Hello S B, There
are more than 10 orchid societies in the Sydney Metropolitan area. They include
Australian Native Orchid Societies, A Cymbidium Orchid Society, A species
Orchid Society and the remainder are General Orchid Societies where the
members try to grow everything. Sadly, I think Phalaenopsis are easier to grow
in nice Centrally heated homes in Northern USA.

Google NSW Orchid
Society for Society addresses and orchid show

Dates.

Outside would have
been a death zone in the two weeks of deluge and the following week with the
Arid Westerly wind blowing.

Currently in this
room it is 21.4 C and humidity is 50%. Provided I can keep a plant eating pussy
tat at bay. I might see a bloom towards the end of winter.

Here are some notes
written for the Sydney, Area

Phalaenopsis
Culture

These
notes relate to Phalaenopsis culture in the Sydney area. These orchids cannot be
grown outside in the yard or in a shade-house because winter minimum
temperatures are too low and some summer maximum temperatures are too high. These
temperature problems plus low humidity mean that special housing to meet Phalaenopsis needs is
required, or the plants should be grown inside your home.

Culture
within the home

Finding
the right place to put the plant. Your
plant needs bright light, humidity levels of about 60% and temperatures where
both you and the plant will be comfortable. That rules out one place that is
often suggested, the bathroom. Another place that is not good is one of those
small closed in sunrooms where dry winter air is heated and the humidity levels
are too low. My plants are on the windowsill of a large airy kitchen. Winter
temperatures range from 12C to 18C each day and a fibreglass blind protects the
plants from all but a few hours of gentle sun in winter. Do not expose the
plant to harsh direct sunlight because the leaves of the plant will burn. Early
morning sun is best, but late afternoon sun is also OK provided it is screened
as described above.

Humidity

Some
people recommend spraying the plants with water every day to raise humidity.
This is not necessary because the humidity level in most homes is about 60%.
You may wish to place the plant on a humidity tray containing pebbles and
water. This is not necessary either, but will not cause harm, provided the
bottom of the pot is not sitting in water.

Watering

Frequency
depends on the potting material and the atmosphere in the house but as a
general guide once a week in winter grading to two or three times a week in
summer. Potting material should be kept moist but not sopping wet. Make sure no
water is left sitting in the crown of the plant for an extended period, as the
plant may rot. Use a tissue to soak up excess water.

Fertilizing

Use
complete liquid fertilizer with every third watering, but only at half the
prescribed strength. Wet the foliage as well.

Repotting

Every
two years in late spring. Use specially prepared orchid bark, not Cymbidium
mix. Try not to disturb the roots too much and just replace some of the older
bark. Do not be in hurry to put the plant in a larger pot, because like most
orchids, the plants seem to do better in a slightly pot-bound condition. Do not
worry about some roots growing outside the pot. That is a good sign.

Treatment
of flowering stem

When
the flowers are nearly finished, you can cut the stem off just below the lowest
flower and the plant may produce a new flowering shoot from the node just below
the cut. BUT,
note that most experienced growers cut the stem off at the base so the plant
will put all its energy into growing new leaves, and therefore will produce
better flowers next time.

Making
the plant flower

The
plant should produce a new flowering stem in late autumn as the temperatures
drop. Some growers induce flowering by watering the plant with Epsom salts
(Magnesium Sulfate) once a week several times in autumn. The amount of Epsom
salts required is one tablespoon full in a bucket of water.

Pests
and diseases

Your
plant should remain pest and disease free in the home environment. Fungal
disease which shows up as black spots on the leaves is a symptom of
over-watering. Cut back on the watering a bit and seek help from a nursery
orgarden centre if the problem persists. Phalaenopsis are also susceptible to
mealy bugs, which are small, white, fluffy looking bugs that live on the
undersides of leaves or between the leaf bracts on the central stem. Use either
White Oil or Pyrethrum to remove these pests. More than one application may be
required, so if you see another bug, spray again. If you use White Oil, make
sure to move the plant out of direct sunlight for a few days otherwise the
leaves may burn.