the likelihood that there is electrical, plumbing, etc. in that wall and on those studs, it will require the entirety of the walls to be opened (i.e. remove cabinets, counter tops, etc.).

I think you are a day late and dollar short on the planning of this part. If it were done on the front end, no big deal.

To retro it now...uber expensive.

If electrical and plumbing are clear, you can sawzall through the existing studs, place a header and insert jack studs pretty easily. But given the Dishwasher(?) under window #1, WOW is probably correct. Maybe a Solar tube through the upper cabinets with a diffuser on the bottom of the cabinets?

Ikbum, below window #1 is an Advantium speedcook oven, not a dishwasher. Also, since there's ~21" of clearance between bottom of cabinets and the countertop, I thought 1' high windows would give enough room for a header to be installed without having to remove the upper cabinets.

I was thinking that the dilemma was mostly how to install the jack studs without disturbing the base cabinets. We will have to remove the siding all the way down to the sill won't we?

Are there tricks to removing cutting away at already installed siding so that we can avoid matching seems when we patch it back up?

Windowsonwashington, I'm curious as to why you think the base cabinets will have to be removed. Couldn't we just work on stud work from the exterior side of the wall?

Moreover, as for jack/cripple studs, if there's enough room for a header immediately below the upper cabinets, do you think it's possible to cut out a hole on the interior side that is just about large enough for the window?

I'm thinking most of the demolition (shudder*) will be contained to the exterior side of the wall. Are there tips and tricks--however small-- to removing hardie plank siding that's been installed with both BLIND and FINISH nails and reinstalling so that seems don't match up?

You can reduce the size of your header with an engineered beam, but I would think you're still looking at 8" to 10". I would want a splash of 2" to 4" between the counter and window which leaves you with roughly an 11" opening and a small glass area.. I think that size and placment might look a little off. If you go with all structural mods from the outside, you will have freedom to put the header, jackstuds and eventual window where you want. You will have to strip the exterior wall to do this including sheathing. You are going to tear up your exisitng hardiplank when you do, especially with the way it is nailed. Depending on when your house was built, your Sheetrock may also be glue to your studs and may get ripped when studs are cut and removed. As WOW said, this could get really labor intensive in a hurry. I would sketch what I wanted, get a pro out and size up job.

You need to figure out the size of header you need. If you have the space you could do it from the inside, removing the base would make things a lot easier but could be done in place. I'd frame it in leaving sheathing and siding in place. Drill holes in corners of framed opening to outside, make marks cut siding and sheathing. Place window where it will sit and mark where casing would be. Cut siding trying not to damage vapor barrier. Set window, flash, install drip cap and casing . the wall will need to be supported till header is in. I like windows sitting flush with counter if the back splash allows. May have to look at different header options to keep the size of window optimal.

Its all doable and coming from the outside would be the least invasive.

It is a good bit of work.

Here's a solution that may give you what you want. No header and straight forward provided no electrical or plumbing in the way. Put individual panes between the existing studs. If you are on 16" centers, you could install a 12" wide pane without adding a header. You could cut sheetrock, toenail upper and lower support. Cut the outside as Toddinmn suggested. Case in for a fixed pane. Finish the out side as a single unit. Just a thought. See sketch

Something like this might look unique. Integrated into a back splash.

TODDINMN, the strategy I was thinking pretty much aligns with yours. I think leaving the base cabinets in place would be possible (has to be as we are definitely not tearing out our beautifully installed granite countertops for this project) but how would you install the jack studs and cripple studs without removing the exterior wall from top plate to sill plate? I guess it goes without saying that framing without disturbing the base cabinets and countertop would entail siding and tar paper removal all the way from the top plate to the sill, right? Tar paper installation and hardie plank siding installation is pretty straightforward. The main concern is removal and reinstallation of the siding so that seams don't match up. Any tricks or tips?

IKBUM, holy batman thank you very much for the idea! , Despite all that staring at the kitchen and brainstorming for longer than anyone normal person would, the idea never occurred to me.

ahould be pretty doable from the exterior. It is commonplace on window cut-ins to work from one side with little disturbance to the other.
The siding will be tricky though, as fiber cement can be difficult to remove in one piece. I'd mark each piece (label by letter of number) in attempt to reassemble in the same locations. Then have ample extra material to replace those pieces that are damaged in the process.

"With the kitchen now essentially done with its reconfiguration, I'm left hankering for more of the wonderful southern exposure it used to get a little more of. I'm thinking I would like to add some wide but short windows "

Why didn't you do this when you remodeled???

hmmmm

lmao, I love that cat!! (really surprised wow missed the opportunity to post the same picture)

The header should be figured out first, this would partialy determine if it could be done from the inside.Where the existing studs are would also play a roll if it could be done from the inside.